Dyno Log..opinions welcomed

B6/7 S4/RS4
#41

Your going to need a tune to get over 600. What will help is ditching your intake. Try using a k&n in your stock air box and modify the stock air box to take the hose you clip into your current intake.

Also keep running good gas you can see how everyone recommend it and how it helped.

As for the timing pull there are times that you will see timing pull and you should investigate. Knowing the condition of your car and knowing it’s clean of carbon the plugs and filters are good you should know that now and tuned the car will pull timing more depending on the environment. Right now the air is hot and think expect to see less timing pull then when the air is cold and think. The worst condition is hot and muggy. You will know your RS4 is running to its limits on the stock tune when you see your throttle body shutting during the run.

Saki said it best. If your going to log consistentsy is what you need to make sure of.

#42

No, not yet.
I need the cable to arrive as well.

#43

Thanks for the advice.

Will replace the intake and flash it and then run some more logs and post them here for comparison reasons. I am expecting that under similar conditions i should be able to gain some 20hp.

#44

yeah, 600 rpm/second would be on point. 575 is solid for a stock car. 600 or so for piggies. Closer to 675-700 for tune and full exhaust. This assumes nice cold weather and 0 elevation. As a baseline.

If you are going to do so anyway, I would replace the intake NOW and do some logging like that for a couple of days with the stock airbox. See how good or bad the intake actually was in hot weather situations.

#45

You should see about 20hp difference. But keep in mind the JHM tune adds a ton of power tq and acceleration it does so by making sure the car and make safe power. If your sucking in super hot air or its not safe conditions the car isn’t going to make as much. In ideal conditions as Saki said the car will pick up tons of power with the JHM tune and mods you have.

I think changing the air box now will help but the change will be more dramatic after you have the tune. Right now the stock tune is pulling a buntch of power anyways.

#46

Thanks for the advice. I will change the airbox back to OEM as per the previous suggestions and snap the CAF to it while removing the airbox flap. Unfortunately when inspecting it today i saw that one of the hose attachments was broken while removing it, so i need to identify the part, order it and wait for delivery before being able to install it.

I am truly looking forward to feeling the difference in torque and power by the JHM tune.

Lets see how this performs and next will be a supercharger. That will provide more than enough power!

#47

The biggest thing to always think is… take your time do it right. The good thing about the rs4 is lots of guys have already shown the best path to safe performance. Even better all of them are on this site. Your doing it right.

#48

It is always preferable to follow the lead of others that have been there and done that.

Got a question though…i remember reading somewhere that once a deflap of the airbox takes place a guy performed a throttle body alignment and an engine adaptation. I know about TBA with VCDS but have never come across what he means by engine re-adaptation. Any ideas what he meant by that?

#49

Don’t you have 100 RON at every station? When I was in greece, it was only 95 and 100. I’d always use 100.

#50

That sounds rs246ish…:slight_smile:

I wouldn’t worry about it. At all.

#51

haha, think about that…what exactly will “re-adapt” in your engine. Your timing is set mechanically, all of the sensors are monitors…so in the end the only thing attached to the engine that can be adapted is your TB.

Whoever said that shouldn’t be allowed to own a computer, let alone an RS4.

He probably meant unhooking the battery, but tried to make it sound sophisticated.

#52

Yes we do have either 95 or 100.
It is just that the price difference between the two is big when using this car as a daily driver.

#53

Honestly it is not. I read it here…

http://www.audiworld.com/forums/rs4-b7-platform-discussion-121/just-deflapped-airbox-thing-rocket-2712511/

Read 5th paragraph, 2nd line…

#54

Found some time today to deal with the OEM inbox. It turns out that i may not need the spare part after all.

When i unplugged the hose that is attached on the flap’s solenoid valve, i broke the hose’s attachment (plastic ring). I spent a couple of minutes to remove the flap by taking out the part of the airbox that holds the flap (unscrew it from the airbox), unscrew the valve, release the clips and open it in half, remove the flap and close it again.

So i am think since the flap is out, do i really need to solenoid valve on to avoid any faults? My thinking and i could be wrong, is not really since already the car is with no solenoid valve.

In essence i will be using the airbox the same way as the Revolution intake, only it is going to be the OEM airbox.

#55

Yes I did this years ago on my b6 S4. I noticed better flow down low where the flap would have been closed.

#56

Just finished flashing the car with the JHM tune.

Easy process aside from some glitches in properly installing their newly released browser and the cable drivers.

Look forward to logging the car now before i switch to the OEM airbox.

#57

This might sound weird but you will you you did it right when you see the difference. These tests have beeen done over here for years and years. Each time showing the gained performance from the stock air box. Remember not each situation will show a major difference. Some rpm driving conditions will be closer then others.

#58

I will first log with the existing revolution intake and check for any difference in rpm/sec, especially now that we have somewhat colder ambient temps vs. my last log (untuned and high ambient). I am expecting to see an improvement.

#59

Yeah that would be good to see if there’s tune Delta.

We tested my car vs mistro and found the following

When we were both stock, I was always 1 tenth faster and about 1 mph faster at the dragstrip.

When he got all his JHM mods including tune and exhaust and low rotors/flywheel, and we went head to head when I had full JHM exhaust with cats (same exhaust as mistro) he was now a full 3 tenths and 3 mph faster than me.

So the tune, low rotors and low flywheel got him 4 tenths and 4 mph. That’d about 40 hp.

The rotors and lwfw are a total of 23-24 lbs rotating. Not sure what that means in theoretical power equivalent to produce the same acceleration. Maybe 1 to 1.5 tenths? 1 to 1.5 mph? So tune looks to be about 2-3 tenths/mph or about 20-30 hp.

#60

Sneaked some time form the family today to do a quick pull.

I must admit I am a bit confused with the results.

Ambient temp around 27 Celcius (same as previous pulls)
1/3 tank of 93 Oct (BP ultimate 100octane)
JHM Tune
Piggies, etc…

10kms after the tune, this is the result.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/8i6kmw6ixgcobhm/31082014.xlsx?dl=0

and the prvious pulls for comparison

Driving is now smoother in gear changes esp. 1st, 2nd, 3rd.
I feels like it is pulling better, but rpm/sec are not that dramatically different from the pulls prior to the tune.
For some reason it is now correcting a lot more! Especially cylinders 1 & 2 starting from low revs. What could that be???

Previous pulls for comparison.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/cz1vyno07nfqexi/LOG-01-028-20F-1104-113E-1207_2nd.xlsx?dl=0

As I did not have enought itme i did not log the torque. Will do so tomorrow at another pull so as to calcualte HP.