engine drop, pickup point locations and AC question

A6 All/ S6 All
#1

There was a gent here who had a dropbox folder of his complete engine teardown and reseal. made a nice table too i think.
Unfortunately the link does not work anymore, anyone know who that was?
Or have dimensions for the pickup points for the subframe? or am i overthinkign it, and just make a stury large square platform to rest the car against, undo subframe bolts than lift the car back up on the hoist?

Regarding AC, FSM says to undo the lines at the compressor and thats about it, no other mention.
So i go get it evaced, and then what? Just plug the holes? Having the system exposed for a few weeks at a time would introduce moisture into it, at which point dont you need to replace the dryer as well?

Thanks

#2

Yes, you will need to replace the drier.

#3

It’s in the S6 section I can look for the DB link and drop it in your thread.

As for the table they didn’t have any thing special and from all the motor drops I have done I would also say don’t go over board just get a table that is long enough for the motor and transmission and narrow enough to fit between the suspension. The rest of the support points you can use 2x4s and small other bits of wood once you find the locations for support.

As for the AC once you evac the system put painters tape over the open ports and over the hoses where they are exposed. Before you put the tape on them put some Vaseline on the O rings to help keep them from drying out. After you have put the Vaseline and painters tape on put much stronger duct tape over that to help keep it sealed.

The AC compressors on the S4s are the same as on the S6 they fail about 6 months after you drain them no matter how hard you work to try and save them. So it might be a consideration of replaceing the AC compressor. I think you can get one for like 400 if you shop around. As for the dryer always a good idea to replace that but if you have a qualified shop drain and fill the system they should be able to refill the system with no issues on an old dryer if you managed to tape off the ports.

#4

jesus, 250$ for the dryer for OEM unit…is this what you guys paid when you drop the engine each time?!
plus ac compressor…that is a heck of an expensive engine drop…

#5

There is the link.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/sgft6l1ldb0vq8j/AADD1MxEeHuIT1zTYowfCk0ra?dl=0

#6

IF you use extreme caution you can save the dryer. Just make sure to cap and tape it off and don’t do it on a high moisture day.

#7

Thanks, thats the one i had bookmrked but the link broke for some reason.

so, this is one of my problems as well, the leak between the head and cam carrier interface. looks like a gasket. DO you have a PN for this one? Also did you need to buy or make any special tools when resetting the timing afterwards?

Thanks!

#8

07L103649A Cylinder 6-10
07L103650A Cyinder 1-5

http://www.realoem.me/Audi/USA/A6/2007/448/R/1/103/103062

#9

oo this is a very very nice parts lookup tool, thanks!!

#10

Ok last question (for now), the hard to access O2 sensors which require an Engine drop.
are these referred to up stream? (i assume so as they are pre cat). Assume Bosch is the OEM for these, can anyone supply a PN? not sure which one is correct from the above website and rock auto has tons of choices.

Thanks

#11

I can’t take credit… it was one of the other users (name escapes me) that posted something from it. Very useful site indeed. Lots of good diagrams. Should sticky that and the PDF of the engine white paper from Audi.

Here’s the main site - searchable for any Audi:
http://www.realoem.me/Audi/USA

White Paper on V10 engine:
http://www.vaglinks.com/vaglinks_com/docs/ssp/VWUSA.COM_SSP_923603_5.2lL_V10_FSI_Engine.pdf

#12

NP. Check these threads out. All part numbers and all about the cats.

http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=4598.0

http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=3808.msg126026#new

I’m building up to pulling my engine in the next few months and cutting out the cats and replacing the O2 sensor. Would love to buy headers, but it’s a bit steep for me right now, so I will do the cheaper way.

#13

yes the headers are unfortunately very expensive, but very worth it if you can fork the cash over. My boss’s boss was actually the lead engineer on the BSM 5.2 engine program in Germany. when ge found out i bought an s8 first thing he said was, so when are you gutting the cats :D?

as we have seen with headers and a tune the amount of power uncorked is really astonishing. Im looking forward to your catless and tuned results! I cant pony up the tune cash at the moment unfortunately, but i am removing the 2 resonators though!

#14

Out of those ones listed…which are the actual ones that require engine out? Perhaps its self explanatory when you are in there, however I typically like to have all my parts ahead of time to save time.
Thanks!

#15

I don’t want to accidently get this wrong but I think its bank 2 and 4 that you can’t get to with the motor in the car. otherwise it will extremely obvious once you drop the motor.

#16

It’s the o2 sensors closest to the engine.

#17

I can repost the link from my engine rebuild.

#18

Yes that would be helpful.
Looking through the FSM, I see when reinstalling the cam carrier they say to use sealant. however the OEM gasket is also available…which one to use??

#19

I mean to mention this some where. The A4 had the same issues where the gaskets on the carrier failed. So Audi went to straight sealant and has not seen any issues since. While you can still get the OEM gasket I would use sealant. That is what has been issue free.

Also when you pull the chain off your going to need a special alignment tool. I doubt its the same as the tool for the 4.2 but if it is the same I can lend you mine.