You have big plates in there for the meth?
Nope, no plates. Leaving meth plumbed into intake.
That’s what I was debating, I know the RS4 4.2 removes them with a spacer, but this is forced induction so I can’t decide whether it will benefit or not. I guess test and see is the only way to know.
I just saw you’ve pmd me. Sorry I was messing with my settings and must have turned off my notification.
Yes I’m a 4.2 but the 2.0t guys remove them as well and they’ve been fine from what I’ve read. The 2.0t guys they’d see a issue more then you if there was one.
Sneak preview of PCV setup.
More to come.
Looking at mounting a tube and cutting an insert from the lower tray to direct more airflow from below towards the intake.
Nice job on the heat wrap. Is your coolant low?
Black looks nicer ;D
photobucket.com/user/concordslim/media/Concord-20130615-00473_zps6930bb91.jpg.html]
http://i1012.photobucket.com/albums/af247/concordslim/Concord-20130615-00473_zps6930bb91.jpg
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It sure does. Now change the blue ring on the air filter to black or red and you’ll have it nailed.
Will double check.
Yes I’ve been meaning to change to black.
Looks nice. What wrap is that?
Prime, do you have a more recent picture of your engine bay that we could take a look at? 
-Skid
Yeah, I’d be interested to see how “clean” it looks…
I’m sure APR wasn’t being serious when they made you sign that NDA ;D
Since I updated DumbassZine, figured I would update hear and here your feedback/criticism.
Little update to my custom PCV setup, the catch can was catching more water vapor from the motor than oil vapor(good sign of healthily motor btw). As such, it was filling up quite quickly as temps dropped for the winter.
As a permanent solution, my tech came up with this.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/02/eaa8688183771db3ac4bc35090754e00.jpg
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/02/9087632753399074352c60abd6353ca1.jpg
The lines that used to go to catch can, are now routed directly into the exhaust, behind the rear O2 sensors, the lines are protected by heat wrap where they are near the exhaust, and come straight from the valve cover(as it did before to the catch can), oil separator is still sealed off and the PCV valve under the supercharger is still blocked using this:
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/02/4e4e83a18ff3364f81e0323a9f178ed6.jpg
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/02/31de20acf219fc02c10b07f743427646.jpg
Very interesting design. Just curious how hooking it to the exhaust would pull more “oil vapor” than your old routing? Wonder how well an electric vac pump would do.
That looks more like “carbon presence” than carbon buildup. Carbon is certainly present and if you put gasoline in the engine again and run it, carbon will return.
What are the before/after dyno gains?
We plugged a pressure tester into the valve cover to see if any negative or positive pressure was being placed back into the system (mind you there was no load on the engine) and we revved it all the way to 7 grand and the pressure gauge did not move.
The cleaning was done around 43,000 miles, and yes, the “build up” was minimal to say the least. Measures taken thereafter are more of an experiment and preventative measures, car has 51000 miles now and we will be checking again after winter.
No dyno numbers as AWD dynos are SEVERELY lacking in this part of the world.
I’d worry about the insulation burning off due to proximity of the exhaust–it WILL burn off.
On my Boss302 (it had sidepipes), the sidepipes would melt the side skirt (!!!) near where the exhaust was being dumped.
Your insulation around those pipes would burn–and by the way, is it actually insulation or is it a soft hose? If it’s not a hard hose, the design is sketchy. If you need to dump the vapors somewhere, why not get a true catch can that vents into the atmosphere?
Or route that stuff to a filter and keep it in the engine bay. I personally would get a canister that can breathe.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads18/dry+sump1302372726.jpg
Do not like how it’s routed to the exhaust like that at all…
It was routed to a breather(shown in first posts lol), kept filling up with water too fast, had to empty once a week.
The insulation is good to 2000 degrees and does not touch the exhaust, pic was taken before everything was secured. Seeing some of the applications that my guy has used this insulation on, I am not worried in the least.
I know it’s not for everyone, but I will be sure to report findings. So far, clean as a whistle.
Good idea, kind of an old school method but it works.
PWNED!
Sorry, I actually didn’t read the first post and skipped to your last post 
That makes sense. Is it a soft hose under the insulation though? That is what I’d be wary about. If it’s a hard hose–all good. Except that the insulation may trap moisture and rust the hose prematurely.
However, if you are getting so much water in your catch can, your car must’ve been pulling quite a lot of timing at some points!!