Ok, so same code but now it’s saying “gear selector 1 cannot be regulated”.
This time it’s still saying not confirmed, but still no reverse.
OF COURSE… upon finding the distance wan’t correct, i installed all of the new parts.
Ok, so when it goes into limp mode for the transmission, does it take away gears? Since the car wasn’t on jackstands, i drove it around the neighborhood. It’s like it only catchs 2/4/6 gears.
That makes sense as 1/3/5 use a different solenoid. I’ve only gone into full-on limp mode once when I was running a very very beta TCU tune and experimenting. I could not accelerate rapidly at all, the car was a slug, like I was driving through molasses. Pulled over, turned the car off and back on, protection mode went away.
When clearing codes, sometimes you can’t do it globally but have to go into that module and clear it.
I’d try that and then run through the guided functions (adaptation) if it’ll let you.
I’ll try it and see. Perks of where i’m currently at… the 176A is “not confirmed” so it might go away once re-cranking? My mind is allll over the place on this. I’m almost ready to drop it at the dealership, but then i’m also on the fence of shipping it off for rebuild at this place i found in NYC.
There’s also a place in Chicago which rebuilds mechatronics as well. What part of the country are you in?
You could also probably call Sonnax and they may know the most qualified places since they sell many of the replacement parts for the Mech. https://www.sonnax.com
And when you have it sorted and want to look into a transmission cooler, here’s a video I did explaining most of the details.
Ok, attempted to clear the code and adapt since it’s not confirmed. No luck. No luck with driving it, the limp mode makes it undrivable.
I’m drawing a blank. Now that I know i have to have the hooks a set distance, i’m wondering if i have missed something else, or is one of the new parts is actually defective.
If i understand all of this correctly, i’m looking at gear position 1 (the lowest of the solenoid) and i’m not sure what other part.
I opened it back up and the hook was back into where I pulled it out from.
Do you think I should reprogram is as a new mech unit?
Wondering if reprogramming is your answer too…I was reading up on the battery management system and it actually stores up to three battery changes. If it does that for the battery, what does it do for the mechatronic?
My initial reaction was no, shouldn’t have to as the TCU hasn’t been changed but you did change the PCB board. So maybe that’s it along with running guided functions. Since the solenoids are new, their ability to maintain pressure and pressure curve are probably different and maybe (?) the TCU compensates for wear over time? Now it’s so out of whack compared to what the TCU is expecting that it can’t compensate. Just a guess on my end.
Issue Resolved: Fairly certain issue was solenoid N437 for 2nd/R. Pulled mech unit back out of car and realized that the solenoid was around 20mm too far in, compared to where it should have been. Replaced solenoid with one of the original ones, reset distance and double checked the forks were in nuetral.
Test drove without any issues (except residual fluid burning off). Initial thoughts after ~10 miles is it shifts smoother and the once issues have been resolved. Time will tell.
Now we’ll see if the parts hold up!
Thanks AF for all of your assistance, it was greatly appreciated. If you’re ever in Virginia, hit me up and i’ll buy you a beer.
Yes! Great to hear. You did all the heavy lifting, I was just a muse.
So the 2nd/R solenoid…do you think it was the wrong part? Perhaps a change Audi made for certain years?
I know it’s not terribly difficult to replace the parts on the mech short of having to bore out the thermostat housing.
Special equipment is needed for that (still doable at home) as well as pressure testing the valve body which is what worries me a bit along with proper cleaning/flushing.
I do get out to VA every so often, have good friends in Arlington.
I bet you’ll be happy if you do not smell ATF fluid for a long, long time. Glad it’s solved and keep us updated if anything changes.
Once you’re sure it’s fixed and you’re ready, contact me about a transmission cooler.
No, it was identical to all of the other solenoids that connect to the forks, and to be honest i might not have been defective. Could have just been something not 100% aligned upon previous installations. Although, i find that hard to believe.
hahaha, i have a few more days of smelling it. I need to thoroughly clean my under carriage and clean the garage.
Can you send me a link to the transmission cooler? I’m really interested in it, but i need to make sure a couple other things are squared away before committing. I’m also at 147k miles now, so i’m trying to determine if upgrades are worthwhile… or just save money for the next one.
http://www.redmistracing.com but I posted a video earlier in the thread too. There’s a thread in this section on it as well which has more info. I’m still working on the web site and deciding who I want to go with so it’s a temporary basic website with a points of contact.
Totally makes sense to evaluate given the mileage. If you go for a newer B8.5 with less miles, it’d transfer over obviously. But given the cost of the cooler kit and the miles on the car, I’d probably skip it unless you plan on keeping the car for another few years. But interesting your mech made it that far before having a failure.
A few pics from my last gearbox rebuild. Thought this thread might find them useful. I’ve been advised the grey and blue cables on the mechatronics cable harness are Gen1 and the multi colour harness is a Gen 3. The kit in the plastic container is a mechatronics rebuild kit complete with clutch solenoids and cabling harness.
More porn pics… love it !!!
Where did you source the full rebuild kit from?
I’m pretty sure this is the kit;
I’d be nervous buy a Mechatronic kit from anywhere but Audi as I see there are Chinese sellers on Ebay and Alliexpress selling repair kits that you know have to be junk. Do you know who makes the parts for Alltranz?
It’s sold as a factory original repair kit - whatever that means. I had blind faith in my mechanic to get the right kit and I’m very pleased with the result. I think my clutch solenoids were suffering intermittent contacting with the harness which cause clutch pressures to drop under heavy load.
Pretty impressive that you can do the job yourself. I would just ship it off to a specialist or ask audi if they will fix it as there are too many of those flawed.
Hi Ape_Factory. and All here. I own a garage and work as an auto technician but dont have much experice in DSG transmissions. Have a 2013 Audi Q5 2.0 Diesel with DL501 transmission. Giving me DTC P17E100 (Gear Actuator 2 Mechanical Failure. And when I drove it, it doesn’t change 3rd or 4th gear. Removed Mechatronic unit. No debris no metal particles found. Given the data here, checked the resistance of all solenoids. Two Solenoids N435 and N439 have resistance 13.8 while your data shared here say 15. Apart from this, everything else look fine. Please advice. Will be much appreciated. Thanks
Could be a combination of electrical and the actual solenoids. There is a repair kit sold by Audi which replaces the PCB board and two solenoids. I can’t remember which two off the top of my head.
There’s also this TSB which pertains to the S4/S5 so may not be applicable. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2013/SB-10051783-6671.pdf
My money would be on the PCB/Solenoid being bad. It’s a common error.
Here’s a really quick read that’ll get you somewhat up to speed: https://andybucks5.blogspot.com/2018/08/audi-s-tronic-gearbox-reliability-faults-tuning-repair.html
Even Amazon has the repair kit believe it or not!
https://amzn.to/2OrtEkU
The part number is 0B5398048C but double check that’s the right one for the Q5 2.0TDi.
-Michel
Hi Michel. Thanks. Since this is not the right one for my Q5.
Let me search the right one for Q5 either on ebay or Amazon . I will get back here once the fault been rectified.
