DIY: Intake Manifold Spacers + SAI Delete + Throttle Body Heater Bypass

B6 A4
#21

If you already have a JHM tune, they’ll probably add the SAI bit free of charge. You’ll still need to remove & cap off the whole system though, and that’s a bit of a pain but nothing too bad.

#22

In an effort to get my car running less like a POS I’m going to remove the SAI system, I don’t want to do the TB heater bypass though due to cold weather in my area. Which part is the TB bypass so I don’t accidently do it?

#23

TB heater bypass is fine for cold climates. JHM just says they don’t recommend it for liability reasons. I have it in my S which sees 5 degree temps fairly often.

#24

Lol hoping to ACTUALLY do this on the weekend (sai removal). do you have to take the intake off to do it? and at what point do you actually take out the pump? All I see from the notes is removing piping for it.

#25

Aaaaanyone? This thing is going to stop running one way or another tomorrow ;D. Even if I can’t pull it out I just want to disconnect the power to it. The tube going from the airbox to the sai is obviously one end of the sai loop, which I have capped off.

Is the other end the rubber tube that you put the cap on near the intake manifold? I know there’s a couple writeups on vacuum and sai removal for 1.8s that go into more detail but I’m not sure which parts match up to our cars.

Alternatively, maybe when I take some time tomorrow to pull everything off it will make more sense. I just don’t want to remove TOO many things and get myself into trouble

#26

Hey Meistah

Do these pictures help, at least you can see what you are trying to get at. Let me know if you want me to snap off another for you.

http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/931642532.jpg

http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/726286631.jpg

http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/183940508.jpg

#27

Oh sweet… sort of lol, is that the back of the engine?

#28

Yeah that is the back of the engine…

#29

How did you go with blocking off the SAI?

#30

lol doing it this evening… I’m not sure. My thought was to just unplug the pump and cap off the ends. I might try to get a more mechanically inclined person to lend a hand so we make sure the whole system is taken out of the equation.

#31

You say the gaskets go under the intake spacers. From what I was told and seen on my 3.0 A6, the only gasket is like an orange o-ring gasket basically that sits inside a groove of the intake manifold. Is there some other gasket that I am missing?

#32

There should be 4 metal gaskets that go on the bottom and the top of the spacers on each side of the manifold. At least thats what came with mine spacers that I just recieved from JHM.

#33

Hey guys, I’ve developed a coolant leak and I found out that the shitty vacuum hose caps I put on my coolant stems were the cause. The one I had on there had dry rotted to the point that it was letting coolant out at a pretty fast rate. So yeah, use something that won’t dry rot :slight_smile: I’m still figuring out what I’m going to put there for a permanent solution. I will update.

Edit: I picked up a 1/4" silicone vacuum cap from 034:
http://www.034motorsport.com/hardware-fittings-hoses-an-rubber-and-vac-hose-silicone-vacuum-nipple-caps-p-359.html

#34

Hey Komesh, where were you seeing the leaks come from?

#35

I just recently purchased a new intake valve actuator for my 3.0 since it has been broken for some time. I have also been fighting two lean codes (One for each bank) so I figure I will attack the PCV lines and the intake manifold gasket at the same time. I plan to replace the PCV lines with heater hose of the appropriate size.

Now in regards to the actuator, I want to remove the intake manifold to both replace the gaskets as I believe they are causing the lean codes (or a combination of that and the PCV lines) and so I can easily install the new intake drive actuator. Is removing the intake manifold as easy as removing the fuel rails, removing the air intake from the throttle body and then removing all 12 intake manifold screws? I thought it was gonna be a little more than that, but if thats the case, I’m pretty excited for a easy repair.

#36

There is much much more then that. There are the vacuum lines on the back face of the manifold on the top. There are the vac lines and electronic connections on the front of the manifold. Obviously the pcv system needs to be removed. Don’t remove the fuel rail. Just remove the feed line. The write up on the first page is pretty close but with a little more complications here and there

#37

Yeah i left out the vacuum lines and eletrical connects as they’re trivial. Why would I disconnect the fuel rails instead of just popping the injectors and rails out in one shop? Its easier to unplug the connectors once the rail is upside down anyway. It would give me the ability to replace the injector cups and o rings too, something else that could be causing my lean codes.

#38

I just recently purchased a new intake valve actuator for my 3.0 since it has been broken for some time. I have also been fighting two lean codes (One for each bank) so I figure I will attack the PCV lines and the intake manifold gasket at the same time. I plan to replace the PCV lines with heater hose of the appropriate size.

Now in regards to the actuator, I want to remove the intake manifold to both replace the gaskets as I believe they are causing the lean codes (or a combination of that and the PCV lines) and so I can easily install the new intake drive actuator. Is removing the intake manifold as easy as removing the fuel rails, removing the air intake from the throttle body and then removing all 12 intake manifold screws? I thought it was gonna be a little more than that, but if thats the case, I’m pretty excited for a easy repair.

#39

There is much much more then that. There are the vacuum lines on the back face of the manifold on the top. There are the vac lines and electronic connections on the front of the manifold. Obviously the pcv system needs to be removed. Don’t remove the fuel rail. Just remove the feed line. The write up on the first page is pretty close but with a little more complications here and there

#40

Yeah i left out the vacuum lines and eletrical connects as they’re trivial. Why would I disconnect the fuel rails instead of just popping the injectors and rails out in one shop? Its easier to unplug the connectors once the rail is upside down anyway. It would give me the ability to replace the injector cups and o rings too, something else that could be causing my lean codes.