DIY: COMPLETE B6/7 6MT ENGINE PULL GUIDE by JOEY CUCCARO

Here is the DIY that you all have been waiting for. I have taken a lot of time to put together this DIY while I removed the engine on my Avant. You can use this entire DIY to pull the motor or use sections of it to remove certain parts that are also involved with the engine pull.

Please note this DIY is NOT for the faint of heart. It is a very very detailed, tiring, and time consuming process. I highly recommend that you have a few capable hands working with you. If this is the case you should be able to have it pulled in a day, if you work hard. If this is your first time do not be surprised if you cannot fit the engine removal and re-install in a weekend.

This is also a very good time to do maintenance items while you are pulling the motor for whatever reason. We all know the engine bay is cramped and hard to work in sometimes; with the motor out you really have no restrictions or limitations to working. Take advantage and do as much maintenance items as possible. It is also a good time for other modifications.

WHILE THE MOTOR IS OUT, YOU SHOULD CONSIDER THE FOLLOWING:

Maintenance
** Timing Chain Service ( Tensioners, Tensioner Guides, Timing Chains, Adjusters)
** Valve Cover Gaskets
** Serpentine Belt / Idler Pulley / Belt Tensioner
** Spark Plugs
** Coil Packs
** Air Filter
** Oil Change

Modifications
** JHM Headers (Recommend Ceramic Coating or Header Wrap) / Aftermarket Downpipes
** JHM Intake Manifold
** JHM LW Pulley
** Snub Mount
** Upgraded Motor Mounts
** LW Flywheel / Upgraded Clutch JHM Shifter Trio
** JHM Tune
** JHM Intake Spacers

WHAT YOU WILL NEED FOR REINSTALL:

** 2 Jugs of G12 Coolant (1.5 liter)- $25
** 1 Can of Power Steering Fluid (1 liter)- Recommend CHF- $20
** AC Recharge- $100
** Various Hose Clamps (Buy an assorted pack)- $10

Estimate Total Cost of Necessary Parts: $155

EQUIPMENT / TOOL REQUIRED:

Critical Equipment
** Engine Hoist (Must be rated at least 1/2 ton)
** Lift Chains / Securing Hooks
** 4 Jack Stands
** Jack

Tools Necessary
*Not all of these tools are absolutely necessary. For example you will not use every single socket in the 1/4 set, or you might prefer to use a 3/8 set instead of a 1/4.

However, all are good to have and with many options it can make certain tasks easier with the right assortment of tools

** 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 Ratchets
** 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 Socket Sets (Shallow and Deep)
** 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 Breaker Bars (Assorted Lengths for Leverage)
** Assortment of Flat Head Screw Drivers
** Assortment of Philips Screw Drivers
** Angled Pick Set
** TORX Socket Set (T25, T30, T45 mostly used)
** HEX Socket Set (6mm mostly used)
** Ratcheting Wrench Set
** Assorted Wrench Set (Metric)
** Triple Square Set (110 mostly used)
** Hose Clamp Removal Tool (Make things a lot easier)
** Assortment of Pliers (Needle Nose, Channel Locks, Pliers)
** Hammer
** Rubber Mallet
** Pry Bars
** Can of PB Blaster / Spray Lubricant

PHASES / DIFFICULTY / TiIME ESTIMATES

This DIY will be broken out into phases, below is an outline of the phases involved for the motor pull process. I have also rated each phase based on difficulty with a scale of 1-10 (ten begin extremely difficult) with an estimated time of completion.

Note: Time estimation is taking into account on someone who is familiar with working on this section of the car

Phase 1: Bumper Removal
Difficulty: 4
Time: 45 Minutes

Phase 2: Radiator Removal
Difficulty: 5
Time: 1 Hour

Phase 3: Stock Cat-back Removal
Difficulty: 2
Time: 20 Minutes

Phase 4: Engine Bay Plumbing and Component Removal
Difficulty: 6
Time: 1.5 Hours

Phase 5: Engine Electrical Harness Removal
Difficulty: 6
Time: 2 Hours

Phase 6: Dropping the Shifter Box
Difficulty: 3
Time: 45 Minutes

Phase 7: Final Components and Engine Pull
Difficulty: 8
Time: 2-3 Hours

*** SUPPLEMENTALS ***

SUPPLEMENTAL ONE: ECU REMOVAL
[url=http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=2737.msg77114#msg77114]SUPPLEMENTAL TWO: JHM HEADERS

Total Time Estimate: 8-9 Hours

This gives us a realistic time frame of how long it will take to pull the motor first time around, working at a decent pace and taking short breaks. I have done this motor twice now and i can say i would feel comfortable getting it done in about 5-6 hours with capable assistance.

Air Conditioning Discharge / Recharge

The Air Condition lines must be disconnected during this engine pull DIY. It is up to you whether or not you want to have the system discharged professionally; having it done properly will be better for the environment. However, this is totally up to you. an AC discharge should only run about $20. You can also buy a kit to do the discharge it yourself. If wish to do it the lazy way, locate this AC line in the upper passenger side of the engine bay, remove this black cap, stick a pick or a small screw driver down in to vent the freon as shown below.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5571/14950942342_3641bf7061_o.jpg

You will also need a recharge upon completion. Prices vary, but expect to pay around $100 for it.

HELPFUL RECOMMENDATIONS

** Be Patient.
** Don’t rush! It is a long process.
** If you become frustrated, take a break; going too quickly or getting upset will only lead to stuff breaking.
** Ask Questions! If you become stuck or if something is not clear, take the time to ask.
** Have Fun! Enjoy your passion and really learn about your car; working on it is half the love for these cars

Phase 1: Bumper Removal
Difficulty: 4
Approximate time: 45 Minutes

Here is a look at the engine bay before we begin the engine removal process.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5568/14764894359_11090a52cc_z.jpg

Remove all of the engine bay covers and the engine bay weather strip

Next step is to remove the airbox intake tube; grab your philips screw driver and remove the two screws that hold the front of the intake tube to the rad support.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5565/14948480161_f50fa9017f_z.jpg

Once the screws are removed, lift up and wiggle the tube out as shown below

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3853/14765086907_636d588ca5_o.jpg

Time to remove the headlights, grab your 3/8 ratchet, extension, and TORX30 socket. There are 4 TORX30 bolts holding each headlight down, the top two can be seen.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3872/14951630295_67363dfb06_o.jpg

The lower two are screwed into the headlight tray, locate them via the picture below. Do not remove them, just loosen enough to where you can pull the headlight forward.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5578/14764996399_b78e44a6d7_o.jpg

Once the headlight has been moved forward, disconnect the headlight connector by pushing the connector forward and at the same time pull backward on the clip. This will release the connector and the headlight will come out.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3850/14951676165_48513a6ae2_o.jpg

Same procedure on the passenger side. Here are the lower TORX30 bolts.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3900/14765086760_a8d5407b2a_o.jpg

Next, grab a flat head and head for the fog light grills. Locate the screw on the inside corner as shown below, it should be vertical. Turn it to a horizontal position and it will pop out, wiggle the fog like grill out of the inner tab and remove. Repeat on passenger side.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5579/14951758515_eb7c3969c7_o.jpg

Grab a 1/4 ratchet and TORX25 bit and head or the fender liner. Behind the liner you will see this torx25 bolt, remove it and repeat on the drivers side.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3865/14765107059_73b900db0d_b.jpg

Once those inner fender bolts are removed we can pop the side of the bumper free from the fender. Simply grab from the end and pull toward you, it will pop free with some muscle. Repeat on other side.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5587/14948723831_a29998a081_b.jpg

Time to get the bolts that hold the bumper to the fender, grab a 10mm ratcheting wrench and pick a side of the car. Look down where the headlight was and you will see three 10mm nuts on each side fastening the bumper to the fender, remove all 6 (three on each side).
*** The driver side lower most bolt might be hard to see and reach due to the harness and washer fluid connector being in the way. This one might take a bit of patience to get to ***

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3850/14948746871_3de8634d92_b.jpg

(Passenger Side)

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3878/14765346257_0bba54ec04_b.jpg

(Driver Side)

Last step for bumper removal, loosen the two main frame rail bolts; grab a 3/8 ratchet, short extension, and 6mm HEX and navigate to the fog light grill openings. Peak up and you will see this bolt.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5559/14928915716_0beef577f6_b.jpg

Loosen this bolt, but do not remove it. Once you loosen it enough you will be able to feel the bumper give forward. Repeat on the other side.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5591/14765258620_7f8c19713f_o.jpg

Now you will be able to slide the bumper forward. Pull outward and support the passenger side with a bucket or stool while finish disconnecting plugs on the drivers side to pull the bumper completely free.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5590/14951930485_2dbbfea612_o.jpg

There are two wiring harness connectors that must be disconnected and a windshield washer line that must be un-done to remove the bumper. Here is what you need to unplug.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5562/14951614072_5f1ef744c1_o.jpg

Get a bucket ready before you unplug the washer fluid connector, it will come spilling out.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3845/14951959185_f49be9b80c_o.jpg

The bumper should now be off.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5568/14951982675_22093928b0_o.jpg

------ END OF PHASE ONE ------

Phase 2: Radiator Removal
Difficulty: 5
Approximate time: 1 Hour

First step is to drain the coolant system, remove the cap on your coolant reservoir to depressurize the system. Next, grab a 6mm Hex and locate the water pump on the driver side of the car, remove the drain plug as shown below.

*** Make sure you have a bucket ready to catch all of the coolant. This will help save a mess when we disconnect other coolant lines later on ***

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3865/14951750072_ac7c5b0c0f_o.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~jmurphy56/Audi/DrainCoolant.JPG

Let’s start by taking the auxiliary radiator air shrouds out, the passenger side can be removed by taking out these two 10mm bolts as shown below. Grab your 1/4 ratchet and get to work.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3860/14952093945_3792de4ccc_o.jpg

Drivers side is a bit more of a pain, there are four 8mm nuts holding the shroud on. Two on the top and two on the bottom, remove them and pull the shroud out.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5589/14765438580_0cf8ea8163_b.jpg

On the drivers side you will see two plugs. Here is one going to the condenser, disconnect it.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5583/14765521798_2663b723d5_o.jpg

The next one is a bit lower, it goes to the fan control module. Disconnect it also.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5577/14949039031_833fb91f2b_o.jpg

Let’s take out the radiator support bolts, there are three on each side. Two on top of the fender and one on the side, they are TORX30; remove them.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3851/14949215411_b06b3dd853_b.jpg

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5589/14949215381_a45c21c93a_b.jpg

Now we can take out the frame rail core supports. Again, there are three bolts on each side, they are TORX45 screws. Completely remove them from the core supports/frame rail.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3860/14929366516_ba471d5050_o.jpg

Take off the hood latch, it is located on the top back side of the radiator support. Remove by pulling it outward.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3877/14929366486_5b0364df30_b.jpg

The airbag sensors can now be unplugged. There are two total; one on each side of the radiator support, they are yellow. Push in on the connector while pulling back on the plug, remove.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5561/14952091862_2884a6215b_b.jpg

Locate these two plugs by the ABS module. They run to the electrical components on the radiator support. Disconnect both.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3864/14952438715_068ab7d010_o.jpg

Next step is to un-do the two coolant hoses behind the radiator. You can disconnect whichever you want to first, it does not matter; have a bucket handy because there will still be some excess coolant in the system. There is one hose located on the upper passenger side and one located on the lower drivers side as shown below.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3850/14765762370_f84c252d7e_b.jpg

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5594/14949371431_11db48fd8a_b.jpg

Let the excess coolant, if any, drain.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5557/14765880170_631074267c_o.jpg

We can now take off the two power steering lines located under the driver side lower radiator coolant line. You can see the both below, they will be held on by 1 use clams if you have never taken them off before. You will most likely mangle them by taking the off, don’t worry as you will replace those clamp with new ones during the re-install.

Again, have a bucket ready to catch the PS fluid.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3894/14949503821_82788d14d6_b.jpg

The only thing holding the radiator on now are the two lower AC hard lines. Grab a 10mm socket and unscrew both bolts, pull the hard lines off. One is located on the passenger side, the other on the drivers side; both shown below.

Passenger Side

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3919/14929611756_0d67c0c6ba_b.jpg

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3912/14949503801_098b749acc_o.jpg

Driver Side

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5558/14765968939_1b815c70d1_b.jpg

The radiator is now free and can be pulled away from the car.
*** Be careful as there will still be coolant in the system, don’t be surprised if a lot of it falls out of the radiator. ***

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3878/14766025248_6f029af1a6_b.jpg

------ END OF PHASE TWO ------

Phase 3: Stock Cat-back Removal
Difficulty: 2
Time: 20 Minutes

Next step is to get the stock exhaust off, grab some lubricant and a pry back and slide under the back of the car. I find the easiest way to get the catback off is to first undo the hangers on the mid-section. If you do them with the mufflers hanging free it will make it much more difficult since all of the weight will be on the mid-section hangers.

Below is what the hangers look like in the mid section. Lube the hangers up and wedge a pry-bar between the drive-shift and exhaust to pop these hangers out. It might require some muscling of the exhaust back and fourth but they should come off rather easier.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3901/14766109450_65721b2a60_o.jpg

Once the mid-section hangers are off, grab a rachet and a 17mm deep socket to loosen the four bolts (two on each side as shown) to loosen the sleeve clamps, connecting the downpipes to the catback.
*** I recommend spraying some PB-Blaster on these bolts before attempting to take them off. They are prone to rusting especially if you are in a winter state. Don’t worry if some of the bolts snap, I have had this happen many times. They are cheap and easy to replace if need be ***

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5566/14766233147_ef4963ba33_o.jpg

Last step to get the cat-back off is the rear muffler hangers. There are two ways to go about this, you can either pop off the mufflers from the rubber hangers or take the rubber hangers out completely. I have done both and find that leaving the hangers in the car make it easier later on for re-install and tip alignment.

If you want to leave the hangers in, grab some lube and a pry bar and simply pop off the mufflers. It might be a good idea to have a friend hold up the mufflers or a jack as they are heavy and will fall downward:

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3887/14952462712_d17022c4c3_o.jpg

If you want to take the hangers out completely them get a 13mm socket and extension and un-do the four 13mm bolts (2 on each side) that bolt the hanger into the body:

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3914/14766188608_02ebde2118_o.jpg

The exhaust is ready to come off now, grab the mufflers and gently tug outward. The cat-back should easily slide out from the downpipe sleeve and become free from the car.

------ END OF PHASE THREE ------

Phase 4: Engine Bay Plumbing and Component Removal
Difficulty: 6
Time: 1.5 Hours

In this phase, we will be removing all top-side components and plumbing to get the engine out of the car.

Here is a shot to give you a feel where we are in the dis-assembly:

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3882/14964280332_129bd8c3c5_o.jpg

Lets first get the air components out of the way, grab a flat head and start loosening the two clamps on the MAF tube. As you can see below there is one clamp connecting the tube to the MAF and another connecting the tube to the Throttle Body.

Loosen both and remove the tube from the components.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3882/14777942490_be5dcfac5c_b.jpg

With it off.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5581/14778074387_db940d6535_o.jpg

To completely remove the tube you must disconnect it from the plastic elbow seated in the tube.
*** Be careful as it is very very brittle and will easily snap. Soak the elbow down with lubricant and get a right angle pick to pull the lip back and wiggle the elbow out ***

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3845/14964280302_4685f73cb1_o.jpg

To get the airbox out, first remove the front tubing by pushing inward on the connector, pinching the ribber tabs in, and pulling outward on the connector.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3893/14777933919_ddd7fa43f9_o.jpg

Pop the wire running on top of the airbox by pulling upward, it is held on by two tabs.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3894/14941785466_cc12b90122_o.jpg

Grab a philips screw driver and remove the two screws on top of the airbox as shown below.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5552/14778176658_e676e07d4f_o.jpg

Pull the fuel line tab up from the MAF.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3911/14964783015_1ed17cffcc_o.jpg

Remove this wire from its holder from the front face of the air box.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5572/14778100299_d6b627bb31_o.jpg

Disconnect the MAF sensor connector (located on the back of the MAF) by pushing in and pulling back on the release tab.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5581/14778176558_b204ff2624_o.jpg

Once the airbox lid is free, pull it behind the fuel line and pull it out of the car.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5566/14778100329_8ef806a0de_o.jpg

With the air box lid free, remove the entire airbox out of the car. There is a push pin holding the top of the box into the passenger fender, grab a flat head and pop the push pin out. You will then be able to pull the entire airbox out as it is only secured to the bottom with two rubber grommets.

Disconnect the fuel line and get it out of the way, grab a 17mm wrench and a 14mm wrench. Place them on the nuts as shown below.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3848/14964443752_b8345e5e55_o.jpg

To crack this line loose, push the 17mm wrench toward the center of the car while pulling the 14mm toward you. Once loose, unscrew it but keep a cloth under it just in case excess fuel drips out.

*** To prevent any debris from getting in the lines i recommend you wrapping the ends up and taping them off ***

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3881/14941785316_53c654f1b8_o.jpg

Now we can focus on the plumbing behind the intake manifold.

Pop this air line out from its mount on the firewall.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3902/14964888615_769ac349da_o.jpg

Pop off the smaller coolant line and the larger brake booster line from the back of the manifold.
*** If this is the first time removing these tubes they will be held on by one time use clamps, use a flat head to take them off. You will replace these during re-install with fresh ones ***

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3848/14778216300_92500dec43_o.jpg

Grab a pair of needle nose pliers and remove this air line by pinching the clip and pulling upward.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3839/14778283018_b71af9d607_o.jpg

Take the needle nose pliers and remove the coolant line running to the top of the coolant overflow reservoir in the same fashion.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3881/14778208409_7d6d6ef295_o.jpg

We want to get the reservoir out of the way, grab a philips screw driver and remove this screw.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3908/14778208399_fa5200f9b8_o.jpg

To remove the reservoir from its rear tabs you must push downward on the rear tabs and pull up.

With the reservoir loose remove the sensor from the bottom of the tank in the same fashion you remove all of the audi connectors.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5563/14964888555_e993cf2251_o.jpg

Move the coolant reservoir to the side and that is most of the top components.

Lets move to the sides of the motor. As a general rule of thumb, any tubing or plumbing that crosses over or under the frame rails must be disconnected in order to pull the motor; Let’s start with the passenger side.

There are three main tubes that must be disconnected.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5590/14778216230_20ab7ed602_o.jpg

Most of these tubes are held on by pinch clips. A good pair of channel locks or pliers will be required. Start with the line in the picture above with the “EA” writing on it, pinch the clip in and move it down the tube so we can remove it from the pipe it is connected to.
*** A lot of these tubes have never come off before and might be stuck on the piping. To make getting them off easier, grab a right angle pick and simply break the seal by running the pick between the rubber tube and the pipe it is connected to ***

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5571/14964685502_d4210de669_o.jpg

Here is a shot of all three tubes that must be disconnected.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3920/14965020115_d98f7a74e4_o.jpg

Note the spots where i disconnected the tubes. The third tube is a little harder to see from the picture so here it is at another angle. It connects to a hard line that runs below the valve cover.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5555/14965020045_6e51e9473f_o.jpg

That’s it for the passenger side, push the piping that runs over the frame rail to the side to get it out of the way.
On the drivers side where there are 4 pieces of tubing that must be un-done, I have pointed out three in this picture (two up top next to each other and one on the bottom by the water pump).

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5564/14778481927_ea827e40d3_o.jpg

Using channel locks or pliers take these tubes off the piping in the same manner. Here is a shot of the 2nd top tube that must come off, it was hidden in the first picture. It runs to the power steering reservoir and sits right near the oil dip stick.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5576/14778481907_943d5f8c5f_o.jpg

And another shot for more clarification with the tubes off

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5551/14961913051_6a76289f40_o.jpg

Slide under the driver side auxiliary radiator and locate the 4th piece of tubing. Disconnect it here as i have shown below. I find it easier to disconnect here them getting the larger clip by the water pump.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5564/14965019875_773080e87d_o.jpg

With that plumbing out of the way we are left with another hard AC line, grab a TORX45 socket and un-do this hard line. It will pop right off

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3857/14961913001_efd2f8364b_o.jpg

*** I find it a good habit to put bolts back in their respect holes to avoid misplacing or loosing them ***

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5596/14778342169_7e098544f4_o.jpg

Locate the other AC hard line right next to the one you just took off, grab a TORX45 and take this line off also.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5588/14778441219_cfd1e50c96_o.jpg

This line runs alone the oil pan to the passenger side of the car. There are two clamps under the car (10mm bolts) that hold this line into place. In order to move it out of the way under the car you need to un-do these two clamps, follow the line it is easy to locate them.

Next up is another power steering connector, crouch down by the water pump and locate this line underneath. Grab a 19mm wrench and undo this line.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5578/14962036651_ba9e731c3b_b.jpg

Locate this fat vacuum line that runs in front of the motor and connects to a T elbow by the knock sensor on the front right side of the intake manifold, pull this line off and get it out of the way.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5576/14778463129_07bebf8532_o.jpg

------ END OF PHASE FOUR ------

Phase 5: Engine Electrical Harness Removal
Difficulty: 6
Time: 2 Hours

This section will deal with all of the electric connections in the engine bay that need to be removed.

First thing to do is disconnect the battery, grab a 10mm socket and remove both the positive and negative terminals.
*** We will come back to this to snake the battery wiring out later in this section ***

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3843/14788901317_924c560cf7_b.jpg

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5571/14952474136_eae9025aa9_o.jpg

Lets remove the weather stripping, simply peal it off.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5571/14972349241_40f153ca38_o.jpg

Pop the rear cowl off to expose the ECU box, simply lift up on it and remove.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3907/14788904568_86f3ec59ea_o.jpg

To get the ECU box cover off we need to get a few things out of the way to reach the rear bolts, grab a flat head and pop the cover off the drivers side windshield wiper.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5589/14952529946_41c60a37dd_o.jpg

This will expose a 16mm bolt holding the windshield wiper down, grab a 16mm socket and remove this bolt.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3893/14788904558_bfcee43dc6_o.jpg

With the bolt free we can wiggle the wiper off. If it has never been removed it might be a little difficult to get it off, try spraying some lubricant in the threads and wiggle it back and fourth. It should eventually come free.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3900/14952529906_a35ca5570c_o.jpg

Remove the metal clip that pinches the rain tray onto the tab, this will allow you to pull up higher on the rain tray.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5594/14793529287_a93cc46f62_o.jpg

Now we can remove the ECU cover, there are 5 TORX30 bolts holding it on; three in the front and 2 in the rear. The locations are shown below.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3880/14793529217_30882240ab_o.jpg

Here is a shot of the tricky rear rear bolt location. The trick is to grab a 1/4 ratchet and extension, feed the extension through the wiper hole and attach either a TORX30 or TORX27 (TORX30 is hard to find in 1/4"). This should allow easy access to remove this rear bolt.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3903/14793478428_f32d4eabc4_o.jpg

Pull the cover forward and off, this will expose the ECU.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3914/14980078435_f505735317_o.jpg

Remove the horizontal metal bar holding the ECU in place, pop the tabs off each side.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5596/14793540100_16fa4fc777_o.jpg

You will now be able to lift the ECU out of the holder, move it to the side out of the way.
*** If you are not taking your ECU out please proceed to this section: SUPPLEMENTAL ONE ***

Let’s pop the upper ECU cradle out of the ECU box. This will access to the relay boxes down below, toward the rear of the ECU box you will see it held on by a tab. Grab a flat head and release this tab to pull the holder out.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5572/14793661377_d516398d2b_o.jpg

We can now pull the relays out. It is convenient that they are all held in on a board so DO NOT remove them individually. Again, this piece is held on by a tap on the rear side, with the flat head, release the tab and the whole board will come free.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3896/14957223426_9697130d24_o.jpg

There are four connectors and a ground located in a lower section behind the ECU box that need to come out. Here is a shot down below of what we are working with.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3853/14980213285_7b7782efd4_o.jpg

The easiest way to release the connectors is to get a straight pick and wedge it between the connector and the outside leg, this will release the outside clip. With the outside clip push out pull up on the connector and it will pop free.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3913/14980530845_27c08afaa5_o.jpg

Next is the red ground wire, get a 10mm socket and remove the ground. A swivel might make it easier to take out.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5580/14793852219_ea8ce6292b_o.jpg

On the firewall we need to take a few things off. First is this brown ground wire on the drivers side, a 10mm socket will remove it.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3912/14980187202_9decd3245f_o.jpg

There is an electric line that runs from the harness down to the driverside radiator to a connection, this must be disconnected. Here is a shot of where it is located.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3872/14980530725_982518da0c_o.jpg

Time to remove both driver and passengerside connector holders on the firewall. These house the connectors for parts, such as the front and rear O2 sensors. Grab a 8mm socket and completely remove the two bolts on each holder.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5584/14793977317_dd42144fed_o.jpg

(driver side)

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3889/14977439961_28c14a0470_o.jpg

(passenger side)

And removed…

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3883/14793852039_bdfb7370c6_o.jpg

On the passenger side you will notice this black connector does not come out with the wiring harness and must be disconnected

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5579/14793928988_4e5689b03a_o.jpg

This connector on the vac-line (shown here as the EVAP sensor; the other end is connected to the rear of the intake manifold) must also be disconnected.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5587/14793858380_29679cccaa_o.jpg

Let’s go back to the battery wiring, grab your positive terminal and snake it through the fire wall hole.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3910/14793858370_efc6e18d6e_o.jpg

Here is an aerial shot of how the positive wire is run down to the bottom of the motor. Notice how it sits below the airbox and runs behind the passenger aide auxiliary radiator.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3846/14793928948_8242b9d28f_o.jpg

Take notice to another black piece of wiring that is running down this side with the battery wire, this must be removed.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5588/14794865759_99161072c8_o.jpg

As you can tell the aux radiator leaves little room to snake these wires through so we must unbolt the top of the radiator to make some room. Grab a TORX30 and remove this bolt.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3917/14794873900_055bde7523_o.jpg

With that bolt removed we can now slide the wires under the bracket and in front of the radiator

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3860/14958547496_1d349e1dee_o.jpg

Now we can crouch down and look where these wires run under the frame rail, disconnect the black connector for the black wire that we just snaked in front of the radiator. Take notice to the large ground wire in the back, get a 13mm socket and extension and remove this while you are there.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5559/14978447141_45337b7e0b_o.jpg

Remove the clips holding the positive battery terminal line to the frame, they are shown below. There also might be a few zip ties holding some wires on, remove them accordingly. Once done you should be able to wrap the battery line up onto the manifold for removal.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3884/14794865719_26bd86ce73_o.jpg

With all of the wiring components should be free, stack all of the wiring on top of the motor, neatly for removal.

------ END OF PHASE FIVE ------

Phase 6: Dropping the Shifter Box
Difficulty: 3
Time: 45 Minutes

Okay let’s get in the car and prep the shifter box to be dropped so we can pull it out with the motor and trans.

Remove the shift boot from the shifter surround. Pinch inward on both sides (pinch the boot, not the chrome surround) to free the boot from the surround.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5568/14959928316_825a6a9ff9_o.jpg

Pull the boot upward like shown below.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3883/14796380847_e264099668_o.jpg

The boot is held on by a clip, undo this one time clip and replace with a new one

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3870/14982570252_c35fde137b_o.jpg

Removed.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3840/14982570292_053b22a6ac_o.jpg

Pop off the shifter surround trim, it is held on by 4 clips, 1 on each corner. Reach under it and pop it up.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3865/14959928266_b19e2d3b5d_o.jpg

Notice the 2 foam pieces inside the shifter box, grab the back piece of foam and pull it out.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3919/14866561797_dc568ab883_o.jpg

Grab the front piece of foam and remove it.
Make note of the orientation of the foam piece for reassembly.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5578/15030116636_bf89d596eb_o.jpg

We are almost to the shifter assembly, remove the next layer of padding from the shifter box.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5578/14866447900_71309a4013_o.jpg

After removing this piece of padding you will reveal yet another cover held on by two 10mm bolts, grab your 1/4" ratchet, 6"+ extension and 10mm socket and remove these two bolts.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3912/14866447860_b088eda536_o.jpg

Once the bolts are out, remove the cover.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3878/14866528230_1ee0a80cdd_o.jpg

Now you have access to the shifter assembly. To get a little bit more room for the rear bolts, loosen up the ashtray; it is not necessary to remove.
I did my install without removing the ashtray. It is up to you whether or not you want to remove it or not.

Grab your 1/4" ratchet, 6"+ extension, 8mm socket and remove those two bolts.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5592/15053197965_26930d77fd_o.jpg

Once the ashtray is loose, tilt it upward to give yourself some room to work. If you have the patience and finesse you can also take the ashtray out, but it is a real pain and not necessary.

Now we have a view of the whole shifter box from above, grab your 10 socket and take note to the 4 10mm bolts. They are holding the shifter box onto the center console, remove them.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5555/15053197945_abf142e308_o.jpg

With those bolts removed you can push down on the shifter box to break away the seal that is holding it to the console. It won’t drop down completely, as there is a shield that has to be removed from under the car. We will come to that in the next section

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3866/14866528960_cab858dfca_o.jpg

------ END OF PHASE SIX ------

Phase 7: Final Components and Engine Pull
Difficulty: 8
Time: 2-3 Hours

First up is the main drive-shift. It is easier if you have a friend helping you with this part, or else you will have to repeatedly crawl out from under the car to release and set the e-brake.

There are six 6mm hex bolts holding the drive shaft to the transmission. Shift the drive shaft in a good position to loosen the bolts and pull the e-brake handle up to lock it into place, this will prevent it from spinning while breaking the bolts loose.
*** I find it easy if you position the drive shaft to where you can loosen two bolts at once ***
*** Repeat above until all six bolts are out ***

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3856/15030357806_e2e8571a0f_b.jpg

Once the bolts are out, break the seal from the shaft and the transmission. To do so, grab a rubber mallet, gently tap the outer section of the gold mount until loose.
*** Continue to tap while spinning the drive shaft to break the seal all the way around, leave the e-brake off to allow it to spin freely ***

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5582/15053357525_6f5755b137_b.jpg

Remember how we dropped the shifter box in the last section? Now we need to remove that shield we were talking about.
There are four 10mm bolts holding the shield on, their positions are outlined. Remove all four screws and take this section out.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5588/14866803017_1c4af48431_o.jpg

With the shield out we can see the shifter box from under the car, it can now drop down and come out with the transmission.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3855/15050299531_76aa394e46_b.jpg

Now it is time to take off the front drive axles. It is necessary to take these off when pulling the motor due to clearance issues, remove your front wheels from the car to expose the suspension components.

There are several ways to go about this. I recommend breaking loose but not removing the massive HEX 17 nut that bolts into the drive shaft. To keep the axle shafts from spinning, insert one of your wheel lugs into the hub. This bolt is very tough to break; I recommend a long pipe to put on the end for extra leverage. When ready, spin it counter-clockwise to break it loose. Once loose, keep it in there and do not remove. We want to take the inner shaft triple square bolts out first.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5568/14866620199_372ff19e8d_o.jpg

Grab a 110 triple square and locate the inner drive shaft bolts, they bolt the shaft to the transmission. There are 6 per side, remove these and the shaft will come free of the transmission.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5562/14866766528_2e30b8815a_b.jpg

Now you can remove the large 17MM Hex bolt from the hub, note the shaft is still in the hub. To pop it out, grab a large deep socket to insert into the hub again to sit the end of the drive shaft. Grab a rubber mallet and give the shaft a few good hits to pop it free. Once loose, remove it from the car. Repeat the process for the other side.

*** If for any reason you decided to take your rotors during this DIY you can still get the drive shafts loose. You will simply need to hold the hub during the inner and outer bolt remove with a large monkey wrench while a friend loosens the bolts. Again, just another way to prevent the shaft from spinning if you for some reason took the rotors off ***

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5551/15030775316_a8a7303f1b_o.jpg

Next, loosen the cross member, it is the cast aluminum piece that runs above the downpipes. Grab a 13mm socket and remove the three bolts holding the upper plate to the transmission.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3898/14867042309_6e98180f72_o.jpg

Grab a 18mm socket and a larger breaker bar. There are six 18mm bolts that need to come off, three per side.
*** I recommend the breaker bar because these things are on tight ***

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3867/14867042369_3d2f0076cf_b.jpg

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3844/14867218367_01de81dded_o.jpg

The transmission will begin to sag when taking the bolts out, it is okay as it will rest on the sub frame. If you feel un-easy, prop a jack stand underneath to support the transmission. With the cross member free you can either pull it out if you can wiggle it free or simply left it rest on the downpipes till we remove the motor.

Time to get your engine hoist ready. For this pull I had the boom all the way in to the 1/2 ton setting. This setting is nice if you have clearance issues with a ceiling, I had no problems hoisting the motor out on this notch.

Grab your chain and hooks, there are two engine lift points we will be using. One is very simple to spot, it is sticking out on the drivers front side of the manifold. Anchor your hook and attach it to your chain.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5556/15053776925_d404da5117_o.jpg

The next lift point is on the back left side of the manifold, it is kind of buried to the left of the throttle body and the check valve. Locate it and repeat the last step.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3899/14867190058_770504dd2e_o.jpg

Attach the chain to your boom and put on pressure on the motor, DO NOT LIFT as the motor mounts still need to be un-done.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5583/14867386510_613a25f687_b.jpg

Grab a 13mm deep socket and get under the motor mounts. The drivers side will only have one 13mm bolt, remove it.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5586/15031054386_9057f39761_o.jpg

The passenger side will have two 13mm bolts, 1 under the other as the top is holding on a bracket. Remove the first along with the bracket and then remove the second

http://i456.photobucket.com/albums/q...l/P1000611.jpg

–pic was never transferred over

*** GET HELP FOR THIS PART! ***

Now, this is the part where you will need some assistance. I recommend having a friend under the car guiding the trans and shifter box out, have another friend guide the top of the motor while you man the hoist. Begin to jack the engine up while having your friends make sure everything is clear. Once free of the motor mounts, you should be able to pull the engine forward a bit.

*** STOP! DON’T PULL IT OUT TOO FAR! ***

We still have to disconnect the rear coolant line on the back of the motor and the slave cylinder, make sure the motor is a good 6-8 inches out from the firewall to access these two components. Here is what you should be looking at:

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5592/14867468458_10ecae9f26_b.jpg

Note the coolant line, it is held onto the connector via a spring clip. Grab a flat head and pop this clip out, this will allow you to pull the coolant line free of the motor.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3856/15050994961_c6bbaef611_b.jpg

Lastly, we have the slave cylinder. Some people recommend disconnecting the hard line and re-bleeding later, I feel this is more difficult and a longer approach. I suggest simply unbolting it via the 6mm hex bolt shown and popping it free. When the 6mm HEX is out, you can pull backward on the slave and it will pop free, make sure the gear is in neutral or 4th to give you more room.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3892/14867320799_4a732c21dd_b.jpg

And removed

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3840/15031054306_b59b14d01a_b.jpg

Now every component is free and the motor is able to come out. This part will take some finesse and patience. You will be able to wiggle and guide the motor out, it just take a little bit of time and team work.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3844/14867496707_8529884882_o.jpg

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3837/14867468408_2f0c8db5a0_o.jpg

And out of the car!

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5568/14867386420_d7deaef6c2_o.jpg

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5580/14867468388_b494f920b6_o.jpg

And there you have it ladies and gentlemen, the longest and most comprehensive DIY I have put together to date. It was surely time consuming and challenging to document all of this, but it was worth it for the benefit of the community. I hope all of you can take this article and put it to some use; make a fun day or weekend out of it and have some fun, learn about your car, and save some money.

I hope you enjoy it as much as I have.

Joey Cuccaro

------ END OF PHASE SEVEN ------

1 Like

SUPPLEMENTAL ONE: ECU REMOVAL

This supplemental section will show you how to get the ECU out of the factory chastity belt.

The ECU is locked into the chastity belt as shown below. It is held there by the two flat bolts on the end, Audi uses these bolts so nobody can tamper with the ECU.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3892/14793535439_decdaae4fc_o.jpg

To get the ECU out, we need to cut out slits into the bolts (black arrows above). These slits will allow us to use a flat head screwdriver to crack the bolts loose.

Here is something you should use for grind slits in the bolts.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3855/14977123101_03a913ded3_o.jpg

With the Chasity belt and ECU holder out we can disconnect the ECU from the electrical harness.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3855/14793661407_0b9859c767_o.jpg

To remove the rear connectors simply pull out on each of the side tabs and they will pop off

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5571/14793614758_8276747acd_o.jpg

------ END OF SUPPLEMENTAL ONE ------

SUPPLEMENTAL TWO: JHM HEADERS

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5591/14868048158_3a6a7796da_o.jpg

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3923/15051580011_7a7a6cab31_o.jpg

Drivers Side: To install the headers on the drivers side you will need to remove the main coolant line. Some of the bolts are tricky and will require finesse, patience and special tooks like crows feet. All header bolts are 10mm.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3881/14867972270_e9af357dbd_o.jpg

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5574/14867972260_00de2f684e_o.jpg

Passenger side: Again, main coolant line must be removed. Belt, belt tensioners, and alternator must all be removed to install the header on this side.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3883/15031634446_cf9c14e214_o.jpg

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3914/15051579881_9ddfb573b2_o.jpg

Stock Manifold vs JHM Headers
The headers are a true piece of art that everyone should appreciate

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3882/14867984469_80530a76d6_o.jpg

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3894/15031634426_cc133020cd_o.jpg

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5555/14868047998_bfd22847f3_o.jpg

------ END OF SUPPLEMENTAL TWO ------

*** PLEASE NOTE ***

The original DIY was written and posted on EuroAddiction.net by Joey Cuccaro as a reference guide for our community. Due to unknown reasons, the EA forum was taken offline and this DIY along with it. A few members, myself included, were fortunate enough to save the original as PDF or posses the link to an online archived version for personal reference. As a beit to the community, it was more advantageous to submit the original as a DIY thread for all to use as they see fit.

Be advise, I did my best to host ALL pics from the original so there are one or two pictures missing due to EA being taken offline. I also made things a little simpler by hotlinking individual phases for ease of use versus scrolling through the entire DIY just to get to a particular phase.

Enjoy

TO BE DELETED

TO BE DELETED

TO BE DELETED

TO BE DELETED

TO BE DELETED

Good save slow4. Thanks. This is a great write up.

Did anyone save/re-host the photos? In case his flickr changes or something…that’d be a good idea.

I have an annual membership to Flickr so it’l be there for a minute…I also have the pictures saved on my MB in case something happens.

Oh you got the pics? Cool. I meant Joey. I don’t even know if he’s on audi forums anymore.