I applaud you for that statement.
While that is true, I have seen certain shops/techs that need a bit more hand holding than others.
Occasionally I do something worthy of applause on German car forums.
This clutch switch looks super complicated.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160630/9a88b2089fa76b53938173b7ca4a46be.jpg
i did a big post about how it operates on az trying to figure out my no start issue, it has 3 switches that control different functions of the car. Fun read if you wanted to learn about it. http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/684715-Have-to-almost-put-my-foot-through-the-floor-on-the-clutch-to-start-car?p=11318378&viewfull=1#post11318378
So could it be like a fluid bleed or air bubble issue with the slave cylinder line?
Not sure what the main issue was with your car, but if you said no start, did they try mashing down on the pedal to see if it did start? What needs to happen so the car will start is the master cylinder needs to detect a fully depressed pedal. From all the crap i have researched, it is coming down to there is something preventing the master to fully extend since the pressure plate wont allow further movement. What sucks is audi put no adjustment in the system, so everything regardless on tolerances is always the same for each car, but as we know there are always differences.
I had ordered a new master for my car, have not put it in yet, but i doubt it is my issue. I think the fix will be to shave off some of the slave cyl when it mounts to the tranny to give it a slight adjustment.
people just love to be told how to do their job, especially from a laymen.
Infinkc any chance you can bring that post over here for even more searching coverage. You have a lot of great posts but having that in to forums might be helpful. espically if you can make it its own thread here without all the other interuptions you had over there…Great read.
Shaving it down would make sense. The fix for some is to push hard and swift. That has worked for some in the past. if the distance was an issue that would explain some of why that method works.
Looks like we are going switch bypass.
Although the clutch safety switch is bypassed, it makes me wonder if something is wrong in the system. We replaced the slave cylinder while the transmission was out. There’s also a master clutch cylinder in a difficult to reach part of the firewall, which could be replaced. Anyone care to weigh in on whether that is worth doing? Cheap part, lots of labor.
The line has been bled 4 times to try to get all of the air out.
EDIT: we’re going to do the clutch master just to rule very possible near term future problem out. We’ll leave the safety switch disabled. This should give me a lot of wiggle room. I’ll test it on track around August 26th.
My brake-in plan is to drive it on the SF avenues through 40 stop signs, back and forth, over a month, until I put 750-1000 local miles on. Maybe that’s 4-5 tanks of gas.
I would pass on the master cylinder. There isnt a good case for changing that. The clutch switch has been an issue for others with the S5 as well. I just dont know what kind of possible issues that might give you with the bypass of the switch. I believe the car needs to see the switch trigger on and off for idle and other control. Not sure how much else would be looking for that switch.
That clutch brake in plans sound perfict. The JHM clutch is a more agressive clutch able to hold and not fade under heat. When you do the break in just remember to not slip the clutch on engagement. Lots of people tend to think engagement of the clutch slowly is more gentile and better for the clutch. This is actually the exact opposite of what you want to do. You want to let the clutch engage without any slipping. More like a quick on and off. Good for you on the break in. You dont hear enough people listening to the actual instructions on break in but that ends up being a big help on how the clutch works and lasts.
Is there a way to kill the EPC light when the clutch switch down position relay is bypassed?
electrical tape over the light ;D
Or pictures of your family/whatever. I lost count of how many cars came in with instrument clusters where I couldn’t see shit because everything was covered up.
$5000 job all in parts and labor. Ouch.
It’s just EPL and not CEL. No chimes or beeps. So easy to live with.
Pedal doesn’t quite go to the floor any more, so the travel is shorter. Clutch engages right at the bottom. No longer delays on release; seems to move 1:1 from master to slave. I like it.
Should be money well spent by the time its all said and done. Having a clutch that responds and holds really will help in track conditions. should give you more confidence now that the system is more consistant.
After a few days of driving and I know you dont do too much DD anymore with the car but you might notice issues with weired idle and maybe even some issues at the track when comming down from high speeds to take on a low speed turn that the car has rpm issues. Again you might not just be on the look out for that.
What you can do that is a good safe and smart idea. Wire the clutch down switch into the break pedal switch. This way you need to push the break to start the car and when you push the break it would be in the same fahion as when you would push the clutch. So its a win win.
I know this might be much less of an issue for you but its a big saftey thing. Because I believe now you can start the car while its in gear without hitting the clutch pedal. If you accadently have the car in gear when the starter spins up I think the car might roll forward with the starter. That can be very dangerous. And since its a push botton start you can accadently get someone other that you thats not used to the car hitting that button and your car goes jumping foward off the starter. it can really be bad
That is a good suggestion, Justin. I didn’t test whether the brake pedal safety switch is still active. I had to recharge the car’s battery so I left the motor running while I was testing the new clutch. Feels like a real sports car now. Quite naturally your shifts get much faster with a short clutch travel and low/bottom engagement point, more so than adding a short shift kit.
Curious how they bypassed, if they bypassed both the interlock and clutch signal you will have issues. They should have only bypassed the interlock switch. When at idle does your rpm rev up if you press and let go of the clutch? Another way to tell if they did it correct, does your cruise work?