Yup cold start cycles are very loud. The car is running with a max attainable load to try and quickly warm up the car. The noise is more the car trying to warm up the cats then the actual motor. You S6 guys are kinda screwed because of your cat siuation. Unless you remove the pre cats you need to keep the cold start stuff. If you remove them jhm can make you a quiet start program
Speaking of that S8, on an NA car does it make sense to merge the exhaust from the two sides into one giant collector, and then split them up again?
I dont think I have ever seen that done before. You would think that an X-pipe would make more sense.
yup SAI
it’s pretty heavy metal on the RS4 too.
I like the Exhaust not I have now. Was just curious what this was lol. Also curious what the transformer sound from the rear is when locking or unlocking. Sounds like a fuel pump or something.
As far as exhaust had the car 2 days and deleted long resonators, installed x pipe, and replaced the stock mufflers with borla. Seemed to help a bit. Will do all new 2.5-3" when I gut the cats or have some header solution. Most likely get that done before the N20 goes on next month!
Thanks for the replies guys!
Also Just wanted to point out from my experience that the “factory H-Pipe” is actually not. That’s the piece i cut out to install my Xpipe. It was a solid piece that’s why the factory sound sounds so uneven
Good to know about that connecting bar not being hollow. I just assumed it was an H pipe.
And, did you say N2O is going on next month? Awesome! Definitely looking forward to seeing how that progresses.
I did as well! And yes did some racing this past Friday the car moves well from a Stop. Turning all traction and other stuff off (holding down ESP) holding brake and punching gas starts spinning rears almost then letting off break its hard to beat off the line. It would only let me do that a couple times then would kill the throttle if both were depressed lol
I thought about doing that type of launch (hold the car with the brake, and apply the throttle) but heard it would do damage to the torque converter pretty quickly. Can anyone comment?
How were your 60ft times and the 1/4, if you don’t mind sharing.
I’ve had the best luck just launching from idle. I plant my left foot on the brake. Then, when it’s time go to, I simultaneously release the brake and mash the throttle. Method I used to cut my 1.75 60’.
I tend to have a really slow 1-2 shift when I use the brake-torque technique. Doesn’t seem like the car likes it. I have a feeling it might be overheating and going into some safe mode.
Wasnt at the track. Was on the street. Tracks should open up soon and I will for sure share the results.
Ah, OK… great
Very good info. 1.75 is a great 60’ for these cars. Ill stick to that technique. Don’t want to chance burning up the transmission.
yeah an X makes more sense. the goal is to allow the streams to mix when they want to, not force them to
in all likelyhood it is the fuel pump priming so the car starts sooner
Good info B. It is surprising the high percentage of expensive aftermarket exhausts that have poor design. It is like the guys designing them have no idea what they are doing.
Exactly. The single pipe idea is terrible. You want to create more low pressure transitions not build a low then high pressure siuation like with the single pipe
Yep. It is really amazing how many bad exhausts are out there.
Mental note:
Do not buy ten thousand dollar headers from the guy who thinks that dumping the exhaust from both sides of the NA v10 engine into a huge, extended collector is a fantastic idea
I would say definitely don’t give that guy money.
I have a miller exhaust, and mine does the same thing… very loud exhaust note at idle for the first minute or so, then it disappears as soon as the idle dips back to normal. Honestly I never gave it much though, just thought it sounded awesome on my way out the driveway, and left it at that 