No it was not flood damaged. Only replaced main TCM connector and coolant valve because water intrusion. I was check neutral position because i only have this 2 faults. Car doesnt move at all.
I also try basic setings via odis but i am geting error: wheicle speed to high!
Yes, electronic circuit board was changed already…
Only in what i suspect here is damaged TCM.And i forgot to tell via odis i can only calibrate position sensor g676
The Gear actuator sensor 1 & 2 along with the Shift Fork position sensor 1 & 2 doesn’t sound good. You may already know this but on the Mechatronic the bottommost Fork is for Gear 2 & R, the next one higher is for 1 & 3. I think you said you checked these but if not can you visually check these or with an inspection camera? The distance sensors are on the Plastic stepped assembly next to where the Shift forks hook onto the Mechatronic control valves. My guess if these are installed and hooked correctly is it is something with the Mechatronic Valve, especially if you say the electronics boards and vavles (Solenoids?) were replaced.
Yes i checked with camera, every hook is attached for fork, and also in correct neutral position.
I checked the valves, they have correct continuity( resistance). Also checked that they are working electronically. But maybe they are not working mechanically. That is may next step to checked
Did anyone notice the empty solenoid slot??
I wonder what it is designex for…
I am an Audi A4 Allroad (B8.5) owner who has concerns about the reliability of the DL501. My car drives mostly in city traffic, creeping a lot (I am living in a crowded city - Shanghai). I plugged an OBDELEVEN on my car and I noticed that putting A/C on will help a lot for the DL501 to keep the ATF temperature around 80C-90C, even if the traffic condition is bumper to bumper.
I very much agree that the cooling mechanism of DL501 is a big flaw, heavy traffic or spirited driving are not considered. But the A/C will force the cooling fan work harder hence to reduce the risk of ATF overheating to certain extent.
I’ve seen close to 120C in traffic here in Texas during the summer months. This is with the a/c running in stop and go city driving.
My cooler not only lowers overall operating temperatures under all driving conditions, it also provides a larger pool of fluid and reduces the time it takes for the system to cool down to normal operating temperatures. Typical temperatures with the RMR trans cooler are between 64 and 72C in the same driving conditions and are far, far cooler in spirited driving situations.
There’s also the heat soak/diminished performance issue which my system helps solve, along with JHM’s stage 2 tune.
And welcome to the forum! Always good to have people in other parts of the planet.
Hi everyone,
Need a help of solving my problem with a 7 speed S-Tronic Gearbox. My car is 2014 A6 C7 3.0TDi 245bhp CDUD, transmission code PXD. Car has 158k miles on the clock.
Grinding noise when gear changes from 2nd to 1st gear before a complete stop.
Have been changing gearbox oil and filters every 15k miles, recently (2k miles ago) have changed Flywheel, Complete Clutch Unit (all brand new). After changing flywheel & clutch the noise did not disappeared (maybe it got somewhat quieter) still have grinding noise when it shifts from 2nd to 1st gear. Bought a mechatronic repair kit 0B5398048D and replaced old parts with new ones. Unfortunately nothing changed same grinding noise.
P.S All other gears are shifting perfectly hardly noticeable when it change gears up or down with no jerking when shifting from P to D or Revers gear.
P.S.S Other day was sitting in the car scanning for a fault codes (non found) engine was running when I did a scan and when I pressed brake pedal got the grinding noise similar to the one mentioned above. Car was in park with a running engine this never happen before.
Maybe someone had same issue and knows what is the problem and knows how to fix it?
Appreciate your help
Haven’t heard of it but yours is getting up there in mileage. Although Kudo’s for doing an excellent job and changing the fluid more often, most don’t and there’s seem to fail or have issues early. A '14 should be a Gen2 transmission. Do you see any metallic particles in the oil when you drain the fluid? Are you doing the MFT along with the ATF fluid?
Hi everybody.
Found this thread useful for me.
I’ve bought A6 3.0 tdi 2012 with defective gearbox (without any history), it has just odd gears. Vcds shows 2 actual unclearable DTC’s after test drive, and these DTC’s show in a second after I clear them on started engine on P.
Will the replacement of mechatronic help to solve rhe problem, or should I try with smaller steps or changing/repairing makes no sense with this adaptation points for Clutch 1: 2.830 bar; 8.297 bar, Clutch 2: 2.258 bar; 7.407 bar.
Fault 2 concerns me. If you have a VCDS, it’ll give you a time stamp for the various errors. Which occurred first?
The Shiftfork 1 is controlled by the N433 & N437 Solenoids. So it could be the Solenoids, Electric or Mechanical portion of the Mechatronic. As Ape said the Excessive Voltage should be a concern. Are you using an OEM battery or aftermarket? As some of us found an aftermarket battery of an output too low in amperage can cause the Charging system to overvoltage, but then again so can a bad voltage regulator. Are you using Vagcom to pull these codes? Did the overvoltage cause the issue?? You may be able to just do a complete transmission adaption procedure and solve the transmission issue. But the Overvoltage issue needs to be fixed, it does say intermittent.
To be honest car’s battery completely dead and this faults I get on “alternator” voltage. The first fault is about excessive voltage, I think 2 minutes after I jumpstarted car (timestamp 00:02:30) second - 00:30:00.
First step - buy new battery…
Second - try to clear faults and try to do adaptations?
Definitely, new battery, clear all faults, then start the car and try to drive it and see what if any faults return after a short drive around the block.
So, results with new battery.
There is same TCM fault that comes just after I clear it.
Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 0B5-927-156.CLB
Control Module Part Number: 4G1 927 156 B HW: 0B5 927 156 F
Component and/or Version: 0B5 30 TDIRdW H10 0003
Software Coding: 000001
Work Shop Code: WSC 02391 785 00200
ASAM Dataset: EV_TCMDL501 A02196 (AU57)
ROD: EV_TCMDL501.rod
VCID: 2C57B1B7470B3EEB4F-8078
1 Fault Found:
17573 - Shift Fork 1 Position Circuit
P2832 00 [167] - Implausible Signal
MIL ON - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 40
Mileage: 189208 km
Date: 2022.04.21
Time: 00:25:50
Engine RPM: 0 /min
Transmission input speed: 0 /min
Transmission output speed: 0 /min
Engine torque: -44 Nm
ATF temperature: 52 °C
Accelerator pedal position: 0.0 %
Clutch status: Beide Kupplungen offen
Unlearning counter according OBD: 40
Voltage terminal 30: 12.000 V
Supply voltage of sensors for partial transmission 2-Param to DOP: 4.966 V
S005_Siw_Adc_Gs_Sensor[G2R_1]-Data: 2837
S006_Siw_Adc_Gs_Sensor[G2R_2]-Data: 2306
Also I’ve checked actual values of sensors on engine idle running while shifting gears (PRND) and holding on each gear for 5-7 seconds until I feel light push of engaging gear(?). This push was even on Reverse but on R and D it is delayed in 2-3 seconds.
ATF Temperature
Clutch 1 lower adaptation point-Data
Clutch 1 upper adaptation point-Data
Clutch 2 lower adaptation point-Data
Clutch 2 upper adaptation point-Data
Clutch pressure: clutch 1-Data
Clutch pressure: clutch 2-Data
Normal_pressure_clutch_1-Data
Normal_pressure_clutch_2-Data
Normal_pressure_shaft_1-Data
Normal_pressure_shaft_2-Data
Temp Clutch
Videos attaching.
Looks like from the fault that it is showing/faulting before you even run the car, just with the power on, it shows transmision input/output speed of zero with engine rpm of zero. Sounds like an electrical fault and not mechanical. Nominal pressure on shaft 1 mostly stays at 3.0 Bar and occasionally jumps to 15~16. Hopefully somebody with more DSG knowledge will pipe in. I can log mine when I get home with the same groups you have but I won’t be home until next Tuesday.
Hi all, looking to draw on your collective wisdom as I have an unusual fault with the 0B5 in my 2014 A4 and can’t find anything like it online.
The car drives perfectly between gears 1-5, but shifting between 5 6 and 7 causes a scraping / grinding sound, audible inside and out the window, and most noticable on the downshift from 6 to 5, sounds a bit like guard rub on a lowered car. after a while it throws the transmission fault on the dash with codes P285000 & P187F00.
I have changed the DSG fluid and filters and dropped the mech and inspected all gear selector solenoids at the same time (It all looked to be in excellent condition, although the seal on the top solenoid filter looked slightly perished, about 1mm in one corner), I then did an adaptation but still get the same issue.
I think next steps will be to try replacing the printed circuit boards and the solenoid/filters, would just like to rule out the possibility of a fault with the actual shift fork or gearbox mechanics if at all possible.
Any help appreciated!
Can’t really tell if the solenoid is good by looking at it. But…there are two solenoids involved with 5, 6 and 7 so I’d look at the alignment of the actuators as well as make sure everything is clean and free of metal debris.
When servicing the gearbox, it’s imperative to drop the pan and clean the magnets which it sounds like you’ve done already. Doubt it’s the PCB as that would produce different error codes. But the actuator arm position is supposed to be at a very precise distance.
The gear position sensor in the MTF side of the gearbox also throws different codes from what you’re seeing.
Hi Ape_Factory thanks for the quick and helpful reply.
Yes regrettably forgot to test each solenoid with a multimeter but did clean the magnets on the pan as well as the forks - there was only a minor amount of sludge. I set all actuators to 32mm (later version mech) but did notice they weren’t all sitting vertical so tried to reset them - is there a certain pitch they should each sit at?
A guy on Rosstech had these codes and changed PCBs and solenoids with no luck, suggesting maybe it is mechanical, or maybe TCM.
Cheers
New to the forum!
I spent all morning reading every comment above. Some really helpful information and honestly the best information I’ve come across in a few weeks of searching for some detailed information to the issue I am having. So thanks for that and hopefully someone will have some knowledge on my specific case.
When pulling away from stationary in either 1st gear or reverse, the car revs will dip to 800rpm, before bouncing back up to normal and then I can drive away.
When the car is under load (e.g. during a hill start) this is a bit more aggressive, with the car juddering forward a bit and in some cases the engine stalls.
Now I am aware of this, I can compensate for the dip in revs by getting onto the throttle right away, after I release the break pedal.
All other gear changes are smooth, with no juddering, but the engine will rev higher than normal when changing gears. This higher rev before gears changing is intermittent, as is the dip in revs, dropping to 800rpm and then back to normal when pulling away from stationary.
I wasn’t sure what parts I need, but having read the comments above, I’m leaning towards solenoids N471/N472. Or I had initially thought the clutch plates might be wore and need replaced. Or potentially a flywheel, but there is no smells so I’m sort of ruling the flywheel out.
No fault codes have come up on the dash and this has been going on for a few weeks now. I had the car scanned to see if my scanner just wasn’t picking anything up and the Audi dealership couldn’t find any faults either.
Im dealing with a 2014 A6 2.0. There is 127k on the clock with full service history, including dynamic flushes of the gearbox oil, every 30-40k miles.
Let me know if any of you have experienced similar, before I just go ahead and buy all the parts and start a process of elimination! Thanks
Do you have a Ross-Tech VCDS? You may try using one to pull any codes (not all of them light up the dash as they might be unconfirmed) and running friction point adaptation to see if that helps.
I’d also make sure they’re changing the fluid on both sides of the transmission (ATF and MTF) and that the internal filter was changed and the magnets cleaned.
It could also be engine sensor-related and not necessarily the transmission. Another reason to pull codes and see what might be there.