DIY - Manual Transmission and Clutch/Flywheel - B6/7 S4

DIY/TECH/INFORMATIVE
#1

Why: 1. Clutches and the manual transmission internals wear out.
2. The B6 S4 dual mass flywheels fail and separate which can cause massive damage.
3. Required step for other much bigger repairs and/or some modifications.

Symptoms that your car may need this kind of repairs:

  1. Clutch pedal does not feel smooth all the way through its travel. For instance it gets really hard when you push the pedal to the floor or the clutch pedal does not return properly. It may stick about half way on the way back up.
  2. If it is difficult to get into gears with the engine running and the clutch pedal pushed all the way to the floor.
  3. You are in first gear or reverse gear with the clutch pedal pushed all the way down and when you let off the brake pedal then the car moves in that direction.
  4. If when you mash the gas pedal and the engine rpms go really high but the car doesn’t accelerate accordingly. Usually tested in sixth gear and starting at like 35 mph.
  5. You hear noises when you change gears like grinding or clunks.
  6. If you can’t get into a certain gear at all. Probably second or third gear.
  7. If there is a really bad vibration when the engine running and all your drivetrain mounts are okay.

Symptoms 1-4 are usually caused by a worn out clutch.
Symptoms 5 and 6 are usually caused by worn out manual transmission internals
Symptom 7 is usually caused by a B6 S4 dual mass flywheel separating/failing.

Previous Steps Required:

  1. Battery disconnect - http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=2916.0
  2. Remove the MAF boot and top half of the engine air box - http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=2919.0
  3. Loosen the coolant tank so that it can be moved around for clearance - http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=2921.0
  4. Remove both front oxygen sensors - http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=2970.0
  5. Remove the belly pans - if present - http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=2922.0
  6. Remove axle heat shields, and disconnect front axle inner CV joints from transmission or remove front axles - http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=3016.0

Note #1: If you lower the back of the transmission and tranny crossmember while performing the required previous step #6 then you need to bolt it back into place.

  1. Disconnect both rear oxygen sensor bodies from the exhaust downpipes - http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=2970.0
  2. Remove the exhaust downpipes - http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=2978.0
  3. Remove front sway bar - http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=2976.0

Note #2: Certain steps will overlap from those links a bit but that is okay. Like jacking up the front end of the car or opening the hood for instance.

Note #3: For this repair you really want the front end of the car as high of the ground as you can get it to be able to get the transmission out from under the car.

Note #4: Always have the car supported by jack stands. Ideally there would be a jack stand under each side of the front of the car where the pinch welds are.

Safety Equipment needed:

  1. Safety glasses
  2. Disposable gloves - either Latex or Nitrate
  3. Respirator or dust mask

Note #5: Make sure that if you are replacing the flywheel and clutch with OEM parts that you get all 2007 or newer B7 S4 parts. I say this because the B7 S4 dual mass flywheels are updated from the B6 S4s that tend to separate and fail. Also the B7 S4 pressure plates have more clamping force then the B6 S4 pressure plates. Thus the B6 S4 and B7 S4 clutch components do not mix and match so that is why I say that you need to get all B7 S4 parts. Think of it as an upgrade if you have a B6 S4!

Parts Required:

  1. Manual Transmission
  2. Clutch kit - clutch disc, pressure plate, throw-out bearing, and x6 pressure plate bolts
  3. High temp clutch grease
  4. Flywheel and x8 flywheel bolts
  5. Locktite - Blue or Red
  6. Long zip tie cable tie
  7. Can of brake cleaner
  8. Disposable rags or towels - preferably the blue towels from local auto parts stores
  9. Something to mark bolts with like a sharpie, white-out, etc
  10. Silicone spray
  11. Anti-seize

Parts that break easily or may already be broken during this repair:

  1. Clutch slave cylinder

Recommended upgrade/better parts and other modifications:

JHM parts:

  1. Lightweight flywheel
  2. Clutch kit
    -----2a. Stage 3 or 4 clutch kit - These kits are recommended if you are planning on staying stock or Naturally Aspirated. They use a B7 RS4 pressure plate that has a Self-Adjusting Clutch mechanism that keeps the stock pedal feel.
    -----2b. 1R/3R/5R clutch kit - These kits are recommended if you plan on having more power then being Naturally Aspirated like using Nitrous or being Supercharged. Also these kits use a pressure plate that does not have a Self-Adjusting Clutch mechanism and the pedal feel is a little stiffer but not much. A few people like me would rather not have a SAC system so the 1R is a really good fit for most owners that would consider getting the stage 3 or 4 clutch kits.
  3. Rebuilt transmission
  4. 4:1 center diff modification - for B6 S4s and early B7 S4s (2005.5)
  5. Shifter and linkage upgrades: short throw shifter, solid linkage, solid stabilizer rod bushings, HD linkage cross rod.
  6. Weighted shifter knob

034 Motorsports or Stern parts:

  1. Transmission mount
  2. x2 Engine mounts

Torque Specs:

  1. x3 13 mm engine mount nuts - 23 Nm

  2. x3 8 mm allen bolts to go into the bottom of the transmission from the engine side - 45 Nm

  3. x3 13 mm bolts that hold the transmission mount bracket to the bottom of the transmission - 23 Nm

  4. x2 T45 Torx bolts that hold the heat shield for the center driveshaft to the back of the transmission - 25 Nm

  5. x6 6 mm allen bolts that hold the center driveshaft to the back of the transmission - 55 Nm

  6. x1 10 mm bolt that holds the cross rod to the top of the transmission - 23 Nm

  7. x1 8 mm allen bolt that hold the stabilizer rod to the top of the transmission - 23 Nm

  8. x1 13 mm nut that holds the shift linkage to the selector shaft - 23 Nm and ideally it should be replaced.

  9. x1 6 mm allen or 8 mm triple square bolt that holds the clutch slave cylinder in place - 23 Nm and ideally it should be replaced.

  10. x1 5 mm allen bolt that holds the engine speed/rpm sensor to the front of the transmission bell housing - should be 10 Nm

  11. x7 transmission bell housing bolts and x1 nut for the lower starter/transmission bell housing bolt - 65 Nm

  12. The torqueing process for the pressure plate bolts on reinstall is as follows:
    A. Get all six bolts finger tight and it is strongly recommended to use blue locktite on the threads of these bolts.
    B. Slowly walk all six bolts down in slow 90 degree increments while going in a star pattern.
    C. Finally torque all six bolts to 22 Nm while going in a star pattern.

  13. x8 12 mm triple square flywheel bolts - 60 Nm + 90 degree turn while going in a star pattern, these bolts should be replaced, and it is strongly recommended to use blue locktite on the threads of these bolts.

Tools Required:

  1. Clutch alignment tool
  2. Floor jack
  3. x2 jack stands
  4. Transmission Jack - probably a low lift one like this:

http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_11238.jpg

  1. Spare small piece of wood
  2. Engine support bar

http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_11976.jpg

  1. 3/8" ratchets - it is helpful to have two. A stubby one and a longer/standard length one
  2. 3/8" wobble extensions
  3. 1/2" ratchet
  4. 1/2" extensions
  5. 1/2" breaker bar - preferably at least two feet long
  6. 1/2" to 3/8" step down adaptor socket
  7. 3/8" and 1/2" torque wrenches - click style is easiest but a digital style is great to have.
  8. 3/8" and 1/2 inch impact guns - very handy
  9. 10 mm 3/8" socket
  10. 13 mm 3/8" socket
  11. 16 mm 3/8" socket
  12. 18 mm 3/8" socket
  13. 18 mm 1/2" socket
  14. 5 mm allen 3/8" socket or key
  15. 6 mm allen 3/8" socket
  16. 8 mm allen 3/8" socket and key or stubby 3/8" socket
  17. T45 Torx 3/8" socket
  18. 12 mm triple square socket
  19. 10 mm wrench or shallow 3/8" socket
  20. Small 90 degree pick
  21. Hammer
  22. Long Prybar - 24 inches long
  23. Counterhold for flywheel - Audi/VW special tool number 10-201 - http://vw.snapon.com/SpecialToolsDetail.aspx?itemId=28540006
  24. Cutting tool of some kind - side cuts, knife, etc to cut the zip-tie/cable tie
  25. 8 mm triple square socket - may also be needed if you have a later B7

Steps:

  1. Check that your car has this engine eyelet behind the driver’s side rear portion of the intake manifold.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140902_181806_zpsb3cc850d.jpg

  1. Hook up the engine support bar to that engine eyelet. The triangular shaped feet of the support bar rest on the inside edges of the fenders. Make sure that the feet are as far to the outside as possible and then tighten them to the bar. I just use the straight hook to the engine eyelet and then turn the big wing nut until the engine wants to start being pulled up out of the car. /tight


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140902_182208_zps7a1d307f.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140902_182218_zps3375047f.jpg

  1. Use the floor jack with the piece of wood to support the front of the subframe. I am using a pole jack in this picture because I have a lift but it is same idea.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140902_183845_zpsb67fb61b.jpg

  1. Remove the three 13 mm nuts that hold secure the lower portion of the side engine mounts on. The passenger’s side engine mount has two nuts because there is a little metal bracket that secures some wiring for the starter and alternator in place. The driver’s side engine mount just has the one nut.

The torque spec for these nuts is 23 Nm.

Passenger’s side:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140902_183307_zpsc0331a6d.jpg

Driver’s side:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140902_183316_zps263203ab.jpg

  1. Remove the six 18 mm bolts that hold the front subframe brackets on. There is one bracket on each side. Two of the bolts are on the side of where the sway bar bolts on and the third one is behind where the sway bar bolts on. The bolts are circled in blue in the picture below. The brackets will come off once the three bolts are taken off on each side. Set the brackets and bolts off to the side because they will be going back in shortly.

Can not find torque spec for these bolts but they are torque to yield bolts so they should be replaced every time that they are loosened and then they need to be tightened very tight. Most people including myself do not replace these bolts most of the time and instead just tighten them until my big 1/2" ratchet stops.

http://sandbox.enjoybeing.net/diy/S4/motor-mounts/mount1.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140902_183822_zpsfeab6537.jpg

  1. Slowly lower the floor jack that is supporting the front of the subframe.
  2. There are three 8 mm allen bolts that go from the lower rear portion of the engine oil pan into the lower part of the transmission bell housing that need to be removed. It is a tight fit between the subframe and the bottom of the engine and transmission. So you have to drop the front of the subframe a little bit to get enough room. Most people can not get these bolts out without following the previous steps. I have removed these bolts without doing the previous steps and it is not worth the time and frustration - trust me. Also my car does not have these three bolts any more but that is not recommended.

The torque spec for these bolts is 45 Nm.

In this picture you can see the heads of the bolts from behind the subframe on the transmission side:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140902_183927_zps4bc13e01.jpg

This is not the best set of pictures because I couldn’t get a good flash but here is the heads of those bolts:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140902_183954_zpsf97b13a1.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140902_183945_zps3c4d5717.jpg

  1. You need to bolt the front of the subframe back up so do the reverse of the steps that you just did without putting the three 8 mm allen bolts back in of course.

  2. Use the floor jack with the piece of wood to support the middle of the transmission crossmember. I am using a pole jack in this picture because I have a lift but it is same idea.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_120808_resized_zpsab02a1cb.jpg

  1. Remove the six 18 mm bolts that hold the transmission crossmember to the body. There are three bolts on each side and these bolts are on tight usually.

Can not find torque spec for these bolts but they are torque to yield bolts so they should be replaced every time that they are loosened and then they need to be tightened very tight. Most people including myself do not replace these bolts most of the time and instead just tighten them until my big 1/2" ratchet stops.

Passenger’s side:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_120820_resized_zps365745ea.jpg

Driver’s side:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_120825_resized_zps23cd3f26.jpg

  1. Slowly lower the floor jack and transmission crossmember.
  2. Remove the three 13mm bolts that hold the transmission mount bracket and transmission crossmember to the bottom of the rear of the transmission. Be sure to hold the transmission crossmember while removing the last bolt.

The torque spec for these bolts is 23 Nm.

There are two bolts on the front portion of the bracket:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_121113_resized_zps638000b4.jpg

Then one bolt on the back portion of the bracket:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_121119_resized_zpsc7888ef0.jpg

  1. Move to the back of the transmission. Remove the lower center driveshaft heat shield on the back of the transmission. There are two T45 bolts that hold the cover on and these bolts are very long. Probably need to clean off the heat shield with brake clean.

The torque spec for these bolts is 25 Nm.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_114938_resized_zps8167750b.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_114923_resized_zps5c5dcb1b.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_114929_resized_zpsf79c399f.jpg

  1. Loosen the six 6 mm allen bolts that hold the driveshaft to the back of the transmission. These bolts can be a PITA and it is advised to use an impact gun. Otherwise you may have to use the parking brake to hold the rear wheels in place to stop the driveshaft from spinning. A really big set of channel locks may work too for holding the end of the driveshaft in place. I like to loosen/tighten three bolts at a time.

The torque spec for these bolts is 55 Nm.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_115534_resized_zps7b228895.jpg

  1. Disconnect the driveshaft from the back of the transmission. You have to push the joint back as you pull the end of the driveshaft to the side. The driveshaft may be stuck to the transmission because of corrosion so you can hit the joint on the end with a hammer to dislodge it. Only hit one spot a few times then spin the driveshaft, hit it a few times, then repeat spinning the driveshaft and hitting the joint until it is free. Once the driveshaft is separated from the back of the transmission then I like to use some disposable gloves to cover the ends because the CV joint fluid is some nasty stuff that takes a while to wash off.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_115559_resized_zps57668e82.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_115649_resized_zps1fbb6902.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_115706_resized_zps2cfa0992.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_115742_resized_zps55093653.jpg

#2
  1. Move to the passenger side of the transmission. Disconnect the reverse light switch electrical connector. This one tends to come off easy but you may need to use a pick to get it loose.
  2. Remove the 10 mm bolt that holds the end of the transmission cross rod to the passenger side of the transmission. It is right next to the reverse light switch and you can see it in the below picture that works for both steps 16 and 17.

The torque spec for this bolt is 23 Nm.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_121712_resized_zps810896b0.jpg

  1. Disconnect the transmission stabilizer rod from the top of the transmission on the passenger side. The bolt just needs to be loosened enough so that the arm is free to move around. It is a little farther back then the cross rod and the bolt is an 8 mm allen. There is very little room between the top of the bolt and the body of the car. So you need either an 8 mm allen key or a stubby allen socket and ratchet like what I have in the below picture. I personally like using a ratchet more so that is what I use.

The torque spec for this bolt is 40 Nm.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_121920_resized_zpsa4fd4276.jpg

  1. Move to the driver’s side of the transmission to disconnect the shift linkage of the transmission from the transmission. There is a 13 mm nut that holds the linkage rod to the selector shaft of the transmission. Once the nut is off then you can pop the linkage off the shaft. This may require a prybar because of corrosion especially if your car is from or you live in a salt state.

The torque spec for this nut is 23 Nm and the Bentley manual states that this nut should be replaced. I have never replaced this nut but if you want to then go right ahead.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_121705_resized_zps334b3431.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_122308_resized_zps1537c237.jpg

  1. Remove the 6 mm allen bolt (or 8 mm triple square bolt if you have later B7) from the bottom right corner of the slave cylinder. This bolt feels like it is a mile long by the way. Then you can remove the slave cylinder.

The torque spec for this bolt is 23 Nm and the Bentley manual says that it should be replaced. I have never replaced this bolt but if you want to then go right ahead.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_121647_resized_zps0281aa97.jpg

Note #6: If your slave cylinder comes out and it looks like this then you have a problem! If your slave comes out in pieces like this then you need to replace the slave cylinder. Make sure that you get the pin out if you can.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_122645_resized_zpsd07be420.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_122623_resized_zpsfc5d94c0.jpg

  1. Disconnect the engine speed/RPM sensor from the front of the bell housing on the driver’s side. There is a 5 mm allen bolt that holds it in place. Once the sensor is free then I like to stick it above the coolant line above where the sensor goes so that it is out of the way for removing the transmission.

The torque spec for this bolt should be 10 Nm.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_125240_resized_zpseacc4a14.jpg

Note #7: Double check to make sure that you have the battery disconnected. I like to mention this now because it is very scary if you start accidentally arch welding from touching the starter wiring with something metal.

Note #8: The bell housing bolts are on really tight usually.

Note #9: It is a great idea to mark the bell housing bolts to make it easy to remember where they go.

  1. Crack the lower left/driver’s side 18 mm transmission bell housing bolt loose. Just want to make sure that it is loose enough to spin easily. It is the bigger bolt more so on the bottom of the below picture that goes into the back of the engine.
  2. Remove the 16 mm transmission bell housing bolt just above the 18 mm one that was mentioned in the previous step. The picture below works for both steps 20 and 21.

The torque spec for these bolts is 65 Nm.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_123030_resized_zps02c5d36d.jpg

  1. Remove the upper left/driver’s side 16 mm bell housing bolt.

The torque spec for this bolt is 65 Nm.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_123040_resized_zps908d6301.jpg

  1. Move to the right/passenger’s side of the transmission. Remove the upper right/passenger’s side 16 mm bell housing bolt.

The torque spec for this bolt is 65 Nm.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_123018_resized_zps4c91acc4.jpg

  1. Remove the lower starter bolt and nut. I like to use a stubby 3/8" ratchet with a shallow 16 mm socket on the bolt head side under the starter and then a deep 18 mm socket with a long/standard length 3/8" ratchet on the nut side. If it is done correctly then you don’t have to hold the stubby ratchet.

The torque spec for this bolt and nut is 65 Nm.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_124415_resized_zps84076fd8.jpg

  1. Remove the two 16 mm bolts on the passenger side of the bell housing that are about half way between the top bolt and the lower starter bolt. One of these bolts is the top starter bolt and the other goes into the back of the engine. My picture is a little fuzzy but if you zoom in then you can see the bolts.

The torque spec for these bolts is 65 Nm.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_123001_resized_zps4d3a75fd.jpg

  1. I like to mark the transmission bell housing bolts with a sharpie to make it easier to remember where they go.

Going from left to right:
LB = Left Bottom
LM = Left Middle
LT = Left Top

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_144124_resized_zps5252dee0.jpg

Going from left to right:
S = Starter
RB = Right Bottom
RM = Right Middle
RT = Right Top

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_144151_resized_zps73b18f69.jpg

  1. Push the starter off the front of the transmission. It can just hang loose by the wiring.

  2. Free up the wiring for the rear oxygen sensors from the top of the transmission. You just have to pull it off the top of the transmission. I also like to move it around the passenger side inner CV joint of the axle.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_152331_resized_zps2a407556.jpg

  1. Get your transmission jack into place. I like to put the jack under the where the front and middle of the transmission are bolted together. Since that is where most of the weight is. Jack up the transmission a little bit, just make sure that the transmission is supported.

  2. Remove the lower left 18 mm bell housing bolt that was broken loose earlier.

  3. Rock the transmission off the engine. It just needs to go back far enough for the front of the transmission to clear the pressure plate and flywheel then it can be lowered out of the car. You may have to rock the transmission back, then lower it a little bit, then rock it back farther, and repeat until it is totally free. Make sure that nothing get snagged while removing the transmission. Once the transmission is totally off then you can remove it from under the car. If you are removing the transmission to do other big repairs and it is not going back in for a little while then I like to thread all the bolts and nuts that have been taken off so that why you don’t lose/misplace them.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_144506_resized_zpsd6d0b646.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_144516_resized_zps5c04322c.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_144457_resized_zps5416efcd.jpg

  1. Remove the spacer that goes between the transmission and the back of the engine.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_145203_resized_zpse2d57096.jpg

  1. I like to use a zip-tie or cable tie to hold the shift linkage, stabilizer rod, and clutch slave cylinder up out of the way.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_152325_resized_zps702304ab.jpg

Now we get to the fun part of dealing with the clutch and flywheel. There are a few ways to hold the flywheel and crank in place to remove the pressure plate and flywheel.
A. Use the flywheel counter-hold Audi special tool to hold flywheel in place.
B. Use the crank pin Audi special tool to hold the crankshaft in place.
C. Use a well placed prybar to hold flywheel in place.
D. Move the front end into service position to make enough room so that you can hold the crankshaft with a large ratchet or breaker bar and the crank turning Audi special tool.

I use the prybar method usually. I have never actually used the flywheel counter-hold special tool but it looks worth the $20.

  1. To use the prybar method: you want to put the metal prying part in the teeth on the side of the flywheel and then I jam the handle end of the prybar into the right front wheel bearing housing between the brake caliper and the wheel bearing housing. So that way everything is jammed into place and can’t move.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_152102_resized_zps34d44a47.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_152147_resized_zpsbef0c346.jpg


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  1. Put on your safety equipment. Disposable gloves, safety glasses, and respirator or dust mask. You don’t want to breathe in the dust from the clutch assembly especially if your clutch is totally shot and the dust can be irritating to your skin and eyes. Some clutch manufactures still use Asbestos in OEM clutches.

  2. Remove five of the six 6 mm allen pressure plate bolts and leave one bolt a few turns in. Ideally you should loosen them in slow 90 degree turn increments while going in a star pattern but if you are replacing the clutch and pressure plate then you can just remove them however you want. Once you have the five bolts out and the sixth one loosened then you can pop the pressure plate most of the way off the flywheel. I have found a flat head screwdriver or a prybar works well for this. Make sure to catch the clutch disc if it starts to fall to the ground. Watch out for a lot of dust, friction material, and crap to fall out.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_152859_resized_zps7f2db2bb.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/320600_1994556068602_1384455893_1690739_2098910797_n.jpg

The car that was used for this DIY had a worn clutch but it wasn’t totally gone so the clutch disc looked like this:
Pressure plate side:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_153144_resized_zpsa38d528a.jpg

Flywheel side:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_153153_resized_zpse19fc5d6.jpg

  1. Once you have the clutch disc out or whatever you could get out then go ahead and remove the last pressure plate bolt and pull off the pressure plate. Check out what your pressure plate looks like on the inside. This pressure plate was very badly hot spotted and you can see where it is discolored.

The torqueing process for these pressure plate bolts on reinstall is as follows:

  1. Get all six bolts finger tight with blue locktite applied to the threads of the bolts.
  2. Slowly walk all six bolts down in slow 90 degree increments while going in a star pattern.
  3. Finally torque all six bolts to 22 Nm.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_153135_resized_zps5d792180.jpg

  1. Take a look at your flywheel to see how hot spotted it is. I know not everyone is going to automatically replace their flywheel so now is a good time to check it out. Try turning the dual mass portion of the flywheel by hand. If you can spin that portion of the dual mass flywheel more than about a quarter of the way around then I strongly recommend replacing your dual mass flywheel.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_153203_resized_zps0bfc4dba.jpg

  1. Once you have inspected your flywheel and decided that you are going to replace it then you can loosen and then remove all eight 12 mm triple square flywheel bolts. Make sure that you hold the flywheel on while removing the last flywheel bolt. I say this because the flywheel weighs a good amount (26 to 26.5 pounds) and it hurts when it falls on you.

The torque spec for these bolts is 60 Nm + a 90 degree turn while going in a star pattern, the bolts should be replaced, and blue locktite should be applied to the threads of the bolts.

  1. Once you have the flywheel off then it is a good time to clean the back of the engine with brake clean and some rags or towels.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_153806_resized_zpsfde3df4a.jpg

  1. Go back to the transmission, more specifically the front of the bell housing. You want to hold the shift fork in place with one hand and pull the throw-out bearing off the shift fork with the other hand. Throw the old throw-out bearing away. Wipe off the input shaft sleeve with a rag/towel. Lube the input shaft sleeve with clutch grease. Install the new throw-out bearing on the input shaft sleeve and connect it to the shift fork. There are two little plastic retaining tabs that click onto the shift fork. Double check that the throw-out bearing is attached and can move freely by pulling the shift fork towards you and then pushing it back till it stops a few times.

  2. Reinstall is the reverse of the previous steps from step 42 back but there are some very important notes for reinstall below.

#3

Notes for reinstall:

  1. The flywheel only goes on one way because one of the bolt holes is offset. So you have to put the flywheel on the crankshaft and look at the holes to make sure that they are lined up. If all the bolt holes are not lined up then spin the flywheel and check that the holes are lined up until all eight holes line up.

  2. Clean the threads of the flywheel and pressure plate bolts with brake clean and a rag. Make sure to use locktite on the threads of the flywheel bolts and the pressure plate bolts. I use blue locktite when using the stock OEM flywheel and pressure plate. Or I use red locktite when using the JHM lightweight flywheel and the JHM clutch kits. THIS IS A VERY IMPORTANT STEP THAT CAUSES MOST OF THE PROBLEMS THAT PEOPLE HAVE WITH CLUTCH KITS REGARDLESS OF WHAT CLUTCH KIT YOU ARE USING!

  3. It is required to use the clutch alignment tool to get the clutch disc lined up correctly or you will never get the transmission input shaft to go on. To use the clutch alignment tool, you want to put the clutch disc on the alignment tool and then put the tool and clutch disc on the flywheel. Make sure that the clutch disc and tool stays on the flywheel and then put the pressure plate over it. I like to get the six pressure plate bolts in finger tight and hold the clutch alignment tool straight. Make sure that the clutch alignment tool goes in and out easily at different steps of tightening the pressure plate bolts. Once the pressure plate bolts are fully tightened and you can be sure that the clutch alignment tool goes in/out easily then you can remove the alignment tool.

  4. Once you get the pressure plate bolts in finger tight then you need to turn them in 90 degree increments while going in a star pattern until the bolts are tight enough to fully torque them. THIS IS A VERY IMPORTANT STEP THAT CAUSES MOST OF THE PROBLEMS THAT PEOPLE HAVE WITH CLUTCH KITS REGARDLESS OF WHAT CLUTCH KIT YOU ARE USING!

  5. Make sure that you put the spacer back on that goes between the transmission and the back of the engine. Otherwise you can damage stuff and the transmission will not be tight to the engine.

  6. Getting the clutch slave cylinder back in can be a major pain in the ass. I spray the clutch slave cylinder with silicone spray to lubricate it enough to get past the opening of the transmission. You have to get the pin and boot end of the clutch slave cylinder in the hole and then push the back of the clutch slave cylinder into the bell housing portion to compress the clutch slave cylinder. You should be able to push the clutch slave cylinder past where the bolt goes in and then it will come back once you release pressure on it. It can be fun to get the 6 mm allen bolt for the clutch slave cylinder in and you need to get it started by hand because the last thing that you want to do is damage those threads. If you have JHM headers then this portion of the repair becomes even more of a PITA.

Once you are confident that the clutch slave cylinder is in there and the bolt is tight then try pushing on the clutch pedal. It should go down and come back up nice and easy. If the pedal gets really hard then stop immediately! If you keep pushing down on the clutch pedal then you will shoot the pin out of the slave cylinder which is a major problem. Go back and remove the clutch slave cylinder, check that the pin is still attached to the clutch slave cylinder, and that the clutch slave cylinder is not leaking. Reinstall the clutch slave cylinder and try again pushing the clutch pedal. Repeat this process until when you can push on the clutch pedal where it goes down and comes back up smoothly and easily.

  1. Apply some anti-seize to the inside of the shift linkage. Where the shift linkage goes over the selector rod just behind the clutch slave cylinder. The shift linkages get stuck from corrosion so it is a good idea to apply the anti-seize.

  2. Route the rear oxygen sensor wiring over the top of the transmission and zip-tie/cable tie the wiring in place.

This is the appendix section to cover installing the JHM lightweight flywheel and clutch kit along with extra notes for the people that have JHM headers.

JHM Flywheel and Clutch kit pictures and notes:

Here is a shot of the JHM lightweight flywheel that we installed on the car used in this DIY. Man that thing is pretty.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140925_124234_resized_zps746b69d7.jpg

To install the lightweight flywheel there are some extra steps.

  1. Clean the JHM flywheel bolts with brake clean.
  2. Get the flywheel on the crank and get the holes line up.
  3. Use red locktite on the flywheel bolt threads, make sure that each bolt has washer on it, and get the bolts started by hand.
  4. Run the eight 8 mm allen bolts down by hand with an 8 mm allen socket.
  5. Turn the flywheel bolts in slow 90 degree increments while going in a star pattern until the flywheel is seated against the crankshaft.

Note #10: The reason that you want to slowly walk the flywheel on is because the JHM flywheel uses an interference fit for a very tight fit. So if you don’t slowly walk it on then it will be crooked and cause problems.

  1. Use a torque wrench and an 8 mm allen socket to tighten the flywheel bolts to 20 ft-lbs in a star pattern.
  2. Torque the flywheel bolts to 20 ft-lbs in a star pattern again.
  3. Fully torque the flywheel bolts to 65 ft-lbs in a star pattern.
  4. Torque the flywheel bolts to 65 ft-lbs in a star pattern again just to double check.

Here is a shot of the flywheel side of the JHM stage four clutch disc that was used on the car used for this DIY.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140925_124238_resized_zps9f9dd4f8.jpg

Here is a picture of the pressure plate of the JHM stage four clutch kit that was used on the car used for this DIY.

Installing the pressure plate is the same process as the OEM pressure plate but you need to clean the bolt threads, then use red locktite on the threads, and then the final torque spec is 23 ft-lbs for the pressure plate bolts.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140925_124318_resized_zpsa55bdb88.jpg

If you notice the splines of the clutch disc are not centered to the pressure plate fingers because I did not have the clutch alignment tool in place. Now try imaging trying to get the transmission input shaft in with the clutch disc like that. It is not going to happen.

Extra Notes for if your car has JHM Headers:

JHM has two different versions of their headers.

Most people have the version 1 headers like this:

https://jhmotorsports.com/products/pictures/mounts/JHM_Modified_Stern_Mount_INSTALLED.jpg

Take notice of how the headers go down the side of the transmission and then curve under the transmission.

Then there are the version 2 headers that look like this:

http://scontent-a.cdninstagram.com/hphotos-xaf1/t51.2885-15/10643853_778033068919511_99770747_a.jpg

These headers make getting the transmission out a lot easier because of the way that the mid-pipes attach. It looks like the mid-pipes start right behind where the axles bolt to the transmission.

So I took some pictures of the version 1 headers that are on my car to illustrate the differences between a car with headers and one without.

This is a picture of my mid-pipes that connect to the back of the headers. These mid-pipes are pretty easy to get off. Just disconnect the rear oxygen sensor bodies from the mid-pipes and let them hang down. Then if you have clamps on the back of the mid-pipes then those need to be loosened. I don’t have those clamps on my car because of exhaust is ceramic coated and it is such a tight fit that I don’t have to worry about the clamps, Finally loosen the v-band clamps that connect the mid-pipes to the back of the headers and pull the mid-pipes out.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20141125_140932_resized_zpsf84862cb.jpg

The front oxygen sensors connect to the bottom of the headers on each side and it is highly recommended that they are loosened when removing the transmission so that the wiring isn’t damaged.

Driver’s side:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20141125_141330_resized_zps38cfaf70.jpg

Passenger’s side:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20141125_141322_resized_zpsbc5ccbe2.jpg

Once the you get to the point of pulling the transmission crossmember out then you need to force the end of the driver’s side headers over a little bit to the left. I use a big prybar but a big piece of pipe would work for moving the end of the headers out of the way. This is the point that most people have trouble with when trying to get the transmission and their car has headers.

I highly recommended that you remove the front axles if you have to pull the manual transmission on a car with JHM headers to get some more room for reaching the components on top of the transmission.

Also my car has some additional heat shielding over the front oxygen sensor wiring.

Here is what it looks like trying to get to the reverse light switch and the end of the cross rod on my car.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20141125_141537_resized_zps668372bd.jpg

Here is a shot of the stabilizer rod on my car.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20141125_141605_resized_zps55c18be6.jpg

Here is a picture of the solid linkage on my car.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20141125_141519_resized_zpsd3e172ea.jpg

#4

way to go with all the diys jimmy +KARMA youre the man.

#5

I have dropped & installed transmissions more than a dozen times with this jack…that being said it is pretty crappy. Getting the bell housing lined up with this can be a bitch sometimes and watching the trans slide around on it while you’re trying to lower it can make you a bit nervous. Oh, and be careful with those straps. I think I have broken 2 clutch sensors with them at this point.

#6

Good work Jimmy, this will definitely help in the future. +karma

#7

Thank you guys.

BCsniper, yeah most transmission jacks make me nervous. That is a lot of weight above your head and feet usually and most of the time it takes a bunch of rocking the transmission to get it off or on.

#8

Okay so this very long DIY is done except for some minor things. Like having the correct torque specs for the engine speed/rpm sensor and the subframe bolts.

By the way, I had to learn the hard way that there is a 2000 character limit for posts and I almost needed another reserve post because everything barely fit into three posts.

Hope this DIY helps a lot of people because this has been the most involved DIY that I have made so far.

EDIT: I also put the torque specs of the different bolts in two places. The first place is close to the start of the first post so that way people can reference them easily by clicking into this thread and the second place is in the individual steps for the people that work backwards through the steps when reinstalling. I thought that would be very helpful.

#9

Such a beautiful S4 you got to work on ;D

Awesome write up and great work by Jimmy; highly recommended.

FYI:

I’ve put about 3100+ miles on the JHM LWFW/Stage4 Clutch/pp combo. I want to put another 1000 on before I can play around with the launch assist and post a review in my “progress” thread.

Again, big thanks to Jimmy for putting in ALL the work he did for my Avant.

#10

Just got a chance to read through everything. Damn fine job. I made sure to make a note of disconnecting the battery :wink:. I remember when I did my motor mounts I scared the shit out of myself when pulling out the passenger side bracket. As I was wiggling it out it touched something and it created a huge electrical arc that came very close to my hand.

#11

lmao I also forgot to disconnect my battery and I just arced the alternator off a heat shield and scared the living shit out of myself. :stuck_out_tongue:

#12

JimmyBones,
I know it has been a long time since this was posted, but I have not been able to find another S4 B7 Clutch DIY. With a few exceptions, the pictures are not showing up. Do you still have any of these photos, and if so, are you willing to email them to me? Thanks.

PJS

#13

The manual states in several places to apply copper lubricant to the tip of the slave cylinder plunger. I don’t see this noted in any of the DIYs on the interweb. What do people usually do here? Not worry about it and just try to get the darn thing in there with white lithium grease or are people doing this and it’s just hush hush or ?

#14

Team white lithium here. Well that and a large list of swear words.

#15

ElsaWin manual states:
Clean input shaft splines and (in case of used clutch plates) clean hub splines, remove corrosion and apply only a very thin coating of lubricant -G 000 100- on splines. Do not lubricate guide sleeve.

What is it? I put a little clutch grease on the input shaft sleeve per the note in this DIY and put the transmission back on but now I’m wondering if I need to pull it off, clean the guide sleeve, and then reinstall transmission. New fw, clutch, pp, and release bearing were installed.