Might be good to consider both of them.
The 5R is going to be more track friendly and they hold strong. Seems like the holding isnt the issue but the constant harsh conditions of running the car.
It is possible that West could fuse the R-series clutch. I still think that it is the best option for him at the moment.
If West is willing to do it then I would like to see a log of him getting started from a dead stop to the middle of third gear. Need to see RPMs and throttle position. That way we can see how long it takes him to change gears from first to second and from second to third while not horribly breaking most highway speed limits in CA.
Ordered the JH Motorsport 5R clutch and pressure plate. Should fix my issue.
That should definitly take care of your clutch issues. That is a more race like clutch.
Apparently the axle seals were leaking into the transmission bell housing. That was likely part of my problem. While they are in there, they will replace the slave cylinder. The labor is going to take a bit longer.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160620/2fa1cc7fac2560137f2a2bf23b0b65a8.jpg
New friction surface:
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160620/91f9c86f45d03f55b918470167239e93.jpg
Just wondering West.
How many miles on the car?
How many miles/track days on the previous clutch?
Make sure that your shop lubricates the throw-out bearing/sleeve, shift fork, shift fork pivot, and slave cylinder. The B8 cars need everything to be lubed up or else they will not want to start. It is better to change everything while you have it torn open. At least the can of worms isn’t that hateful at the moment.
Should do the stainless clutch line also while you there.
Like 44k miles and 11k miles on this clutch. It’s worn but had life in it. Will request a stainless clutch line.
The clutch line will be from USP. Something like this. It basically needs to be done when the tranny is on the floor.
yea thats the line, if you need one soon i have mine that i still need to install, just get me another.
I’m very hopeful this is the proper clutch for this car the way I use it. I don’t mind replacing the disc again in 3 years, I just don’t want it to have performance and duration issues on track. I’d be totally out of ideas on how to fix it.
Old disc and new disc
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160623/f098cd7816a74c9e87dc98faa060a916.jpg
New disc and new pressure plate
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160623/c6f5253e044caf061b7867ffaec5ca4a.jpg
Leaking axle seal
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160623/a5863bddd2b929abad434fbc6ac2a7bd.jpg
damn, tranny’s out again huh? nice looking disc!
Replacing the clutch line involes taking some shit apart near the master cylinder. Ugh.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160627/ed2dcfd838ee5b6707729ea8a979324d.jpg
oh wow. that is a lot of work.
let us know how the new clutch feels once you get it back together. thanks for the update.
Thats a serious upgrade.
Is it common for the clutch safety switch to fail during a transmission repair?
B8s are very wacky, Sometimes you have to press the pedal just a hair harder for it to register for the start. You will feel the pedal come to a stop, then just lean on it a little.
This happens on stock and aftermarket setups and to my knowledge, nobody has been able to pinpoint the direct cause.
The car is still completely driveable etc. Just have to press the pedal hard on start up for the switch to activate.
Would you want to bring the car to us to take a look at to find a resolution for this widespread issue? You are local right?
I told you to make sure that the shop lubricated the clutch components. A while ago I had to fix a local to me shop’s fuck up because they didn’t install a clutch correctly and lubricate everything.
Here is a link for you to read about it:
http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=3781.50
Fine line between letting the pros do their work and coaching them on doing something I don’t know how to do myself. But noted.