DL501 OB5 Mechatronic discussion

A5/S5/RS5
#61

Can’t really tell if the solenoid is good by looking at it. But…there are two solenoids involved with 5, 6 and 7 so I’d look at the alignment of the actuators as well as make sure everything is clean and free of metal debris.

When servicing the gearbox, it’s imperative to drop the pan and clean the magnets which it sounds like you’ve done already. Doubt it’s the PCB as that would produce different error codes. But the actuator arm position is supposed to be at a very precise distance.

The gear position sensor in the MTF side of the gearbox also throws different codes from what you’re seeing.

#62

Hi Ape_Factory thanks for the quick and helpful reply.

Yes regrettably forgot to test each solenoid with a multimeter but did clean the magnets on the pan as well as the forks - there was only a minor amount of sludge. I set all actuators to 32mm (later version mech) but did notice they weren’t all sitting vertical so tried to reset them - is there a certain pitch they should each sit at?

A guy on Rosstech had these codes and changed PCBs and solenoids with no luck, suggesting maybe it is mechanical, or maybe TCM.

Cheers

#63

New to the forum!
I spent all morning reading every comment above. Some really helpful information and honestly the best information I’ve come across in a few weeks of searching for some detailed information to the issue I am having. So thanks for that and hopefully someone will have some knowledge on my specific case.

When pulling away from stationary in either 1st gear or reverse, the car revs will dip to 800rpm, before bouncing back up to normal and then I can drive away.
When the car is under load (e.g. during a hill start) this is a bit more aggressive, with the car juddering forward a bit and in some cases the engine stalls.
Now I am aware of this, I can compensate for the dip in revs by getting onto the throttle right away, after I release the break pedal.

All other gear changes are smooth, with no juddering, but the engine will rev higher than normal when changing gears. This higher rev before gears changing is intermittent, as is the dip in revs, dropping to 800rpm and then back to normal when pulling away from stationary.

I wasn’t sure what parts I need, but having read the comments above, I’m leaning towards solenoids N471/N472. Or I had initially thought the clutch plates might be wore and need replaced. Or potentially a flywheel, but there is no smells so I’m sort of ruling the flywheel out.
No fault codes have come up on the dash and this has been going on for a few weeks now. I had the car scanned to see if my scanner just wasn’t picking anything up and the Audi dealership couldn’t find any faults either.

Im dealing with a 2014 A6 2.0. There is 127k on the clock with full service history, including dynamic flushes of the gearbox oil, every 30-40k miles.

Let me know if any of you have experienced similar, before I just go ahead and buy all the parts and start a process of elimination! Thanks

#64

Do you have a Ross-Tech VCDS? You may try using one to pull any codes (not all of them light up the dash as they might be unconfirmed) and running friction point adaptation to see if that helps.

I’d also make sure they’re changing the fluid on both sides of the transmission (ATF and MTF) and that the internal filter was changed and the magnets cleaned.

It could also be engine sensor-related and not necessarily the transmission. Another reason to pull codes and see what might be there.

#65

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Thanks everyone for posting such useful instructions. With the help of this post, I just pulled out my mechatronic the other week (’13 RS5, no reverse gear). The only issue so far was the top electrical connector. That unscrewed rather easily, but the plastic piece between it and the internal, male connector seemed to be stuck.

For anyone that hasn’t done it yet, to remove that middle, plastic part, take off the one bolt, then twist it counterclockwise 90 degrees, and pull it straight out. There’s not a lot of space up there, and 2 ribbed, rubber gaskets hold it in place. I did a bit of shaking and twisting until it got loose, then it finally broke free.