Great thread Euro! Going to be following along as this is on the list of things to do soon.
For Clutch slave and master I bought this tool http://www.summitracing.com/parts/psl-2003-b/overview/
It takes longer to prime the tool then to bleed the system. Gone is wasting time gravity bleeding etc, 5 minutes and done. I have done 3-4 slaves with this tool.
Cool tool, but that is an insane price IMO. I have a vacuum bleeder that was like 15 bucks that probably works just as well. Also, bleeding the slave the regular way isn’t exactly a hard thing to do, just need a buddy for 10 minutes or so.
More tools are always cool. I gravity bleed it or just never disconnect the line.
I didn’t order the upgraded slave, mines working fine but do you guys think I should just do it while im in there and have everything apart? what happens to them? and why is the upgraded one better?
No point, just go OEM. I don’t see a point in the metal line either.
If JHM doesn’t sell it, run it, or make their own upgrade…then OEM is just fine for me too. No other company knows the platform better and no one does the testing they do…to include clutch abuse.
I feel that the “upgrade” is just snake oil.
lots of people bought the snake oil when everyone thought the line was the problem causing the sticky clutch issue
One of the quattrofailers spread that the line would kink, so you need a metal line. Doesn’t do shit. We know what’s wrong, and it’s not that line.
Maybe the metal line is better…who knows. But it’s not the cure to the pressure plate. Changing the pressure plate is.
Most of the time what fails on the slave is the rubber boot. I’ve pulled 3 trans that had them ripped or just completely disintegrated and missing all together.
i guess the more times you do it the cheaper the tool gets from a cost perspective. I use it pretty often so I guess it made sense for me
ok cool. thanks guys. ya I remember reading threads on line kinks and so on but mine has always operated flawlessly, just weak. so if the boot looks bad can u order just the boot or do you need a whole new one?
btw swag this thread is looking amazing, I seriously doubt ill have anytning to add that u haven’t already thought of. +karma.
Jesus that’s expensive for what it is!
Why not just buy a motive pressure bleeder? A lot more versatile imo. I’ve used the pressure bleeder several times to do entire master/slave swaps as well as brake line swaps. It’s effortless with a pressure bleeder and again at half the price.
Similar to this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000Q6SL2W/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1418221824&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SY200_QL40
I have the motive as well. the difference in the two tools is that motive forces air down (traditional way) this one pushes air up so (natural way). The motive still doesn’t get it as good as this tool does. I agree its expensive but it works so well. If you are only changing one clutch it is probably not worth it, but if you need to more than one, the time saving are there.
^I really don’t understand what you’re trying to say?
“The motive still doesn’t get it as good as this tool does” <- What tool? The first one quoted from Summit?? How does one tool do a better job than the other at replacing the hydraulic fluids in a closed system? If you flush all the old out and have all new, I don’t see a difference, other than twice the price.
Also don’t get by what you mean it “pushes air up”. I get that the motive is a pressurized chamber driving the fluid through the system, but I don’t see the difference/understand how the first tool works or why one is better.
With the motive I just pressurized the system, then went to bleed the brakes/slave depending on what I was doing. The brake master / clutch master is doing exactly the same thing, pressurizing the system.
Just trying to understand what your saying incase I am truly missing something or how one operates better than the other.
The tool I quoted pushes brake fluid in from the bleed screw not the res up top. so as you pump brake fluid in the air is displaced upwards towards the res. filling all the spaces air likes to get stuck. With a power bleeder like the motive forces brake fluid from the res. down, making it a little longer process to make sure you have removed all the air. Is my solution cheap? hell no. Is it hassle free and works on the first shot? you bet. Is it a required tool? again hell no. I bought it because I got tired with bleeding tapping, and gravity bleeding to evacuate all the air.
*Updated Transmission Removal section, I still need to go get some pictures of the tools I used and a few other items but I should have time to put most of this together during the weekend.
Not trying to argue with you but I don’t get this either. Obviously air bubbles in a glass of water will naturally rise to the top. But I’m not so sure that an air bubble in a brake caliper or line is going to naturally rise to the master cylinder.
Also, if you’re pressurizing from the bleed nipple, where are you draining fluid from?
After installing my big brake kits I bled all 4 corners twice within 15 minutes with the Motive bleeder. I have a hard time believing it could have been done any faster with that bleeder.
^^Like I said, I literally see no way it is “easier”. And really, it seems much more logical to me applying pressure through the master side rather than trying to push it through the nipple side. For twice the price, I still see very little if any benefit. And even if it was the same price, I’d personally still be going with the motive b/c it seems easier as a one man operation.
For a slave bleed job, it seems like it’d be much more difficult to use this as a one man operation. I.e. would it not be tough to get it going from the bottom and then have to pop up top to see when all the air bubbles stop coming out, and then get back down below to stop it from pumping more fluid in?
And one other question, with the one listed on summit, what do you do with all the extra fluid you’ve put into the system from the nipple side that is now filling the reservoir? How do you keep the reservoir from overflowing?
Most the Vw/Audi tech buddies I have all use a snap on version of the motive pressure bleeder. I’ve just literally never personally seen a pressure bleeder from the nipple side like that used before.
This is what I’d like to know too.
The fluid travels up to the res. It it fills up too much I use a turkey style baster to take some off the top. I do NOT use this tool to bleed my brakes at all. I use my motive for that. I only use this for the clutch master and or slave.
This is one man job, i’ve done it 3 or 4 times. Not only that but we have bled the system with the engine in the car from the top (on 01 A6 4.2, and a few of B5 S4s) I use either use a turkey baster or use the motive bleeder cap into a bottle. In reality if the system has been open the level is far enough down that I have never overfilled a res. The clutch feed line in the res. is far enough down that filling the system in the reverse direction does not yield over filling. When filling it once you see the bubbles stop coming out of the feed line you are done. I wish I was a doing a clutch job soon to film it.