Every car I’ve owned especially with aftermarket exhaust has the typical “Cold Start” loudness. It seems on my S6 that its more substantial and goes away like a valve opens or something. Is this the intake runners baffles/valves that cause the Super loudness then close after warm up? Has their been anyone that has made the Intake the baffles stick open all the time? does it help with performance?
I think what you may be referring to is the secondary air injection. It could also be on the S6 that the engine advances the cams, or something like that, during warm up. I am not sure so you’ll have to wait for the smart guys on here to respond.
If you want more growl from your S6 for cheap, then delete your stock resonators. While you are there, it wouldnt hurt to install an x-pipe (factory is an H). If you have a bit more dough to spend then go for an aftermarket exhaust. I can recommend something if that is what you want. This is the stock S6 exhaust
Gutting your cats or replacing them with a pair of downstream high flow units will also increase the sound of your exhaust. You will have to pull the engine to get to the top two, and youll need a tune after to deal with ECU alerts.
Yup cold start cycles are very loud. The car is running with a max attainable load to try and quickly warm up the car. The noise is more the car trying to warm up the cats then the actual motor. You S6 guys are kinda screwed because of your cat siuation. Unless you remove the pre cats you need to keep the cold start stuff. If you remove them jhm can make you a quiet start program
I like the Exhaust not I have now. Was just curious what this was lol. Also curious what the transformer sound from the rear is when locking or unlocking. Sounds like a fuel pump or something.
As far as exhaust had the car 2 days and deleted long resonators, installed x pipe, and replaced the stock mufflers with borla. Seemed to help a bit. Will do all new 2.5-3" when I gut the cats or have some header solution. Most likely get that done before the N20 goes on next month!
Also Just wanted to point out from my experience that the “factory H-Pipe” is actually not. That’s the piece i cut out to install my Xpipe. It was a solid piece that’s why the factory sound sounds so uneven
I did as well! And yes did some racing this past Friday the car moves well from a Stop. Turning all traction and other stuff off (holding down ESP) holding brake and punching gas starts spinning rears almost then letting off break its hard to beat off the line. It would only let me do that a couple times then would kill the throttle if both were depressed lol
I thought about doing that type of launch (hold the car with the brake, and apply the throttle) but heard it would do damage to the torque converter pretty quickly. Can anyone comment?
How were your 60ft times and the 1/4, if you don’t mind sharing.
I’ve had the best luck just launching from idle. I plant my left foot on the brake. Then, when it’s time go to, I simultaneously release the brake and mash the throttle. Method I used to cut my 1.75 60’.
I tend to have a really slow 1-2 shift when I use the brake-torque technique. Doesn’t seem like the car likes it. I have a feeling it might be overheating and going into some safe mode.
Good info B. It is surprising the high percentage of expensive aftermarket exhausts that have poor design. It is like the guys designing them have no idea what they are doing.
Exactly. The single pipe idea is terrible. You want to create more low pressure transitions not build a low then high pressure siuation like with the single pipe
Do not buy ten thousand dollar headers from the guy who thinks that dumping the exhaust from both sides of the NA v10 engine into a huge, extended collector is a fantastic idea