DIY - Moving the front end into "Service Position" - B6/7 S4/RS4

DIY/TECH/INFORMATIVE
#1

In Progress. This will be all the information that I put in about Why, tools required, parts/fluids required, etc.

Main information page with why this DIY is needed, some important notes, previous steps required, parts required, and tools required.

Why: These steps are required prior to doing anything other than basic maintenance because there is no room to reach most things otherwise.

Important Notes:

  1. This DIY was done with pictures from four different cars (B6 S4, B7 S4, and two B7 RS4s) so I will try to label the pictures whenever I feel that it is appropriate.
  2. Also this DIY is broken down into three different sections for a reason. For example, certain repairs require just removing the front bumper as other repairs require removing the front bumper and loosening the core support into service position. Few repairs and/or modifications require fully removing the core support but it is important to put this in because of repairs like replacing the AC compressor.

Previous steps required:

  1. If you plan on fully removing the core support then you need to have the AC system refrigerant evacuated with the proper equipment by someone that is qualified/certified to work with automotive AC systems PRIOR TO doing any other steps. The AC refrigerant is harmful to the environment and it can hurt you if you just loosen a line and release it that way.

For example, I purchased an AC machine for this because I finally have been doing enough work to require it. My machine looks like this:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0670_zpsvbtujkrg.jpg

It hooks up to the AC service ports in the below picture.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0669_zpssiknodx9.jpg

  1. Jacking up the front end and supporting the front of the car on jack stands.
  2. Removing the belly pan, if there is one. http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=2922.0
  3. Remove the front headlights - This is B6 specific - http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=2972.0
  4. Drain the coolant. This step is required only if you are going to fully remove the core support. http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=2941.0

Parts Required:

  1. Washer solvent/fluid - This is required anytime that you remove the front bumper because it is very common to leak a bunch all over the place.
  2. Coolant - If drained to fully remove the core support.
  3. Power Steering fluid - If the core support is fully removed.
  4. Engine oil - RS4 specific - If the core support is fully removed.

Tools required:
Will update later

#2

DIY: How to remove the front bumper or front bumper cover. For the B6/7 S4s and RS4s but most other Audis are very similar in concept.

Important Note #1: The grey RS4 that was used for pictures of how to remove the front bumper had a European front bumper so it might be slightly different but it should be very similar to the USA bumper. I personally think that the European bumper looks better but that is just my opinion.

Important Note #2: On the B6 cars I cheat by taking out the headlights so if you have already done so then you can skip to step 5.

Steps Required:

  1. Remove the front wheels to make it easier to get more access to the fender liner screws. The vast majority of the time the front wheel lug bolts are 17mm bolts. Then place the front wheels out of the way somewhere nearby.

Important Note #3: A lot of you have probably already done this before multiple times and know short cuts like turning the front wheels to each lock to get around doing step one. But I wanted to target this DIY to people that have never done this before so I included remove the wheels as step one.

  1. Remove the one plastic pin (RS4s sometimes have multiple plastic pins) on the inside edge of the fender liner and the T25 Torx fender liner screws on the front half of the fender liner on both sides of the car. There are a shit ton of T25 Torx screws and the idea is to get the front half of the fender liners loose enough to move them out of the way.

Important Note #4: On the RS4s, there are three T25 Torx screws around the brake air ducts opening that hold the air ducts to the fender liner. You can leave those three screws in place and just move the half of the fender liner out of the way with the air duct still attached.

B6/7 S4 front left fender liner:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_155406_resized_zpsjcquhlnu.jpg

B7 RS4 front left fender liner: Do you notice the air duct opening that I mentioned before?

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0623_zpsp5ecrp9i.jpg

  1. RS4 specific step - Remove the T20 or T25 Torx bolt that goes up through the bottom of the end of the bumper into the rubber piece at the bottom of the fender liner.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0628_zpswczj365k.jpg

  1. Once the fender liner is free enough to move out of the way then I like to tuck it behind the brake rotor and brake caliper towards the other half of the fender liner that is still attached.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0625_zps5tkdl5pl.jpg

  1. Remove the one or two T25 Torx screws that hold the edge of the front bumper to the supporting braces.

B6/7 S4:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_155246_resized_zps0lsqxpwb.jpg

B7 RS4:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0627_zpszbkwyulo.jpg

  1. Remove the 10 mm nuts that hold the front bumper to the front edge of the fender. There are three nuts on the B6 S4s and two on the B7 S4s/RS4s. I go through the opening where the headlights were to get the three nuts on the B6 S4s. The B7 S4s/RS4s require going through the fender liner opening to remove the two nuts.

B6 S4:
Driver’s side:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_154844_resized_zpseeoilfv1.jpg

Passenger’s side:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_154824_resized_zpsejhslkti.jpg

B7 S4/RS4 Driver’s side. The passenger’s side is very similar so I only took a pic of one side:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0626_zpsrnfjccou.jpg

  1. B7 S4/RS4 specific step - Remove the three T30 Torx screws that hold the top of the front bumper on.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0631_zpswv2413iu.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0632_zpsffekadbk.jpg

  1. B6 S4 specific step - Remove the front fog light grills. There is a flat head screw on the side of the fog light grill that is a half turn screw. Then the fog light grill pops out and you have to angle it to get it out.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_155444_zpsad9advqa.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_155457_zpsudwnnhf6.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_155524_zpshw0ddfjn.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_155518_zpswuszzijt.jpg

  1. B6 S4 specific step - Remove the two 6 mm allen bolts that go up through the opening where the fog light grill was. These bolts feel like they are a mile long but there is a rubber isolator that holds the bolts in so you have to pull them down and out once they start to just spin in place. These two bolts secure the metal crash bar to the low speed impact shocks.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_155647_zpsqncihve2.jpg

  1. Reach down and pop the lower side portion of the front bumper free from the fender on the driver’s side and pull the bumper back enough to expose the wires and hoses. This is scary if you have never done it before but there are plastic tabs that hold the side of the front bumper on.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0633_zpsrf6p4ath.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0634_zpsghv64u8y.jpg

  1. Disconnect the electrical connectors behind the driver’s side of the front bumper. There are two on the S4s and three for the RS4s. Also disconnect the fluid line for the headlight washers. I clamp off the line with locking vice grips and put a hose cap over the end on the S4s. For the RS4s I disconnect the line from the headlight washer pump and put a hose cap over the end. Or of course you could always let all your washer fluid pour out all over the ground if you don’t care but I don’t like to make a bigger mess than needed.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0635_zpsfrnuey24.jpg

B6/7 S4 headlight washer fluid line:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_155939_zpsxxviw8h9.jpg

B7 RS4 headlight washer fluid line/pump:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0636_zpsdb3cxuoh.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0637_zpss8tqfw3x.jpg

  1. Hold the middle of the front bumper on place with your right hand. Then reach down and pop the lower side portion of the front bumper free from the fender on the passenger’s side and pull the bumper back just like in step 10.

  2. Now that the front bumper is free from the car, go ahead and remove it. Set it off to the side. If it is a B6 with a front license plate then I tend to set it facing down on the license plate. With the B7 cars I tend to set the bumper down on the sides facing up.

Reinstall is the reverse of removal but here are some tips.

T1. When you put the front bumper back on be careful to not scratch the paint on the fender by where the studs go through that the 10 mm nuts go on.

T2. When you tighten the two or three 10 mm nuts, push the edge of the front bumper that is under the headlight so that it is lined up with the fender. Otherwise your bumper will be crooked and it will look bad.

T3. The B7s require adjusting of the height of the front bumper to get it flush against the headlights and hood. When you put the front bumper back on make sure that the slots of the bumper line up with the height adjuster notches. The height adjusters are on the crash bar. You can turn them with a long T25 Torx to adjust the height of the bumper. To get to the adjusters you need to go through the two holes that are in front of two of the three places where there are T30 Torx screws on top of the bumper. Once you have adjusted the front bumper it should line up headlights and hood so that there is no gap around the headlights and there is very little gap between the front bumper and the hood.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0991_zpsavv0ssqz.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0985_zpsgvbuykwb.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0986_zpsz2gzok3o.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0972_zpsipacwnes.jpg

#3

DIY: How to loosen the core support into “Service Position.”

Why: This will allow you to move the front end forward about four to six inches. That is enough room to get access to the serpentine belt parts, the front of the intake manifold, and some other things that otherwise are a PITA. In one episode of Top Gear, Jeremy Clarkson said “Audi put the engine in front of the headlights.” That may be an exaggeration but they did try to get it as close as possible. If you haven’t seen the episode where Clarkson drives the B7 RS4 against the mountain climbers then here is a link and it is a great clip. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xKLsBk5CijQ

After you have the front bumper off then the front of the car should look something like this:

B6 S4:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0820_zps5jv523hi.jpg

B7 S4: (I had already taken off the air ducts for the side radiators when I took this picture)

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0139_zpsshbfdfit.jpg

B7 RS4:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0638_zpsnw7jcmre.jpg

Steps:

  1. Remove both air dams for the secondary heat exchangers.

The S4s use two 10 mm bolts on the passenger’s side and two T30 Torx screws that go up through the bottom to hold on the driver’s side. Once the two 10 mm bolts are out then the passenger’s side air dam will fall off. The driver’s side air dam requires some wiggling to remove since there is an alignment pin in the top. You also need to free up the AC line from the bottom of the air dam.

The RS4s use two T30 Torx screws on the bottom of both air dams. Once both T30 Torx screws are out then the air dam pulls down and can be removed.

S4s:
Passenger’s side:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_160339_zps0tqbuckb.jpg

Driver’s side:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_160203_zpsmtbeu81q.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_160157_zpsiyuluf42.jpg

RS4: (I only took a picture of the driver’s side because the two sides are the same)

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0645_zpsmc2khvwn.jpg

  1. RS4 specific step- Disconnect the electrical connectors of the fan control module that is on top of the front crash bar and free up the wiring from the back of the crash bar.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0642_zpsdnf0qrgg.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0643_zpsulmtui6i.jpg

  1. B7 S4/RS4 specific step - Need to remove the front crash bar. Start by disconnect the electrical connectors for the horns that are on both sides of the front crash bar. Then remove the two 10 mm triple square bolts that go up through the bottom of the front crash bar through the low speed impact shocks into the threaded top portion of the front crash bar. After that you can remove the front crash bar. It may be stuck on if it hasn’t come off in a while so a hammer might be helpful to persuade it free.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0639_zpsel940cqe.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0640_zpsahvyafoh.jpg

  1. Remove the six T45 Torx or 13 mm bolts that secure the low speed impact shocks to the frame. The B6 S4s use T45 Torx bolts and the B7 S4s/RS4s use 13 mm bolts. These bolts are usually on very tight so I tend to use a 1/2 inch impact gun to break them free because I am lazy. Leave the 10 mm nuts attached to hold the low speed impact shocks attached to the core support.

B6 S4:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20140903_160524_zpsip1fqxzd.jpg

B7 S4/RS4:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0646_zps68opdft4.jpg

  1. Remove the two T30 Torx screws on the sides of the core support. There is one on each side of the core support.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0647_zpsrhq7tag7.jpg

  1. Remove the four T30 Torx screws that hold the top of the core support to the frame. There are two on each side.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0648_zpscukrbx7v.jpg

  1. Then pull the core support forward. I like to put one of the T30 Torx screws in the side to hold the core support on. Just in case you accidently pull the core support off the snub mount on a S4 or too far forward on a RS4.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0142_zps0rq7nywo.jpg

To tighten everything back up I like to get all the bolts from Steps 4-7 in loosely. Then tighten the top two T45 Torx bolts or 13 mm bolts from Step 4. When you tighten those top two bolts you also need to lift the core support to the correct height of where the bolts are centered up. Otherwise your core support will hang down and the front bumper will likely not line up again. (one more reason why I like to use an impact gun) Once you get all the bolts from Steps 4-7 tight then you can work backwards from Step 3 to Step 1.

#4

In Progress. This will be how to fully remove the core support.

DIY: How to fully remove the core support:

Why: The core support should already be loosened at this point but some repairs and/or modifications require the core support to be fully removed.

Steps:

  1. Put an oil drain under the front left portion of the engine under the power steering lines. Then cut off the factory one time use crimp clamps to hold the rubber power steering lines to the metal power steering cooler lines. I use a long set of side cuts to cut/wiggle them off. Then the rubber lines can be moved off and let them leak into the oil drain. You likely will need screw style clamps to replace the one time use factory crimp clamps.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0677_zpsbr8u0gbi.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0146_zpslafrb6sq.jpg

Important Note #1: Before you proceed the AC refrigerant needs to be evacuated or you will leak it out all over the place and it is harmful to you along with the environment.

  1. Unbolt the two AC lines from the AC condenser. They are in slightly different positions between the B6/7 S4s and then the B7 RS4s but they all are held on with a single T30 Torx bolt each. Remove the T30 Torx bolt and then pull the line off. I like to wrap electrical tape or duck tape around the open end of the AC lines so that way not as much moisture gets into the AC system.

Important Note #2: The B6/7 S4 AC line pictures were taken on my B6 S4 and I don’t have the weirdly shaped air dividers on the sides of the AC condenser. It really doesn’t matter except that the driver’s side AC line has to be wiggled free. It is easy enough to figure out once you get to this point but if anyone wants to post a picture of this then I will gladly add it.

B6/7 S4:
Passenger’s side:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1219_zps5oywebqh.jpg

Driver’s side:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1218_zpsmkz97sc0.jpg

B7 RS4:
Passenger’s side:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0671_zpsxpxia5qk.jpg

Driver’s side:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0676_zps8rdavplp.jpg

  1. Disconnect the electrical connector on the driver’s side front of the core support. I am pointing to it with my other finger in the above picture. It is disconnected in the below picture:


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0145_zpsyt3zaoi7.jpg

  1. Put a coolant drain under the core support where the coolant line goes to the radiator towards the driver’s side of the car. Then disconnect the lower radiator coolant hose towards the driver’s side of the car. The B6/7 S4s use a quick disconnect fitting so you have to pop the small spring clip up then knock the coolant hose off the radiator. Usually they are stuck on so I use a long flat head screwdriver and hammer to tap the line off. Obviously if you are going to use that method then you only hit the end of the quick disconnect fitting and just lightly tap it. Don’t try swinging for a homerun! The RS4s use a spring clamp over a rubber coolant line so just squeeze the ends of the clamp together and put it back. Then push the line off the end of the radiator. Silicone spray helps to move the clamp back along with putting the lines back on later on. Any coolant that is still in the system after you had drained the coolant earlier will come out of that lower hose and the radiator.

B6/7 S4:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0147_zpsshll3iph.jpg

B7 RS4:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0678_zpsw8wb8jsp.jpg

  1. Disconnect the upper radiator coolant hose. This hose is always a quick disconnect fitting so you have to pop the small spring clip up then knock the coolant hose off the radiator. Usually they are stuck on so I use a long flat head screwdriver and hammer to tap the line off. Obviously if you are going to use that method then you only hit the end of the quick disconnect fitting and just lightly tap it. Don’t try swinging for a homerun!


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0681_zpsqqq9e1wb.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0144_zps2imaa6zf.jpg

  1. RS4 specific step - Disconnect the additional coolant line that is connected to the radiator on the front towards the passenger’s side. It has a spring clamp so squeeze the to ends together then move it over. Once the clamp is moved over then you can pull the rubber line off.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0684_zpsiuzobxco.jpg

  1. B7 RS4 specific step - The power steering lines should be done draining by now so move the oil drain under the alternator and the oil cooler lines. Remove the T30 Torx screws that hold the oil cooler lines to the block. Then pop the oil cooler lines out and let them drain. The block will continue to drip for a long time so leave the oil drain in place.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0672_zps80fqwiol.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0675_zpsiktmogit.jpg

  1. B7 S4/RS4 specific step - Disconnect the headlight connectors on both sides. I had already disconnected the connector in the below picture but you get the idea.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0143_zpswygegybh.jpg

  1. Unbolt the airbag crash sensors from the core support. There are two 5 mm allen bolts holding the crash sensors on to the core support. I like to set the airbag crash sensors off to the side so they are out of the way. Don’t drop the crash sensors! It is better to be safe then sorry because nobody wants an airbag to go off in their face. Free up the headlight connector and the airbag crash sensors/wiring from the headlight housings and any other wiring. Usually the B6/7 S4s have the headlight connector wiring ziptied to the fan connector wiring so cut the ziptie. Also for reinstall, there is an arrow on the side of the airbag crash sensors and those arrows need to face forward when the sensors are bolted back on.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0680_zpsygqur22r.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0141_zpsaxixljee.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0140_zpsqjpkg0pe.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0683_zpsbylhnlgt.jpg

  1. Disconnect the two big connectors on the driver’s side behind the headlight or where the headlight was. They are already disconnected in the picture that is two pictures above. They are lined up sideways on the B6/7 S4s and the RS4s have them side by side going lengthwise.

B7 RS4:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0653_zpssbleaiq3.jpg

  1. Disconnect the hood latch cable from the hood latch. It just pops out and there may be some small clips that hold a portion of it to the core support so just pop the clips loose. I like to move the hood latch cable out of the way by the ABS module.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0659_zpsm7mrvvor.jpg

  1. Free up the sides of the core support from the heat exchangers. With the B6/7 S4s I tend to just pop the rubber section free. With the B7 RS4 I remove the 10 mm bolt on the driver’s side under the headlight.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0992_zpshju4fsmw.jpg

  1. Lean up against the middle of the core support with your chest/stomach, unscrew the one T30 Torx bolt that should be holding the core support to the body on each side, grab the low speed impact shocks with both hands, walk backwards which should pull the core support off the car, and set it off to the side somewhere. Then put rags, towels, or something to catch the fluids that leak out while the core support is off.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0142_zps0rq7nywo.jpg

#5

Reserved just in case I need another post.

#6

Very nice Jimmy. In one of your posts can you provide some tips and tricks for getting the bumper cover and headlights properly aligned with the hood and quarter panels?

#7

Thanks, yeah I can do that. That is harder to do on the B7 cars. It is a good thing that you said something about that now because I have a RS4 in for a carbon clean and some other stuff so I can take some additional pictures than what I already had to better explain things.

#8

Okay the front bumper portion is done. I added tips for adjusting the height of the front bumper for the B7 S4s/RS4s.

#9

I really appreciate that, I’ll try once more to get mine lined up with those tips.

#10

Finished up loosening the core support into service position.

#11

Hi Jimmy, Thanks for the write up. Can you post torque specs for the T45 fasteners on the B6 core support? Thanks!

#12

NVM, found the info, it’s 50nm. Sorry to clutter the thread.

#13

Nice DIY. I remember the first time doing this on my S4 it seemed slightly daunting, then after a couple times I had it done in no time and wasn’t a big deal at all. But having a DIY like this to walk new folks through is awesome.