Check Engine Light

Address 01: Engine Labels: Redir Fail!
Part No SW: 4E0 910 552 A HW: 4E0 907 552
Component: 5.2L V10/4V FSI ª0040
Revision: 5AH11— Serial number: AUX3Z0F9709393
Coding: 01060009190F0160
Shop #: WSC 02120 444 92496
VCID: A045A51B7352D63ECB-80F4

2 Faults Found:
008585 - Bank 2; System too Lean at Idle
P2189 - 004 - - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100100
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 159791 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2016.03.04
Time: 08:19:40

         Freeze Frame:
                RPM: 590 /min
                Load: 14.1 %
                Speed: 3.0 km/h
                Temperature: 90.0°C
                Temperature: 10.0°C
                Absolute Pres.: 970.0 mbar
                Voltage: 13.843 V

006435 - Please Check DTC Memory of ECU Number 2
P1923 - 008 -
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 159831 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2016.03.05
Time: 20:59:22

         Freeze Frame:
                RPM: 0 /min
                Load: 0.0 %
                Speed: 0.0 km/h
                Temperature: 78.0°C
                Temperature: 41.0°C
                Absolute Pres.: 980.0 mbar
                Voltage: 11.049 V

Readiness: 0000 0000

Address 11: Engine II Labels: Redir Fail!
Part No SW: 4E0 910 552 A HW: 4E0 907 552
Component: 5.2L V10/4V FSI ª0040
Revision: 5AH11— Serial number: AUX3Z0F9709393
Coding: 01060009190F0160
Shop #: WSC 02120 444 92496
VCID: A045A51B7352D63ECB-80F4

2 Faults Found:
004229 - Mixture Regulation; Bank 4; Range 1
P1085 - 004 - Lean Limit Exceeded - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100100
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 159776 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2016.03.03
Time: 16:21:23

         Freeze Frame:
                RPM: 652 /min
                Load: 18.4 %
                Speed: 0.0 km/h
                Temperature: 90.0°C
                Temperature: 24.0°C
                Absolute Pres.: 980.0 mbar
                Voltage: 14.224 V

004225 - Mixture Regulation; Bank 3; Range 1
P1081 - 004 - Lean Limit Exceeded - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100100
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 159791 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2016.03.04
Time: 08:19:34

         Freeze Frame:
                RPM: 582 /min
                Load: 14.9 %
                Speed: 0.0 km/h
                Temperature: 90.0°C
                Temperature: 10.0°C
                Absolute Pres.: 970.0 mbar
                Voltage: 13.843 V

So from my understanding this could be a vacuum leak, a maf sensor issue or a o2 sensor. what is the best way to check a vacuum leak? can I switch the maf’s from side to side to see if it goes from bank3/4 to bank 1/2? If it is the o2 sensor how do I know if it is pre/post cat and which cat is it on?

Thanks

Most likely a vacuum leak.

Try a few things like this:

  1. With the engine running at idle, try to open the oil fill cap. If it will not come off because it feels like it is being sucked into the engine or if the engine then stalls right away as you pull the oil fill cap off then the PCV valve/oil separator is likely bad.
  2. Get a can of carb cleaner or starting fluid. With the engine running at idle, go into 11-Engine electronics 2, measuring value blocks, channel 33 for short term fuel trims. Spray the carb cleaner or starter fluid around intake manifold, PCV valve/oil separator, throttle bodies, and the top of the engine while watching for the fuel trims to go really negative (like -20%). If you find a spot where you can spray the fluid and the fuel trims go really negative then you have found the vacuum leak.

So the oil cap is hard to pull out but I can still do it with one hand. I’m assuming the issue isn’t my pcv. I’ll try the carb cleaner here in a couple days.

The oil cap should come off without much effort if the engine running at idle just like if the engine was off. I would take the PCV off and pop the black cap off the back to see if the diaphragm is torn. It likely is and you probably need a new one.

Ok I’ll pop that off tonight and take a look. Thanks guys I’ll report back

Jimmy gave great advice as usual. I would try the oil cap as thats the best way to check without a lot of work.

It probably is a vac leak and it should be on the driver side. Try to spray the starter fluid around like jimmy said but what you can do is to spray it along the intake where the intake meets the heads and see if you hear the idle of the car jump up.

The other thing that really points at a vac leak is that all this was at idle. At idle the car is at its highest point of vac on the motor unless your on de accel.

I’ll try both. I know getting the pcv off tonight is easy to do. Stopping at the auto parts store to get carb cleaner not so much.

Is this the correct part # of the pcv: 079103464D ?

Thanks Justin.

Yeah it is so much easier to get the PCV off on a V10 than a V8. It is like cheating, especially when compared to the RS4s.

According to ECS the part number is 079103464D so yes you have to correct part number. I use ECS to get part numbers and then buy from somewhere else because they have been selling OEM parts for dealership parts counter list prices as of late. Which is way too much!

part ordered. Will report back once installed.

Check back and let us know.

So my oil separator comes tomorrow but I was curious if anyone has tried this:

http://vanos-bmw.com/membrane-for-oil-separator-vag-07c103464-vag-079103464

I’m tempted to get a 1 time use CC and order one up to see what happens with the one I’m taking out.

I highly doubt it but that does look interesting!

Looked through the rest of the stuff that they sell and some of it is pretty cool. They seem to be based out of Moscow Russia. I would guess that is why it seems like their English is not the best. Regardless some of the stuff that they sell looks like it would work.

I dont think that one will fit but the one that might fit would be the V6 FSI one. Might check that out. They all look to be close to the same size and I cant see the overall size being too much different between the units but it would be kinda expensive to find out

But for $25-35 and versus just throwing my old separator away. Just trying to decide if I trust the Russian site enough to order from.

When you put it like that. It actually makes a buntch of great sense

all went well. It was a little tough to get the bolts it with the manifold on but doable. After a day of driving the check engine light is off.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160324/3faf6ae51d4d35840cc4bab5d34b52f2.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160324/3733360d42db9f9ccabaa87a24b037d4.jpg

This little tear is the cause of the issue.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160324/29876c8901fef5b7ba2f9614c68a05fc.jpg

Good that you found the problem. Did you get the Russian diaphragm?

I have been seeing a lot of VWs and Audis with bad PCV valves for years now. That along the secondary air injection emissions systems are the two engine issues that VW/Audi can’t get right.

I didn’t. I got the full oem one from fcp. I found vanos on eBay so that seems/feels a little more legit. I’m just trying to find a way for us all to save some money.

That little tear can cause such a huge issue. Greta job for reporting back that should be very helpful for the future people looking.

Great info!