From the top picture you have a CHIP. Take a picture of the side of the ECU straight on. With the top side up. that will show you.
Essentially, yes. I have not replaced any relays yet because I have not found one that seems to power the things I am getting the codes for (any resource on this would help… from searching if it was a bad FP relay I would have other codes like injectors). I have not replaced the battery for two reasons, (1) it is a year old and (2) it runs & cranks just fine when things are actually working, I’ve not seen any voltage drops or electronic issues other than when the car won’t actually start. Still, regarding the battery, I plan to swap it with my sedan later this week. It is hard to find time during the week. I could swap more components I suppose, it’s just frustrating it is so intermittent, it would take FOREVER to swap relays or solenoids or whatever 1 by 1 and just wait weeks to see if the issue reoccurs. But I can try the battery as a start.
I do not want to just starting buying shit and seeing what sticks, I don’t have the time or $ for that. I was hoping for some direction or resource on what relays do what or how to even troubleshoot this. I have a multimeter but don’t know where to start. I have a pdf labeled wiring diagram but it seems incomplete and references nothing re:interior electronics.
I removed the ECU initially because (1) I could not get it to show on VCDS and (2) Figured it was worth a look to see if there was water or debris in there as people have historically reported. Then the PO said he replaced a relay under the ECU but I couldn’t tell which one. And then I found out about the chip vs flash, which is a whole other confusing issue (see next post).
I will try to get another pic this weekend. You seem pretty convinced it is chipped. JHM seems pretty convinced the chip is gone and it is flashed. I sent the exact same photos to JHM (and you can read Dru’s response a few posts up).
Everyone seems to agree there was a chip present at some point, but the question is, is it still there? And if it is, why is JHM saying it is not, and is there a way to determine via software if it is a flashed version of the tune or a chipped version? The header says “4.7L 93/\P”.
???
Also, just generally want to say thanks to everyone who has responded or tried to help. Personal life/work has been crazy lately and I haven’t had a ton of time to delve into all this like I normally would. And electrical gremlins are definitely not my forte, I am a mechanical guy not magic pixies guy. Appreciate the patience! 
Swapped battery, disconnected it and charged it independently, etc… No dice. Still no start. :’(
This is driving me nuts. What I did today:
- Swapped battery, no change.
- Bypassed fuel pump relay (FPR) which gets fuel pump running, and car still won’t start. Rules out bad fuel pump.
- Checked the voltages at fuel pump fuse… never saw 12v, even with a new relay. I’m thinking the relay is never getting the signal from the ECU to trigger and send power?
- Connection to ECU Engine Block still intermittent (see below)
- Alternator wire and plug still tight.
- Checked battery main ground, ground on firewall, grounds in dash that I could find. All tight.
- Checked all fuses in ECU box, dashboard, at battery, etc… all look fine.
- Tried to log G28 engine speed with engine cranking, but it always just showed 0/min the entire time. Is that normal? No light or DTC ever appeared for the G28 sensor though. Tried unplugging it and still no code, which I don’t understand.
---- perhaps this is one problem for no start, but should have nothing to do with the intermittent ECU block 01 connections and terminal 30 voltage junk.
VCDS will seemingly randomly connect to the Engine Block (01). Example:
Key to ON, open VCDS, Can read block01 (engine).
Try to start car, won’t start. Key back to on. Can still read engine.
Turn key to off, then try starting again. Won’t start, but keep key in ON position. VCDS can NOT read block01. WTF?
Key off then back on, VCDS still wont read.
Key off, then back to try and start, won’t start, key to ON, VCDS connects to 01.
Tried starting when I had good connection to block01 and FPR bypass, still no start.
…I tried every conceivable way (key off, to on, start attempt, on to off without start attempt, etc) and no pattern emerged.
Codes popped up in other blocks at various times for Terminal 30 and No Communication with ECU. (always together and only when the ECU communication went out)
Thinking through step by step, I can see a bad battery or power supply TO the ECU causing the ECU to malfunction and throw the “no communication” codes along with the Terminal 30 codes.
But if it was just a shit ECU, is there any way that would throw a Terminal 30 code? Seems like that code is for power directly from the battery, so a toasted ECU wouldn’t trigger one? I don’t know, I am asking.
What is there that can mess up the “Terminal 30” circuit?
Do the Terminal 30 codes rule out a bad ECU?
After yesterdays post I was going to repost
and you did that in the link you just put up. you 100% have a chipped ecu send jhm the string of pictures in the link you can clearly see you have a chipped ecu. That board is old and just needs to be replaced. They can set you up with flash and as I mentioned before. the flash makes more power with the updated tune.
OK, I’ve sent yet another email to JHM. Now I wait… again…
two other things I noticed
- In vcds when cranking the car in the graph or log view, the g28 engine speed sensor always stayed at 0/min
- Also in that same mode, the “Engine Load” remained at 100%, whether key just on or actually cranking the car over, it never changed.
Is that normal?
It’s chipped. 100% that should fix almost all of your issues.
No response the entire week on the email to JHM. I will try calling tomorrow, I guess.
Got an email back this morning from JHM:
“That ECU has been opened in the past and the chip removed and the ECU converted to flash technology.”
Sooooo… yeah. Now what _ ??? _/
Who did you talk to? Send me a PM I’ll help get this sorted out.
Badger, you’ve got Allstate now.
PM Sent, thanks!
LOL thats so well put.
Badger did CV help you get this sorted out. I know he has a lot of crazy stuff going on right now and is super busy but it would be nice to know you got this worked out.
Yeah we are working it out via PM; from what I’ve gotten so far I think it will get sorted soon enough!
Quick update… finally spoke directly to JHM tonight. I will be sending the ECU to JHM tomorrow. It does have the chip, so they will be converting it to flash technology. Hopefully that will be the end of the troubles!
Got my ECU back yesterday. Put it in, car started. Yay, right? No. PRNDS was all lit up. I let it run 10-15 seconds then shut it off.
Tried to start again a few min later, NO DICE. Crank crank crank like before, no start. Would not start. PRNDS all lit up again.
Poking in vcds, found a code in the transmission address (02) that seemed to have some bearing on the issue. I did this sequence a few times:
- Try to start, won’t start. PRNDS is lit up
- Clear this 1 code, the PRNDS stops being lit up!
- Try to start, the PRNDS lights up again as it cranks
- Code in trans is back immediately
Here is the code:
Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 09L-927-760.lbl
Control Module Part Number: 8E0 910 156 R HW: 09L 927 156
Component and/or Version: AG6 09L 4.2L5V USA 0060
Software Coding: 0000002
Work Shop Code: WSC 06325 000 00000
VCID: 35612E805F3221E90A-5140
1 Fault Found:
18274 - Powertrain Data Bus
P1866 - 000 - Missing Messages
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 40
Mileage: 0 km
Time Indication: 0
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
RPM: 0 /min
RPM: 0 /min
(no units): 30.0
(no units): 25.0
Temperature: 21.0°C
T.B. Angle: 60.0°
Very not happy right now. Very confused.
??? >:( :’(