I’d be nervous buy a Mechatronic kit from anywhere but Audi as I see there are Chinese sellers on Ebay and Alliexpress selling repair kits that you know have to be junk. Do you know who makes the parts for Alltranz?
It’s sold as a factory original repair kit - whatever that means. I had blind faith in my mechanic to get the right kit and I’m very pleased with the result. I think my clutch solenoids were suffering intermittent contacting with the harness which cause clutch pressures to drop under heavy load.
Pretty impressive that you can do the job yourself. I would just ship it off to a specialist or ask audi if they will fix it as there are too many of those flawed.
Hi Ape_Factory. and All here. I own a garage and work as an auto technician but dont have much experice in DSG transmissions. Have a 2013 Audi Q5 2.0 Diesel with DL501 transmission. Giving me DTC P17E100 (Gear Actuator 2 Mechanical Failure. And when I drove it, it doesn’t change 3rd or 4th gear. Removed Mechatronic unit. No debris no metal particles found. Given the data here, checked the resistance of all solenoids. Two Solenoids N435 and N439 have resistance 13.8 while your data shared here say 15. Apart from this, everything else look fine. Please advice. Will be much appreciated. Thanks
Could be a combination of electrical and the actual solenoids. There is a repair kit sold by Audi which replaces the PCB board and two solenoids. I can’t remember which two off the top of my head.
There’s also this TSB which pertains to the S4/S5 so may not be applicable. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2013/SB-10051783-6671.pdf
My money would be on the PCB/Solenoid being bad. It’s a common error.
Here’s a really quick read that’ll get you somewhat up to speed: https://andybucks5.blogspot.com/2018/08/audi-s-tronic-gearbox-reliability-faults-tuning-repair.html
Even Amazon has the repair kit believe it or not!
https://amzn.to/2OrtEkU
The part number is 0B5398048C but double check that’s the right one for the Q5 2.0TDi.
-Michel
Hi Michel. Thanks. Since this is not the right one for my Q5.
Let me search the right one for Q5 either on ebay or Amazon . I will get back here once the fault been rectified.
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Hi Michel
Thanks a lot for your help and advice. I replaced the repair kit and car is like new now. No DTC no Dash Lights.
Thanks again for your help and support.
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Congratulations. I have a new repair kit sitting in my cabinet, ready to go in my S5 or RS5 as needed. RS5 has a newer low mile 2015 transmission so I assume the S5 will need it first but we’ll see.
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Oh great! Good news and glad I could help although you did all the heavy lifting!
-m
Hi all - new to this forum. AF - your posts are incredibly helpful. Have a stock B8 2011 S4 that I have babied - all maintenance and very low miles - 48k. Was driving from Houston to Dallas and felt a little frisky - was going ~100mph over a fairly long stretch, and suddenly got full limp mode and no odd gears. Towed to dealer, code was clutch 1 temp too hot, reduced torque. Dealer didn’t want to touch, saying need new tranny. Had a reputable local garage drop the pan - no shavings or burned smell - has me thinking it’s likely mech unit.
Had the garage perform the mech repair per the TSB - still no luck, cleared codes and the temp code came back, even at a cold start. Could it be a bad temp sensor or perhaps the cooling valves? For now, I asked the garage to drop the mech unit again and I’ll test the resistance on the solenoids - any other suggestions? Much appreciated!
Yes, with the mech dropped, have them take a look at the clutch cooling valve. It may have gone AWOL.
Replacement part can be found here: https://www.sonnax.com/parts/4279-oversized-clutch-cooling-control-valve-kit
I’d also have them look at the clutch discs and see if they’re worn on the odd gears or see if you’ve burned the faces from overheating.
I’ve just replaced mine with this very kit and all is good now 
Some disappointing news to share - after cracking open the internal filter, we found some debris in the cartridge. Guess I’m now looking at a clutch pack rebuild.
Strange that the clutch went with such low miles. I know an RS5 owner that’s having a similar problem, same code along with the clutch slippage code. No really sure which is the cause of which. Is it a bad clutch cooling circuit causing the clutches to overheat or is it the clutches slipping and super heating the fluid? Chicken or the egg syndrome.
Agree AF - it’s a catch22. Also, I’m surprised by the complete lack of technical knowledge about these transmissions across garages and even Audi. Suppose on purpose to replace vs repair.
Anyway, I abandoned the project and sold the car. Considered going electric, but rejected that thought and got myself a new 6spd M4. Loving the manual trans, kids in the back seat and all 
Hello, i am new here. I am mechanic in my country and a few days i am struggling with dis dl501 transmission on Audi A7 3.0TDI. The car doesnt move at all, evrything was startet with water intrusion throth coolant valve.
This is the codes that i read with vcds:
First what i was thinking that i was made the mistake about neutral position with fork 1 and 2, and I was checked it and everything was ok.
Does anyone had this errors? I am thinking maybe my TCU is damaged. Valves and boards i was changed before.
Sorry on my english.
Are you saying the Mechatronic Electronic circuit board was changed already? Did you do it and is that why you were checking the Neutral position with Fork 1 and 2? Was the car flood damaged?
No it was not flood damaged. Only replaced main TCM connector and coolant valve because water intrusion. I was check neutral position because i only have this 2 faults. Car doesnt move at all.
I also try basic setings via odis but i am geting error: wheicle speed to high!
Yes, electronic circuit board was changed already…
Only in what i suspect here is damaged TCM.And i forgot to tell via odis i can only calibrate position sensor g676
The Gear actuator sensor 1 & 2 along with the Shift Fork position sensor 1 & 2 doesn’t sound good. You may already know this but on the Mechatronic the bottommost Fork is for Gear 2 & R, the next one higher is for 1 & 3. I think you said you checked these but if not can you visually check these or with an inspection camera? The distance sensors are on the Plastic stepped assembly next to where the Shift forks hook onto the Mechatronic control valves. My guess if these are installed and hooked correctly is it is something with the Mechatronic Valve, especially if you say the electronics boards and vavles (Solenoids?) were replaced.
Yes i checked with camera, every hook is attached for fork, and also in correct neutral position.
I checked the valves, they have correct continuity( resistance). Also checked that they are working electronically. But maybe they are not working mechanically. That is may next step to checked