Driveline question

I have a manual, with 90k. Over the past year and a half I have upgraded in this order, spulen rear diff mount, 034 snub mount (had shave to keep it from touching cage), 034 rubber motor and trans mounts. With each change it felt better for about a week or two and then it went back to the feel that I started with. Clunky, harsh and non smooth feeling. From everything I have read over the years, changing these things should make the shifts feel better not unchanged. Idk if I did something wrong with the installs or, if I still have a weak link somewhere.

034 rear diff carrier inserts, subframe bushings, and the driveshaft center support would be things to take a look at.

Thanks. I will look into diff carrier inserts first since thats the easiest thing to do. I am also leaning towards getting a new snub mount as well. Replacing the motor mounts might have fix the snub mount not fitting right the first time. Any idea what would cause having to shave the snub mount to stop it from touching the stock cage?

Snub
motor
trans
rear diff

Usually cover most of the drive line issues. Crontrol arms sway bar shocks also account for a good amount of over all body slop.

You shouldn’t of had to shave the snub mount. Instead you should have loosened the four bolts for the cage so that it can wiggle around, tighten the core support with it centered where the big T45 Torx/13 mm (depending on if you have a B6 or B7) bolts go by the low speed impact shocks, tighten the rest of the T30 Torx bolts for the core support, start the engine and let it idle, rev the engine once or twice to 3K rpms and then let it idle for a minute, shut the engine off, center the cage around the snub mount, and tighten the bolts for the cage. The front of these cars is floating so it is adjustable to a large degree and by doing what I said then everything is centered where it should be. You can still go back and do what I said if you want to. Should only want to take a hour or two. This procedure is required for the zero clearance snub mount cage if you want it to be done right. Live and learn right. I know that I have had to learn the hard way about certain things.

Otherwise the rubber mounts are only going to stiffen up the car a bit. The all metal mounts really lock everything in place but you do get more NVH. I don’t mind it in my car but I am a bit numb to vibrations.

Done it all

I did that. It wasn’t the up and down adjustment that was a problem. I could never get it to stop touching the passenger side of the cage and the vibration was killing me. I couldn’t get the snub to center left and right.

Well I think I found the root of the problem. While I was changing my oil on thursday I found out that my snub mount cage was not tightened by the shop that worked on my car in may. They installed my compressor and mounts. Makes me think what else they forgot to tighten…

WOW that would do it. That can cause all kinds of issues.

Well snub mount cage got rid of about 90% of the issues. I have to find that last 10%. I may look into doing the diff carrier inserts when it cools off a lot here.

I would go over the rest of the mounts too before spending more money. You might have already but I just figured that I should mention that.

I totally agree. I plan on it when it cools off some.