Engine warning light

A6 All/ S6 All
#1

Hi,

This came on for the first time this morning, it stays on, is orange, does not flash. The car seems to sound and drive fine, I’ve had no issues leading up to it. There are no other warning lights (see pic).

I looked in the handbook and it was related to the catalytic converter.


https://s4.postimg.org/8xat83c8p/s6_warning_light.jpg

Just so happens to be going in for an Audi interim service next week so I guess I’ll soon find out, but would like to get a heads up for worst case scenario :o -

any thoughts.

Cheers,

#2

Without knowing what sensor triggered the code, it’s pretty hard to guess. VAG-COM would get you a more precise diagnosis. Did you try resetting the code and see if it comes back?

#3

I’m a newb, how do I do that? :stuck_out_tongue:

#4

Personally, I wouldn’t reset it without finding out what it is first. If you can get your hands on a scanner to reset it, you should be able to lookup what caused it, or at least read the code first.

VAGcom is a diagnostics scanner many people use, well worth the price of admission for anyone doing any work themselves, or having any interest in what’s going on with the inner workings of these cars and not being at a (sometimes questionable) dealership’s word for it.

#5

And… I forgot I can’t edit my posts here.

That said, generally, most Service Advisors would tell you if the light is on solid but the car is having no other issues running, it’s okay to drive for a short time until you can get it in to the shop. Flashing light, get it towed… From my past experiences, a car with an issue big enough to have a flashing light would require a tow to get anywhere, anyways.

#6

Thanks all. Will something like this do the job: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Audi-Professional-Diagnostic-Scan-Tool-iCarsoft-VAGII-VAG2/272093116551?_trksid=p2047675.c100009.m1982&_trkparms=aid%3D888007%26algo%3DDISC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D39840%26meid%3D4c3aa054b7944b709933908d3a478380%26pid%3D100009%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26sd%3D302102300811

I actually develop software for health and usage systems on helocopters, I can’t believe how naive I’ve been ::slight_smile:

It can’t be rocket science using this sort of kit. Looking on various forums etc it seems to suggest you can even reset/stop fault codes from appearing. Therefore, if any car dealer wanted, they can just hack a car with issues to make it look fit for sale ;D I wonder if the log files can be completely wiped/reset too.

#7

A few quick things.

Members get edit post ability after 150 posts.

Plop how do you know its related to the cat.

The scanner you showed will clear and remove codes. Your right most people clear codes when they are trying to sell there car most any automotive parts store will read and clear codes for you. The way to know if someone cleared codes recently on your car is to check and see if the readyness tests have completed.

If you want to get serious about your car I would suggest spending the extra money with ross tech. The ross tech cable will allow you to do many more things that the general scanner wont let you do. Ross tech has a direct relationship with the manufacture so they have a good hold on technology.

As for the code it would be very important to know what the code is for and the sooner the better. Some of the issues with the v10 cars can be serious if left unchecked for too long.

#8

Hi there.

I looked in the manual and that Yellow indicator lamp relates to the ‘Emission Control System’ page 21. I looked there and it said if continuous take it to workshop, if flashes 'drive at reduced speed, seek professional help to avoid damage to the cat." :o

I also noticed this:

“Never run the tank completely dry. An irregular fuel supply could cause misfiring. As a result, unburnt fuel could enter the catalytic converter and cause damage.”

I only do 3 x 50 mile round trips times a week. On those trips I do give it a good few prolonged kickdowns on some nice straights, and I am a bit guilty running the tank down to red line, then filling her up beginning of the next week, so maybe this is not great. The cars at 89k now, 1 previous owner, full Audi history, pretty dam immaculate… but I know that does not save me from the Carbon Cleaning Spaghetti Monster :slight_smile:

#9

Running the tank “to the red line” should not be a problem. The problem they describe (which I don’t know how true it is) would be the result of running the car OUT of gas - as in, air in the fuel lines.

#10

Hey plopzilla, that light is the check engine light and it could be any number of things. You’re gonna need to scan the car yourself or have whoever is working on the car scan it for you to see what codes are showing up for an actual diagnosis. Here’s the page you can order the Ross-Tech scanner Justin mentioned from:

http://store.ross-tech.com/shop/cat/VCDS.html

It’s nice to have the scanner if you do any of your own work or just for peace of mind. I keep a laptop and my scanner in my car so if I ever get a warning light, CEL or not, I can scan it really quick and get an idea of what’s going on. I think the dealerships charge something like $150 around me to scan your car with the VAGCOM so it can pay for itself pretty quickly. Good luck with everything.

#11

As MDUBZ said it can be almost anything. Emmisions related stuff goes well beyond the cat itself. Missfires are technically a emmsions related fault so are bad injectors and 02 sensors. So you really want to get a good idea on what the code is.

Even if you take the car into a shop you really want to make sure they give you the codes that the car stored for this event.

#12

Thank you again for the advice all. The Ross-Tech kit looks great, but understandably a fair bit more than the lower end eBay kit I was looking at.

I think I will wait to see what Audi say on Thursday.

So when I take it in, I can ask for a list of all fault codes current and pending?

Is there anything else I should specifically ask them to check while being serviced (within reason :).

Cheers.

#13

As for the vag com it has tons more functions than the lower end unit. If you just want to be able to read and clear codes there is a chance that the lower end unit will be able to do that. and there is nothing wrong with that. You can get cheaper units if you just want to read and clear codes.

The dealer should be able to both email and print you out all the codes that are stored in the cars modules.

The down side of not knowing what is wrong before you take it in to the dealer makes it a little hard to give you too much direction. Once you know what the codes are then I think we can all give you lots of suggestions.

Let us know what the dealer says.

#14

I can say is I have had the cheap ebay kit 13 years ago. It worked for simple mods but not for clearing codes or reading then properly. Search a ton of audi forums and find a used unit for less. It is going to pay for it self. My audi dealerships have started charging 30 min labor to scan cars so after a couple scans you could have had your own unit.

#15

Plop this may be a long shot but take a look at your coolant reservoir. After a “spirited” drive, I had my CEL come on. I then noticed my coolant reservoir very low and got coolant warnings every time I turn the car on. I bought the G12 coolant and refilled, then days later the same coolant warning reappeared. I say all this to say it could be something simple as a hose that came loose due to how high you bring those RPMS when driving.

#16

Thanks. I had a look (sorry about the crap pic) and does seem to be a quite a bit down to be honest - not remotely near the MAX line.


https://s17.postimg.org/d0mya6rln/20161031_200057.jpg

#17

With it cool, open it up and look inside. How far down is it from the max mark inside?

#18

This is criminal, I’m never gunna make it as any sort of gear head at this rate :slight_smile:

I looked this morning and I’d say about 5mm under LOW, not good I guess.

Also, maybe its always been this way, but I started to notice the Aircon comes on at startup at about 11 which is annoying as its too loud and high (5 seems fine most of the time) - is there a reason for this?

#19

The container is hard to see the levels where the fluid is at so dont feel bad.

As for the AC that is the last setting usually that the car was saved under. Change the temp and settings before you get out and hold auto down for 5 seconds that should set it lower.

#20

Ok, so Audi service came back with:

Engine light on dash - fault stored with cylinder 2 misfire - further investigation required.

Says on video think it could be Spark plug/Coil issue

Am waiting to hear back after further investigation.