Congratulations. I have a new repair kit sitting in my cabinet, ready to go in my S5 or RS5 as needed. RS5 has a newer low mile 2015 transmission so I assume the S5 will need it first but we’ll see.
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Oh great! Good news and glad I could help although you did all the heavy lifting!
-m
Hi all - new to this forum. AF - your posts are incredibly helpful. Have a stock B8 2011 S4 that I have babied - all maintenance and very low miles - 48k. Was driving from Houston to Dallas and felt a little frisky - was going ~100mph over a fairly long stretch, and suddenly got full limp mode and no odd gears. Towed to dealer, code was clutch 1 temp too hot, reduced torque. Dealer didn’t want to touch, saying need new tranny. Had a reputable local garage drop the pan - no shavings or burned smell - has me thinking it’s likely mech unit.
Had the garage perform the mech repair per the TSB - still no luck, cleared codes and the temp code came back, even at a cold start. Could it be a bad temp sensor or perhaps the cooling valves? For now, I asked the garage to drop the mech unit again and I’ll test the resistance on the solenoids - any other suggestions? Much appreciated!
Yes, with the mech dropped, have them take a look at the clutch cooling valve. It may have gone AWOL.
Replacement part can be found here: https://www.sonnax.com/parts/4279-oversized-clutch-cooling-control-valve-kit
I’d also have them look at the clutch discs and see if they’re worn on the odd gears or see if you’ve burned the faces from overheating.
I’ve just replaced mine with this very kit and all is good now 
Some disappointing news to share - after cracking open the internal filter, we found some debris in the cartridge. Guess I’m now looking at a clutch pack rebuild.
Strange that the clutch went with such low miles. I know an RS5 owner that’s having a similar problem, same code along with the clutch slippage code. No really sure which is the cause of which. Is it a bad clutch cooling circuit causing the clutches to overheat or is it the clutches slipping and super heating the fluid? Chicken or the egg syndrome.
Agree AF - it’s a catch22. Also, I’m surprised by the complete lack of technical knowledge about these transmissions across garages and even Audi. Suppose on purpose to replace vs repair.
Anyway, I abandoned the project and sold the car. Considered going electric, but rejected that thought and got myself a new 6spd M4. Loving the manual trans, kids in the back seat and all 
Hello, i am new here. I am mechanic in my country and a few days i am struggling with dis dl501 transmission on Audi A7 3.0TDI. The car doesnt move at all, evrything was startet with water intrusion throth coolant valve.
This is the codes that i read with vcds:
First what i was thinking that i was made the mistake about neutral position with fork 1 and 2, and I was checked it and everything was ok.
Does anyone had this errors? I am thinking maybe my TCU is damaged. Valves and boards i was changed before.
Sorry on my english.
Are you saying the Mechatronic Electronic circuit board was changed already? Did you do it and is that why you were checking the Neutral position with Fork 1 and 2? Was the car flood damaged?
No it was not flood damaged. Only replaced main TCM connector and coolant valve because water intrusion. I was check neutral position because i only have this 2 faults. Car doesnt move at all.
I also try basic setings via odis but i am geting error: wheicle speed to high!
Yes, electronic circuit board was changed already…
Only in what i suspect here is damaged TCM.And i forgot to tell via odis i can only calibrate position sensor g676
The Gear actuator sensor 1 & 2 along with the Shift Fork position sensor 1 & 2 doesn’t sound good. You may already know this but on the Mechatronic the bottommost Fork is for Gear 2 & R, the next one higher is for 1 & 3. I think you said you checked these but if not can you visually check these or with an inspection camera? The distance sensors are on the Plastic stepped assembly next to where the Shift forks hook onto the Mechatronic control valves. My guess if these are installed and hooked correctly is it is something with the Mechatronic Valve, especially if you say the electronics boards and vavles (Solenoids?) were replaced.
Yes i checked with camera, every hook is attached for fork, and also in correct neutral position.
I checked the valves, they have correct continuity( resistance). Also checked that they are working electronically. But maybe they are not working mechanically. That is may next step to checked
Did anyone notice the empty solenoid slot??
I wonder what it is designex for…
I am an Audi A4 Allroad (B8.5) owner who has concerns about the reliability of the DL501. My car drives mostly in city traffic, creeping a lot (I am living in a crowded city - Shanghai). I plugged an OBDELEVEN on my car and I noticed that putting A/C on will help a lot for the DL501 to keep the ATF temperature around 80C-90C, even if the traffic condition is bumper to bumper.
I very much agree that the cooling mechanism of DL501 is a big flaw, heavy traffic or spirited driving are not considered. But the A/C will force the cooling fan work harder hence to reduce the risk of ATF overheating to certain extent.
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I’ve seen close to 120C in traffic here in Texas during the summer months. This is with the a/c running in stop and go city driving.
My cooler not only lowers overall operating temperatures under all driving conditions, it also provides a larger pool of fluid and reduces the time it takes for the system to cool down to normal operating temperatures. Typical temperatures with the RMR trans cooler are between 64 and 72C in the same driving conditions and are far, far cooler in spirited driving situations.
There’s also the heat soak/diminished performance issue which my system helps solve, along with JHM’s stage 2 tune.
And welcome to the forum! Always good to have people in other parts of the planet.
Hi everyone,
Need a help of solving my problem with a 7 speed S-Tronic Gearbox. My car is 2014 A6 C7 3.0TDi 245bhp CDUD, transmission code PXD. Car has 158k miles on the clock.
Grinding noise when gear changes from 2nd to 1st gear before a complete stop.
Have been changing gearbox oil and filters every 15k miles, recently (2k miles ago) have changed Flywheel, Complete Clutch Unit (all brand new). After changing flywheel & clutch the noise did not disappeared (maybe it got somewhat quieter) still have grinding noise when it shifts from 2nd to 1st gear. Bought a mechatronic repair kit 0B5398048D and replaced old parts with new ones. Unfortunately nothing changed same grinding noise.
P.S All other gears are shifting perfectly hardly noticeable when it change gears up or down with no jerking when shifting from P to D or Revers gear.
P.S.S Other day was sitting in the car scanning for a fault codes (non found) engine was running when I did a scan and when I pressed brake pedal got the grinding noise similar to the one mentioned above. Car was in park with a running engine this never happen before.
Maybe someone had same issue and knows what is the problem and knows how to fix it?
Appreciate your help
Haven’t heard of it but yours is getting up there in mileage. Although Kudo’s for doing an excellent job and changing the fluid more often, most don’t and there’s seem to fail or have issues early. A '14 should be a Gen2 transmission. Do you see any metallic particles in the oil when you drain the fluid? Are you doing the MFT along with the ATF fluid?
Hi everybody.
Found this thread useful for me.
I’ve bought A6 3.0 tdi 2012 with defective gearbox (without any history), it has just odd gears. Vcds shows 2 actual unclearable DTC’s after test drive, and these DTC’s show in a second after I clear them on started engine on P.
- 17573 - Shift Fork 1 Position Circuit
P2832 00 [175] - Implausible signal
2)18779 Function Restricted due to Excessive Voltage
U1401 00 [038]
Intermittent - Not Confirmed
Tested since Memory Clear …
Will the replacement of mechatronic help to solve rhe problem, or should I try with smaller steps or changing/repairing makes no sense with this adaptation points for Clutch 1: 2.830 bar; 8.297 bar, Clutch 2: 2.258 bar; 7.407 bar.
Fault 2 concerns me. If you have a VCDS, it’ll give you a time stamp for the various errors. Which occurred first?