DIY - Manual Transmission and Clutch/Flywheel - B6/7 S4

DIY/TECH/INFORMATIVE
#1

Why: 1. Clutches and the manual transmission internals wear out.
2. The B6 S4 dual mass flywheels fail and separate which can cause massive damage.
3. Required step for other much bigger repairs and/or some modifications.

Symptoms that your car may need this kind of repairs:

  1. Clutch pedal does not feel smooth all the way through its travel. For instance it gets really hard when you push the pedal to the floor or the clutch pedal does not return properly. It may stick about half way on the way back up.
  2. If it is difficult to get into gears with the engine running and the clutch pedal pushed all the way to the floor.
  3. You are in first gear or reverse gear with the clutch pedal pushed all the way down and when you let off the brake pedal then the car moves in that direction.
  4. If when you mash the gas pedal and the engine rpms go really high but the car doesn’t accelerate accordingly. Usually tested in sixth gear and starting at like 35 mph.
  5. You hear noises when you change gears like grinding or clunks.
  6. If you can’t get into a certain gear at all. Probably second or third gear.
  7. If there is a really bad vibration when the engine running and all your drivetrain mounts are okay.

Symptoms 1-4 are usually caused by a worn out clutch.
Symptoms 5 and 6 are usually caused by worn out manual transmission internals
Symptom 7 is usually caused by a B6 S4 dual mass flywheel separating/failing.

Previous Steps Required:

  1. Battery disconnect - http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=2916.0
  2. Remove the MAF boot and top half of the engine air box - http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=2919.0
  3. Loosen the coolant tank so that it can be moved around for clearance - http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=2921.0
  4. Remove both front oxygen sensors - http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=2970.0
  5. Remove the belly pans - if present - http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=2922.0
  6. Remove axle heat shields, and disconnect front axle inner CV joints from transmission or remove front axles - http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=3016.0

Note #1: If you lower the back of the transmission and tranny crossmember while performing the required previous step #6 then you need to bolt it back into place.

  1. Disconnect both rear oxygen sensor bodies from the exhaust downpipes - http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=2970.0
  2. Remove the exhaust downpipes - http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=2978.0
  3. Remove front sway bar - http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=2976.0

Note #2: Certain steps will overlap from those links a bit but that is okay. Like jacking up the front end of the car or opening the hood for instance.

Note #3: For this repair you really want the front end of the car as high of the ground as you can get it to be able to get the transmission out from under the car.

Note #4: Always have the car supported by jack stands. Ideally there would be a jack stand under each side of the front of the car where the pinch welds are.

Safety Equipment needed:

  1. Safety glasses
  2. Disposable gloves - either Latex or Nitrate
  3. Respirator or dust mask

Note #5: Make sure that if you are replacing the flywheel and clutch with OEM parts that you get all 2007 or newer B7 S4 parts. I say this because the B7 S4 dual mass flywheels are updated from the B6 S4s that tend to separate and fail. Also the B7 S4 pressure plates have more clamping force then the B6 S4 pressure plates. Thus the B6 S4 and B7 S4 clutch components do not mix and match so that is why I say that you need to get all B7 S4 parts. Think of it as an upgrade if you have a B6 S4!

Parts Required:

  1. Manual Transmission
  2. Clutch kit - clutch disc, pressure plate, throw-out bearing, and x6 pressure plate bolts
  3. High temp clutch grease
  4. Flywheel and x8 flywheel bolts
  5. Locktite - Blue or Red
  6. Long zip tie cable tie
  7. Can of brake cleaner
  8. Disposable rags or towels - preferably the blue towels from local auto parts stores
  9. Something to mark bolts with like a sharpie, white-out, etc
  10. Silicone spray
  11. Anti-seize

Parts that break easily or may already be broken during this repair:

  1. Clutch slave cylinder

Recommended upgrade/better parts and other modifications:

JHM parts:

  1. Lightweight flywheel
  2. Clutch kit
    -----2a. Stage 3 or 4 clutch kit - These kits are recommended if you are planning on staying stock or Naturally Aspirated. They use a B7 RS4 pressure plate that has a Self-Adjusting Clutch mechanism that keeps the stock pedal feel.
    -----2b. 1R/3R/5R clutch kit - These kits are recommended if you plan on having more power then being Naturally Aspirated like using Nitrous or being Supercharged. Also these kits use a pressure plate that does not have a Self-Adjusting Clutch mechanism and the pedal feel is a little stiffer but not much. A few people like me would rather not have a SAC system so the 1R is a really good fit for most owners that would consider getting the stage 3 or 4 clutch kits.
  3. Rebuilt transmission
  4. 4:1 center diff modification - for B6 S4s and early B7 S4s (2005.5)
  5. Shifter and linkage upgrades: short throw shifter, solid linkage, solid stabilizer rod bushings, HD linkage cross rod.
  6. Weighted shifter knob

034 Motorsports or Stern parts:

  1. Transmission mount
  2. x2 Engine mounts

Torque Specs:

  1. x3 13 mm engine mount nuts - 23 Nm

  2. x3 8 mm allen bolts to go into the bottom of the transmission from the engine side - 45 Nm

  3. x3 13 mm bolts that hold the transmission mount bracket to the bottom of the transmission - 23 Nm

  4. x2 T45 Torx bolts that hold the heat shield for the center driveshaft to the back of the transmission - 25 Nm

  5. x6 6 mm allen bolts that hold the center driveshaft to the back of the transmission - 55 Nm

  6. x1 10 mm bolt that holds the cross rod to the top of the transmission - 23 Nm

  7. x1 8 mm allen bolt that hold the stabilizer rod to the top of the transmission - 23 Nm

  8. x1 13 mm nut that holds the shift linkage to the selector shaft - 23 Nm and ideally it should be replaced.

  9. x1 6 mm allen or 8 mm triple square bolt that holds the clutch slave cylinder in place - 23 Nm and ideally it should be replaced.

  10. x1 5 mm allen bolt that holds the engine speed/rpm sensor to the front of the transmission bell housing - should be 10 Nm

  11. x7 transmission bell housing bolts and x1 nut for the lower starter/transmission bell housing bolt - 65 Nm

  12. The torqueing process for the pressure plate bolts on reinstall is as follows:
    A. Get all six bolts finger tight and it is strongly recommended to use blue locktite on the threads of these bolts.
    B. Slowly walk all six bolts down in slow 90 degree increments while going in a star pattern.
    C. Finally torque all six bolts to 22 Nm while going in a star pattern.

  13. x8 12 mm triple square flywheel bolts - 60 Nm + 90 degree turn while going in a star pattern, these bolts should be replaced, and it is strongly recommended to use blue locktite on the threads of these bolts.

Tools Required:

  1. Clutch alignment tool
  2. Floor jack
  3. x2 jack stands
  4. Transmission Jack - probably a low lift one like this:

http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_11238.jpg

  1. Spare small piece of wood
  2. Engine support bar

http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_11976.jpg

  1. 3/8" ratchets - it is helpful to have two. A stubby one and a longer/standard length one
  2. 3/8" wobble extensions
  3. 1/2" ratchet
  4. 1/2" extensions
  5. 1/2" breaker bar - preferably at least two feet long
  6. 1/2" to 3/8" step down adaptor socket
  7. 3/8" and 1/2" torque wrenches - click style is easiest but a digital style is great to have.
  8. 3/8" and 1/2 inch impact guns - very handy
  9. 10 mm 3/8" socket
  10. 13 mm 3/8" socket
  11. 16 mm 3/8" socket
  12. 18 mm 3/8" socket
  13. 18 mm 1/2" socket
  14. 5 mm allen 3/8" socket or key
  15. 6 mm allen 3/8" socket
  16. 8 mm allen 3/8" socket and key or stubby 3/8" socket
  17. T45 Torx 3/8" socket
  18. 12 mm triple square socket
  19. 10 mm wrench or shallow 3/8" socket
  20. Small 90 degree pick
  21. Hammer
  22. Long Prybar - 24 inches long
  23. Counterhold for flywheel - Audi/VW special tool number 10-201 - http://vw.snapon.com/SpecialToolsDetail.aspx?itemId=28540006
  24. Cutting tool of some kind - side cuts, knife, etc to cut the zip-tie/cable tie
  25. 8 mm triple square socket - may also be needed if you have a later B7

Steps:

  1. Check that your car has this engine eyelet behind the driver’s side rear portion of the intake manifold.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140902_181806_zpsb3cc850d.jpg

  1. Hook up the engine support bar to that engine eyelet. The triangular shaped feet of the support bar rest on the inside edges of the fenders. Make sure that the feet are as far to the outside as possible and then tighten them to the bar. I just use the straight hook to the engine eyelet and then turn the big wing nut until the engine wants to start being pulled up out of the car. /tight


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140902_182208_zps7a1d307f.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140902_182218_zps3375047f.jpg

  1. Use the floor jack with the piece of wood to support the front of the subframe. I am using a pole jack in this picture because I have a lift but it is same idea.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140902_183845_zpsb67fb61b.jpg

  1. Remove the three 13 mm nuts that hold secure the lower portion of the side engine mounts on. The passenger’s side engine mount has two nuts because there is a little metal bracket that secures some wiring for the starter and alternator in place. The driver’s side engine mount just has the one nut.

The torque spec for these nuts is 23 Nm.

Passenger’s side:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140902_183307_zpsc0331a6d.jpg

Driver’s side:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140902_183316_zps263203ab.jpg

  1. Remove the six 18 mm bolts that hold the front subframe brackets on. There is one bracket on each side. Two of the bolts are on the side of where the sway bar bolts on and the third one is behind where the sway bar bolts on. The bolts are circled in blue in the picture below. The brackets will come off once the three bolts are taken off on each side. Set the brackets and bolts off to the side because they will be going back in shortly.

Can not find torque spec for these bolts but they are torque to yield bolts so they should be replaced every time that they are loosened and then they need to be tightened very tight. Most people including myself do not replace these bolts most of the time and instead just tighten them until my big 1/2" ratchet stops.

http://sandbox.enjoybeing.net/diy/S4/motor-mounts/mount1.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140902_183822_zpsfeab6537.jpg

  1. Slowly lower the floor jack that is supporting the front of the subframe.
  2. There are three 8 mm allen bolts that go from the lower rear portion of the engine oil pan into the lower part of the transmission bell housing that need to be removed. It is a tight fit between the subframe and the bottom of the engine and transmission. So you have to drop the front of the subframe a little bit to get enough room. Most people can not get these bolts out without following the previous steps. I have removed these bolts without doing the previous steps and it is not worth the time and frustration - trust me. Also my car does not have these three bolts any more but that is not recommended.

The torque spec for these bolts is 45 Nm.

In this picture you can see the heads of the bolts from behind the subframe on the transmission side:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140902_183927_zps4bc13e01.jpg

This is not the best set of pictures because I couldn’t get a good flash but here is the heads of those bolts:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140902_183954_zpsf97b13a1.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140902_183945_zps3c4d5717.jpg

  1. You need to bolt the front of the subframe back up so do the reverse of the steps that you just did without putting the three 8 mm allen bolts back in of course.

  2. Use the floor jack with the piece of wood to support the middle of the transmission crossmember. I am using a pole jack in this picture because I have a lift but it is same idea.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_120808_resized_zpsab02a1cb.jpg

  1. Remove the six 18 mm bolts that hold the transmission crossmember to the body. There are three bolts on each side and these bolts are on tight usually.

Can not find torque spec for these bolts but they are torque to yield bolts so they should be replaced every time that they are loosened and then they need to be tightened very tight. Most people including myself do not replace these bolts most of the time and instead just tighten them until my big 1/2" ratchet stops.

Passenger’s side:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_120820_resized_zps365745ea.jpg

Driver’s side:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_120825_resized_zps23cd3f26.jpg

  1. Slowly lower the floor jack and transmission crossmember.
  2. Remove the three 13mm bolts that hold the transmission mount bracket and transmission crossmember to the bottom of the rear of the transmission. Be sure to hold the transmission crossmember while removing the last bolt.

The torque spec for these bolts is 23 Nm.

There are two bolts on the front portion of the bracket:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_121113_resized_zps638000b4.jpg

Then one bolt on the back portion of the bracket:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_121119_resized_zpsc7888ef0.jpg

  1. Move to the back of the transmission. Remove the lower center driveshaft heat shield on the back of the transmission. There are two T45 bolts that hold the cover on and these bolts are very long. Probably need to clean off the heat shield with brake clean.

The torque spec for these bolts is 25 Nm.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_114938_resized_zps8167750b.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_114923_resized_zps5c5dcb1b.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_114929_resized_zpsf79c399f.jpg

  1. Loosen the six 6 mm allen bolts that hold the driveshaft to the back of the transmission. These bolts can be a PITA and it is advised to use an impact gun. Otherwise you may have to use the parking brake to hold the rear wheels in place to stop the driveshaft from spinning. A really big set of channel locks may work too for holding the end of the driveshaft in place. I like to loosen/tighten three bolts at a time.

The torque spec for these bolts is 55 Nm.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_115534_resized_zps7b228895.jpg

  1. Disconnect the driveshaft from the back of the transmission. You have to push the joint back as you pull the end of the driveshaft to the side. The driveshaft may be stuck to the transmission because of corrosion so you can hit the joint on the end with a hammer to dislodge it. Only hit one spot a few times then spin the driveshaft, hit it a few times, then repeat spinning the driveshaft and hitting the joint until it is free. Once the driveshaft is separated from the back of the transmission then I like to use some disposable gloves to cover the ends because the CV joint fluid is some nasty stuff that takes a while to wash off.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_115559_resized_zps57668e82.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_115649_resized_zps1fbb6902.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_115706_resized_zps2cfa0992.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_115742_resized_zps55093653.jpg