Prime, do you have a more recent picture of your engine bay that we could take a look at? 
-Skid
Yeah, I’d be interested to see how “clean” it looks…
I’m sure APR wasn’t being serious when they made you sign that NDA ;D
Since I updated DumbassZine, figured I would update hear and here your feedback/criticism.
Little update to my custom PCV setup, the catch can was catching more water vapor from the motor than oil vapor(good sign of healthily motor btw). As such, it was filling up quite quickly as temps dropped for the winter.
As a permanent solution, my tech came up with this.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/02/eaa8688183771db3ac4bc35090754e00.jpg
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/02/9087632753399074352c60abd6353ca1.jpg
The lines that used to go to catch can, are now routed directly into the exhaust, behind the rear O2 sensors, the lines are protected by heat wrap where they are near the exhaust, and come straight from the valve cover(as it did before to the catch can), oil separator is still sealed off and the PCV valve under the supercharger is still blocked using this:
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/02/4e4e83a18ff3364f81e0323a9f178ed6.jpg
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/02/31de20acf219fc02c10b07f743427646.jpg
Very interesting design. Just curious how hooking it to the exhaust would pull more “oil vapor” than your old routing? Wonder how well an electric vac pump would do.
That looks more like “carbon presence” than carbon buildup. Carbon is certainly present and if you put gasoline in the engine again and run it, carbon will return.
What are the before/after dyno gains?
We plugged a pressure tester into the valve cover to see if any negative or positive pressure was being placed back into the system (mind you there was no load on the engine) and we revved it all the way to 7 grand and the pressure gauge did not move.
The cleaning was done around 43,000 miles, and yes, the “build up” was minimal to say the least. Measures taken thereafter are more of an experiment and preventative measures, car has 51000 miles now and we will be checking again after winter.
No dyno numbers as AWD dynos are SEVERELY lacking in this part of the world.
I’d worry about the insulation burning off due to proximity of the exhaust–it WILL burn off.
On my Boss302 (it had sidepipes), the sidepipes would melt the side skirt (!!!) near where the exhaust was being dumped.
Your insulation around those pipes would burn–and by the way, is it actually insulation or is it a soft hose? If it’s not a hard hose, the design is sketchy. If you need to dump the vapors somewhere, why not get a true catch can that vents into the atmosphere?
Or route that stuff to a filter and keep it in the engine bay. I personally would get a canister that can breathe.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads18/dry+sump1302372726.jpg
Do not like how it’s routed to the exhaust like that at all…
It was routed to a breather(shown in first posts lol), kept filling up with water too fast, had to empty once a week.
The insulation is good to 2000 degrees and does not touch the exhaust, pic was taken before everything was secured. Seeing some of the applications that my guy has used this insulation on, I am not worried in the least.
I know it’s not for everyone, but I will be sure to report findings. So far, clean as a whistle.
Good idea, kind of an old school method but it works.
PWNED!
Sorry, I actually didn’t read the first post and skipped to your last post 
That makes sense. Is it a soft hose under the insulation though? That is what I’d be wary about. If it’s a hard hose–all good. Except that the insulation may trap moisture and rust the hose prematurely.
However, if you are getting so much water in your catch can, your car must’ve been pulling quite a lot of timing at some points!!
Ahh I will double check, I see what your saying.
Nope, I’ve logged quite a bit, car rarely pulls more than 4 degrees on a hard pull, with the temperature dropping it rarely pulls any timing.
I’m not sure why so much water vapor is being expelled, but it was probably spilling 200-250ml of water vapor(small small amounts of oil), every 8-10 days.
On my 2008 GTI, MKV… I had a catch can set up… and in the winter, I had to empty it every day to prevent it from freezing and causing blockage. A buddy of mine did the catch can set up but he was too lazy to drain it every day… He ended up stalling his engine and it died on him… rofl.
This is one of the reasons I removed my catch can setup.
woooooooow @________@
Any updates on how this system is running ;D (necro bump!)
I’m in contact with APR and they mentioned checking out the PCV system. This mod seems pretty extreme, but I’m curious about other options for blocking the PCV system.
I would go after the usual suspects first. Fuel filter, spark plugs, check coil packs, flush the CPS coolant if you have one. Bubbles in the coolant system can cause high IATs. I had to flush mine several times before it was bubble free.
I did a carbon clean on mine at about 45K miles iirc and the tech removed a fair amount of carbon. There was also an updated pcv valve that the 2011s received (tsb? ) when he did my carbon clean.
That amount of timing pull you have is definitely off. Something is not right.
Where did you have carbon? Intake ports like the RS4?
Yup, hear you on that. Saw pretty horrible timing pull with IAT’s very low, so not sure if the CPS is at fault. I know I didn’t do the best job bleeding my system. Plugs will definitely be replaced. Maybe coilpacks. Fuel filter sounds like a big PITA but will definitely put it on the list. Probably towards the end (since it looked like my rail pressures were pretty close to the requested values - which assumes I was looking at the correct signals lol).
Yes- tech said it wasn’t as bad as the RS4s he had done but it definitely had a good amount.