DIY - Coolant tank - B6/7 S4 and B7 RS4

Why: It is a common step to loosen up the coolant tank for other repairs. Also the coolant tanks tend to discolor from clear to a yellowish tint and crack causing a coolant leak.

Parts required:
Coolant tank - if replacing
Rubber end cap - if just disconnecting the coolant tank to make more room.

Previous Steps required:
Drain coolant - if replacing the coolant tank. http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=2941.0

Tools Required:
Philips screwdriver
Pliers
Locking flat pliers or plastic coolant line clamping tool

Steps:

  1. Open hood after waiting for the engine to cool down if the car has been driven recently.
  2. if there is a big cover over the driver’s side of the engine compartmentk like in the picture below then it needs to be removed. It just pulls out.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3240/2617144656_5a42f400fd_b.jpg

  1. Loosen the blue cap slowly for the coolant tank to relieve any pressure in the cooling system. When the cap opens far enough that it sounds like air is escaping then stop turning it and wait for the pressure to bleed off. Then fully loosen the blue cap.
  2. I like to disconnect the line on the left side of the coolant tank so that it can be moved out of the way for more room while performing other repairs. To do that the line needs to be clamped off so that coolant doesn’t leak all over the back of the engine, then loosen the spring clamp and slide it down the hose, next slide the hose off the coolant tank, and cap the end of the nipple for the coolant tank so that coolant does not spill out.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140902_185317_zpsfe78c0f8.jpg

4a. If the coolant tank is being replaced then the front lower coolant line needs to disconnected. There is a simple spring clamp that holds the line on so just loosen the clamp, move it down the coolant line, and slide the line off the coolant tank.

  1. Loosen the Philips screw at the right front corner of the coolant tank. The picture below is from an A4 but the screw is in the same place.

http://www.a4mods.com/pics/oilchange/IMG_0399.JPG

  1. Lift up on the front of the coolant tank and pull it back so that the plastic tabs at the front of the tank come out of the car body.

Here are some pictures of the tabs on the back of the coolant tank and where they go into the body.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20141105_152451_resized_zpsc57c7192.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20141105_152458_resized_zps1456e6b6.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20141105_152446_resized_zps6e596af3.jpg

  1. Once the coolant tank is free, there is a electrical connector on the bottom for the coolant level sensor that needs to be disconnected. In the bottom of the below picture the electrical connector is visible along with cracks along side the bottom of the coolant tank.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v167/dicksongo/DIC_3090.jpg

8a. If the coolant tank is just being moved to allow more room then I like to move it over to above the ABS module to make a bunch more room.
8b. If the coolant tank is being replaced then remove it from the car and try not to spill too much remaining coolant.

  1. Put everything back into place and top off with fresh coolant/water. If the low coolant light comes on when starting the car then reconnect the electrical connector under the coolant tank.

Update: added link to coolant drain DIY and pictures of tabs on the back of the coolant tank and where they go into the body.