DIY: Upgraded Cross Rod

So, as I pointed out in an earlier thread, the weak point in the stock shifting system (assuming you have a healthy gearbox) is the cross rod. It has a 2-piece plastic cup that holds the ball joint on. That piece is prone to cracking/breaking/separating. So, when that 10-12 year old piece of plastic pops on you, you have 4 options.

First, you could try to save money, and pull an old one off a junk car (but then you have to worry about an aging part again).

Second, you could buy the whole selector rod assembly from the dealership, which costs in the range of $250 and up, even here in Europe.

Third, you can buy the upgraded cross rod from JHM, for $125 (plus a $150 core charge if you need a new one immediately).

Or, and this is my favorite option, you can buy a Heim joint, and modify your original cross rod, to be like JHM’s.

Now, you’re probably like, WTF! This has got to be a PITA! It is slightly, like everything on this car. All told, from getting my car on the lift to pulling it out of the garage, it took me 3 hrs to finish, and I didn’t remove the tranny mounts (I also have 3" DPs). If you can/know somebody who can weld, I’d give this a 7 in difficulty.

I apologize that I didn’t get any pics, as I don’t like to stop once I start, so it’s really hard for me to get in the mindset of taking them. I’ll try to be as detailed as possible, and I’ve modified some pics I took off da interwebs.

The part in question:

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h210/raptor1056/CrossRod.jpg

The transformation:

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h210/raptor1056/JHM_Early_Crossrod_Upgrade_Comparison.jpg

(shamelessly stolen from JHM’s site)

So, here we go!

DISCLAIMER: I am not responsible for any damage you may incur using this DIY. Perform this procedure at your own risk.

Parts Req’d

Heim Joint (I used 5/16" Heim Joint)

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h210/raptor1056/heimjoint.jpg

Cross Rod (found on your transmission, hopefully)

Tools Req’d

Besides the basics for working on this car, you’ll need:

LOOONG extensions

13mm Ratcheting wrench (not req’d, but makes for MUCH shorter work of cross rod bolt)

Tap and Die set, metric, with attachment for ratchet (ours was a Snap-On that used a 3/8" ratchet)

Cutter (handheld, table mounted, whatever, plasma, whatever)

Torch (small butane/propane, or full-sized cutting torch works)

Welding machine (we used a wire-fed MIG)

Bench grinder/files (to smooth welds afterwards)

Steps

  1. Get your car on a lift!

  2. Remove the axle heatshields (should be 3 bolts, top is a B!TCH, so I’ve removed the top bolt. No adverse effects). You can get to them by using a long extension from the wheel well, working your way around the axle and CA’s/hub.

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h210/raptor1056/CrossRodAxleShield.jpg

  1. Remove the cross rod bolt on the right side of transmission, behind the axle. If you look up from in front of the tranny mount, right as the DP start to slope down, you should be able to see it. It’s REALLY tight in there, and a 13mm ratcheting wrench is a HUGE boon. I reached up from behind the tranny mount to guide the wrench, and put the wrench in from ABOVE the tranny, by sliding my arm up in front of the axle. DISCLAIMER: I’ve noticed some people have a 6mm Hex bolt in this spot (I’m guessing that’s on the later style). You can figure out the best way to get that out (I’m guessing a hex key with a wrench on the end for leverage to pop the tq).

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h210/raptor1056/CrossRodBoltRemoval.jpg

  1. On the left side of the tranny, remove the 10mm bolt that holds the ball joint to the selector rod (look straight up in front of the tranny mount), and you’ll probably have to use an 11mm to hold the upper part.

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h210/raptor1056/CrossRodBallJoint.jpg

  1. Snake the rod out however you can.

  2. Measure out the Heim joint, using the stock piece as a guide. I cut the plastic piece off, right at the part where it angles towards the front of the car. I then cut the Heim joint at an angle to match the angle of the stock piece. Once that was done, it was welding time! A couple dabs all around, and file/grind the excess down, and voila! Then, I put the cross rod in a vice, and using a torch to heat it, I bent the joint at the threads that were left, so it was fairly level with how the plastic piece was.

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h210/raptor1056/CrossRodWelded.jpg

  1. Ensure that you’re in a gear (3rd/4th works just fine, as that’s all you’ll have w/out the cross rod).

  2. NOW! The fun part… Enlarging the mounting hole on the selector rod. Another guy here on AZ removed the tranny mount to get the req’d room to drill, but this is unnecessary. Grab that handy-dandy tap&die set. I ran the 7mm tap to begin, then the 8mm, and lastly the 9mm. Our kit had a holder that a 3/8" ratchet fit into. Also, we used an 18" extension (probably overkill, but it worked), and press upwards FIRMLY while turning.

  3. Get that cross rod back up and into position. Get the bolt on the right side of the transmission started, and the ball joint stud into the selector rod before tightening it all down. Once that’s done, tighten it all back down! DON’T put the axle heatshields back on quite yet.

  4. Get into the car, and go through your gears. I had lost reverse, but a quick adjustment, and it’s back (still a little sketchy, but I have it, and will perfect the alignment later). Ensure you have smooth movement through all the gears, and that you have all the gears.

  5. Once that’s complete, get back under the car and put those heatshields back on!

  6. Drive away SMILING! [:D]

I SLAMMED it into gear on a quick pull on my way home. Absolutely no flex or feeling of weakness. I think my shifter setup is finally complete!

I will see about getting under the car maybe this weekend, and getting some pics to update this with.

great post man well done.