You say the gaskets go under the intake spacers. From what I was told and seen on my 3.0 A6, the only gasket is like an orange o-ring gasket basically that sits inside a groove of the intake manifold. Is there some other gasket that I am missing?
There should be 4 metal gaskets that go on the bottom and the top of the spacers on each side of the manifold. At least thats what came with mine spacers that I just recieved from JHM.
Hey guys, I’ve developed a coolant leak and I found out that the shitty vacuum hose caps I put on my coolant stems were the cause. The one I had on there had dry rotted to the point that it was letting coolant out at a pretty fast rate. So yeah, use something that won’t dry rot 
I’m still figuring out what I’m going to put there for a permanent solution. I will update.
Edit: I picked up a 1/4" silicone vacuum cap from 034:
http://www.034motorsport.com/hardware-fittings-hoses-an-rubber-and-vac-hose-silicone-vacuum-nipple-caps-p-359.html
Hey Komesh, where were you seeing the leaks come from?
I just recently purchased a new intake valve actuator for my 3.0 since it has been broken for some time. I have also been fighting two lean codes (One for each bank) so I figure I will attack the PCV lines and the intake manifold gasket at the same time. I plan to replace the PCV lines with heater hose of the appropriate size.
Now in regards to the actuator, I want to remove the intake manifold to both replace the gaskets as I believe they are causing the lean codes (or a combination of that and the PCV lines) and so I can easily install the new intake drive actuator. Is removing the intake manifold as easy as removing the fuel rails, removing the air intake from the throttle body and then removing all 12 intake manifold screws? I thought it was gonna be a little more than that, but if thats the case, I’m pretty excited for a easy repair.
There is much much more then that. There are the vacuum lines on the back face of the manifold on the top. There are the vac lines and electronic connections on the front of the manifold. Obviously the pcv system needs to be removed. Don’t remove the fuel rail. Just remove the feed line. The write up on the first page is pretty close but with a little more complications here and there
Yeah i left out the vacuum lines and eletrical connects as they’re trivial. Why would I disconnect the fuel rails instead of just popping the injectors and rails out in one shop? Its easier to unplug the connectors once the rail is upside down anyway. It would give me the ability to replace the injector cups and o rings too, something else that could be causing my lean codes.
I just recently purchased a new intake valve actuator for my 3.0 since it has been broken for some time. I have also been fighting two lean codes (One for each bank) so I figure I will attack the PCV lines and the intake manifold gasket at the same time. I plan to replace the PCV lines with heater hose of the appropriate size.
Now in regards to the actuator, I want to remove the intake manifold to both replace the gaskets as I believe they are causing the lean codes (or a combination of that and the PCV lines) and so I can easily install the new intake drive actuator. Is removing the intake manifold as easy as removing the fuel rails, removing the air intake from the throttle body and then removing all 12 intake manifold screws? I thought it was gonna be a little more than that, but if thats the case, I’m pretty excited for a easy repair.
There is much much more then that. There are the vacuum lines on the back face of the manifold on the top. There are the vac lines and electronic connections on the front of the manifold. Obviously the pcv system needs to be removed. Don’t remove the fuel rail. Just remove the feed line. The write up on the first page is pretty close but with a little more complications here and there
Yeah i left out the vacuum lines and eletrical connects as they’re trivial. Why would I disconnect the fuel rails instead of just popping the injectors and rails out in one shop? Its easier to unplug the connectors once the rail is upside down anyway. It would give me the ability to replace the injector cups and o rings too, something else that could be causing my lean codes.
If your looking to change get the injector cups and o rings you would want to remove them. I find if you didn’t want to replace those parts that you will more likely break some of the injector baskets and mess up the o rings. So it’s just a way to prevent possibly breaking any more parts.
So after doing additional research, I found the 3.0 does not have injector seats. The injectors just sit in the manifold. Either way. I will be pulling the manifold off in the coming weeks to change my intake runner, so I will be taking additional pictures for everyones reference! 8)
If your looking to change get the injector cups and o rings you would want to remove them. I find if you didn’t want to replace those parts that you will more likely break some of the injector baskets and mess up the o rings. So it’s just a way to prevent possibly breaking any more parts.
That will be helpful. Thanks for the post. I was trying to understand originally what you were talking about in your first post. I was thinking I’m not sure what he is looking to replace
So after doing additional research, I found the 3.0 does not have injector seats. The injectors just sit in the manifold. Either way. I will be pulling the manifold off in the coming weeks to change my intake runner, so I will be taking additional pictures for everyones reference! 8)
That will be helpful. Thanks for the post. I was trying to understand originally what you were talking about in your first post. I was thinking I’m not sure what he is looking to replace
Well, the pictures I took do not add anything additional to this thread. However, after pulling my manifold, switching out my injector o-rings, fuel filter, intake manifold gasket, and the intake runner, my car is running better than ever. My fuel trims prove that one of these repairs fixes the issues I had been having. I have about 70 miles on the car with no CEL and before, the CEL was tripping every 25 or so miles. I plan to drive the car every day this week so I can get it fully up to temp so that my readiness monitors can set and so I can get the car inspected. I only work .7 miles from home, so I will simply be out cruising for fun every morning before work. We are looking at quite a bit of snow this week here in Philly, so I dont mind crusing ;D.
Look how much gunk was on my injectors. The car has 131K on it with pretty intensive service records to 90k and I bought it with 99K. Since I’ve owned it, I’ve kept up with service and have even done a few BG44K services. My intake ports were pretty gunky from all of that moist black carbon that we find on the intake actuator valve. Heres to hoping my problems are fixed!
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/25/acea37d28c1f4a2b89dff6585ff048da.jpg
^ Truly a case of “a picture is worth 1000 words”!
You’re telling me! Tbh, i dont think my intake manifold gaskets were leaking. I think my issues were coming from the broken drivers side pcv and the fuel injector orings. Just looking at that gunk its safe to assume air was making its way past the o-rings. Oh well. I gave her another cold start this morning and got it up to temp. I think I need 2 more full heat cycle drives for my monitors to all reset. Plus, I get my china vcds cable today, so I will probably be registering vcds lite to see what I can do.
Well, the pictures I took do not add anything additional to this thread. However, after pulling my manifold, switching out my injector o-rings, fuel filter, intake manifold gasket, and the intake runner, my car is running better than ever. My fuel trims prove that one of these repairs fixes the issues I had been having. I have about 70 miles on the car with no CEL and before, the CEL was tripping every 25 or so miles. I plan to drive the car every day this week so I can get it fully up to temp so that my readiness monitors can set and so I can get the car inspected. I only work .7 miles from home, so I will simply be out cruising for fun every morning before work. We are looking at quite a bit of snow this week here in Philly, so I dont mind crusing ;D.
Look how much gunk was on my injectors. The car has 131K on it with pretty intensive service records to 90k and I bought it with 99K. Since I’ve owned it, I’ve kept up with service and have even done a few BG44K services. My intake ports were pretty gunky from all of that moist black carbon that we find on the intake actuator valve. Heres to hoping my problems are fixed!
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/25/acea37d28c1f4a2b89dff6585ff048da.jpg