EPC/CEL -- Ideas (Log included)

Guys:

Finished up my carbon clean late in the week and installed a replacement P&P intake manifold (de-flapped), JHM intake spacers, TB bypass, and replaced the air filter, sparkplugs, and fuel filter. Okay, so yesterday I fire her up and actually get some driving in. Wow, I definitely have more oomph in later RPMs and it feels smoother down low as well. Car feels great! I drive about 30-40 miles and then the EPC light turns on. And within another 15 miles or so the CEL illuminates and the car definitely feels like it is in semi-limp mode.

Last night I ran VCDS and cleared several codes (I have the log but not posted here), hoping they wouldn’t reappear. Well, today I turned the car on and drove about 2 miles and the CEL turned on but not the EPC. And then after shutting down and restarting, got both back on. So, below is the log.

I was very careful reinstalling the manifold so I don’t think that I broke the flap actuator arms. And the fact that I drove 30+ miles with no problems makes me think that they were fine. Maybe my flap sensors are bad? Maybe something else? Either way, I am nervous I am going to have yank the damn manifold out again and either replace it with my stock one or have to deal with very painful (and labor intense) troubleshooting over the next couple weeks. Ideas??

Most recent log (omitted a random radio and alarm code):

Chassis Type: 8E - Audi A4 B6/B7
Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 0F 11 15 16 17 18 36 37 45 46 55 56 57 65 67
69 75 76 77

VIN: XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX Mileage: 55670km/34591miles

Address 01: Engine Labels: 079-910-560-BNS1.lbl
Part No SW: 8E1 910 560 A HW: 8E1 907 560
Component: 4.2L V8/4V FSI ª0060
Revision: 57H13— Serial number: XXXXXXXXXXXXXX

2 Faults Found:
008213 - Intake Manifold Flap Position Sensor (Bank 1): Implausible Signal
P2015 - 008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 10101000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 55672 km
Time Indication: 0

        Freeze Frame:
               RPM: 1532 /min
               Load: 19.6 %
               Speed: 45.0 km/h
               Temperature: 59.0°C
               Temperature: 23.0°C
               Absolute Pres.: 990.0 mbar
               Voltage: 13.716 V

006435 - Please Check DTC Memory of ECU Number 2
P1923 - 008 - Implausible Signal
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 55674 km
Time Indication: 0

        Freeze Frame:
               RPM: 0 /min
               Load: 0.0 %
               Speed: 0.0 km/h
               Temperature: 80.0°C
               Temperature: 48.0°C
               Absolute Pres.: 990.0 mbar
               Voltage: 11.938 V

Readiness: 0010 0101


Address 11: Engine II Labels: 079-910-560-BNS2.lbl
Part No SW: 8E1 910 560 A HW: 8E1 907 560

1 Fault Found:
008217 - Intake Manifold Flap Position Sensor (Bank 2): Electrical Malfunction
P2019 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100010
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 55552 km
Time Indication: 0

        Freeze Frame:
               RPM: 158 /min
               Load: 91.7 %
               Speed: 0.0 km/h
               Temperature: 15.0°C
               Temperature: 19.0°C
               Absolute Pres.: 980.0 mbar
               Voltage: 9.652 V

I believe there was a way to run an actuator test through vagcom so you can actually check if they are working. It is possible you had a vacuum hose pop off or something. If you can confirm that everything moves as it should, it is likely a bad sensor or connector on the sensor.

why not contact Tim? Sounds like you installed a ported and polished manifold from him (since you referred to also having a stock one)

See what he says…I’m sure he has some input.

tim again

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm303/silverRS4/RS4-flaptest.jpg

[quote]Hello – for those of you who are curious and have access to VCDS (Vagcom). This test takes 20 minutes tops and it is well worth your time. If you don’t have VCDS, I suggest you check out the Ross-Tech website and invest in VCDS…your RS4 will thank you for it.

The function test needs to be done shortly after the car has been running. Several of the tests require vacuum reserve, including the flap tests. There are other criteria, but VCDS does not explain what they are. You may get a message stating “Requirements for Output Test not Met”. You will also get this message if you abort the Output test and then try to start over. Read these steps so that you know what to expect and don’t have to start over. But in the event you need to try it again, just close VCDS, start the engine and let it idle for a while, turn it off and then try the Output test again.

PHOTO 1 – Remove the inlet snorkel that goes from the grill area to the top of the airbox. There are (2) screws that secure the front of it and the rear portion just snaps into the airbox. The snorkel is made up of two parts, but it shouldn’t have to be separated to remove or install. There is also a small screen where the snorkel snaps into the airbox (on US models anyway).

PHOTO 2 – If you are doing this test by yourself, position the laptop close to the engine so that you can easily monitor the flaps once you start the test.

PHOTO 3 – The yellow arrow is pointing at the Power Flap inside the airbox. It is easily visible with a good flashlight. There is another photo of what the power flap inside the airbox (filter box) looks like a few posts down.

PHOTO 4 – The white arrow is pointing at the white plastic arm that rotates the Intake manifold shaft on this particular side of the manifold. There is an identical white arm on the opposite side of the manifold that will also rotate during the test.

From VCDS Main screen:

  • Click on “Select” button to go to the control module list

  • Click on the “01- Engine” module

  • Click on “Output Tests -03”

  • There are several operational tests that can now be performed, they are done in a sequential order, and the ones you are not concerned with can’t be skipped. Luckily, there are only (2) other tests prior to the ones we care about. There are several other tests after the flap tests, but you can cancel out of the testing at that time. The first test is “Voltage supply relay”. To start the test, click the “activate” button. You will hear a clicking sound as the relay is checked. To stop the test quickly, click the same button again. The second test is “Signal line for fuel pump”. Again, click the activate button twice quickly to start and stop the test. The third test is now “Intake Air Switch Over Valve”. The test will tell the ECM to activate the vacuum-operated solenoid that opens and closes the power flap in the airbox, just upstream of the air filter.

  • Be sure you are in position with a light to watch the flap (Photo 3). Click the activate button. The solenoid will start cycling the valve. I suggest you only let it cycle 2-3 times so that there is sufficient vacuum reserve left for the Manifold Flap test. Click the button again to stop the test.

  • The next test is “Intake Manifold bank 1”. It actually tests both banks because the solenoid being checked (the Intake manifold runner control valve) operates 2 diaphragms, one for each bank. There is a picture below that shows the underside of the manifold.

  • The easiest part of the runner flap movement to see is the white, plastic arms that are being rotated by the diaphragms (Photo 4). Click activate and the solenoid will start cycling the flaps. Try to view both white plastic arms as they move. Click again to stop the test.

-If you’d like to check the operation of the OEM muffler flaps, click the activate button quickly to progress through the outputs tests until you get to the Exhaust Flap check. Press Activate again and the Exhaust flap solenoid will begin to cycle open and closed. If you quickly walk towards the back of the car, you should hear the flaps opening and closing. By this point in the testing, you may be getting low on vacuum reserve and the flaps may only open/close a few times. Click again to stop the test.

  • Click “Done” to cancel the Output testing.

Notes on what you’ve just tested:
If the operational checks show that the ECM can successfully operate the flaps during the tests, you can be quite sure that the ECM operates them successfully while the car is being driven. It’s the same signal. An Intake Manifold Flap problem should definitely cause a CEL since there are sensors that monitor whether they are opening and closing as commanded. The position of the Manifold flaps can be logged with VCDS using the Advanced Measuring Value feature. The blocks of interest are in Group 142 and you can log both specified and actual values. The specified values are either 0% (tumble position) or 99.6% (no tumble position). The specified and actual values of the Exhaust Flap position can be logged as well. They are in Group 79 and the values are either ON or OFF. The position of the Power flap in the airbox is not monitored with a sensor. Hence, there is no variable you can log with VCDS to see what it’s doing in real time (that I know of). Depending on ambient conditions, the RS4 usually exhibits a noticeable increase in power at around 5500-6000 RPM. When the airbox power flap opens at 5000 rpm, the intake sound of the engine should become slightly louder and more raspy. The opening of the flap is NOT responsible for the power increase, it just accommodates the increased airflow demand that coincides with the power increase. If you do hear the intake sound change at around 5000 rpm under full throttle, the airbox power flap is probably working fine.

Known issues (rare, but they have happened):
The RS4 vacuum system is not very complicated, but the same network of vacuum lines controls all the flaps discussed. The testing procedure and info in this post should help determine if an issue exists.

  1. There have been instances where the vacuum hose feeding the airbox flap is pinched during vehicle assembly at the factory. This renders the airbox flap non-operative, but doesn’t affect the other flap systems.

  2. The airbox power flap is a plastic flap that turns about 90 degrees in a plastic housing it has been known to stick either fully open, fully closed or at some position in between. So the vacuum lines are intact, but the flap doesn’t physically rotate as it should. No affects on the other flap systems, but see related intake air temperature issues in Issue 3 below. Sometimes some emery cloth on the flap perimeter and housing bore is all it takes to get the flap to move as it should.

  3. Some RS4 owners are so enamored with the raspy, aggressive intake sound that the airbox power flap creates, they decide to remove the flap altogether. This may change the intake sound at lower RPMs, but now the engine is sucking in very hot engine compartment air ALL the time. Audi engineers designed the flap to open at high road/engine speeds for a reason - because there is sufficient air movement thru the engine compartment to ensure the air entering the open flap is relatively cool. The RS4 is extremely sensitive to inlet air temperature (IAT). Power will drop and ignition timing will be overly retarded if the IAT becomes high. The same goes for Issue 2 with a flap that is stuck open - the IAT will be elevated and engine output will suffer.

  4. RS4 owners replace their mufflers with aftermarket mufflers that are not equipped with the vacuum operated valves. This is fine as long as the vacuum line going to each valve is plugged. If they are not plugged, there will be a vacuum leak in the entire flap system every time the Exhaust solenoids are commanded to open. This gets difficult to trace since the command depends on RPM, Sport Mode on/off, and even road speed. The biggest problem is the intake manifold tumble flaps require vacuum to maintain their commanded ‘Open’ position at higher RPMs. If the Exhaust valve hose(s) are compromised (not plugged), the resulting vacuum leak will probably cause the manifold tumble flaps to surely start to move back to their tumble (Closed) position, which will cause a dramatic power loss since airflow into the engine will be greatly impeded by the closed tumble flaps.

  5. Cases of unusually high amounts of carbon buildup in the intake valve area can create buildup around the intake tumble flaps. If excessive, the flaps may not be able to move their full range. This should throw a CEL (tumble flap implausible signal) as well as a EPC light. See your dealer. If you want to check the tumble flap positions yourself with VCDS, the blocks of interest are in Group 142 and you can log both specified and actual values. The specified values are either 0% (tumble position- Closed) or 99.6% (no tumble position - Open). The flaps are normally commanded to be Open at engine speeds higher than 2500 rpm, so vary the engine speed while you do the log. If your actual positions are more than 10% different than the specified position, chances are that is the reason for the implausible signal CEL.

  6. One of the tumble flap position sensors simply goes bad. This should throw a CEL (tumble flap implausible signal) as well as a EPC light even though the vacuum system and flaps are functioning fine. See your dealer. You can also log what the actual and specified flap positions are as explained above in Issue 5.

Happy testing!
[/quote]

Thanks for the advice – I emailed him around the same time I posted this thread. He has already replied and recommended I do a log of group 142 (need to verify) to look at runner flap position as well as doing the flap test. I’ll get to it at some point this week and report back. My worst fear is having to pull the manifold out (although I bet I can get it done in ~2 hours) and either not be able to identify what the problem truly is without swapping things kind of randomly, reinstalling, and hoping for the best. Oh yeah, and I do get nervous that everytime I take things apart, I increase the chance of breaking something during the reinstall.

There you go, that is the post I was thinking of, didn’t know it was also written by Tim.

Check back for sure. There shouldn’t be any codes I remember I ttook off my intake and had no issues. Sounds like a vaccination line might be off. The good news is its nothing too serious and now you have intake spaces

I think his car ate him. He hasn’t posted in 2 days!

Nah, I am still here. Couple things. I am incredibly busy at work which makes it hard to spend time doing car stuff. I’ll get to it. Also, I don’t have a long enough USB cable so I ordered one and it will be here tomorrow. 10’ will allow me to have the computer in my engine bay.

Tonight I’ll start to poke around and see if a visible vacuum line is disconnected (there is one in particular I am concerned about) and I’ll also try to look at the plastic arms on the manifold while installed. Will be super hard to see but will try. I am hoping this is a simple fix but have already prepared myself for having to remove the intake manifold again. It actually isn’t a big deal but my wife is going to be pissed ;D

Duh…well, I think I found the culprit. Maybe I was a little too forceful when putting this line on?? It worked fine for about 30-40 miles and then obviously split on me. I’ll replace after getting a little more line from the parts store. I’ll probably add an inline connector to ease with manifold replacement in the future. Its a bit of a PITA to reach otherwise. And this time I’ll lube the line up with some dish soap so it goes on easier.

http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg28/scaled.php?server=28&filename=vacuumline.jpg&res=landing

good stuff

would be cool to get some dragstrip passes in to compare to your other runs. Only change is carbon + PnP?

TypeRX, can you circle the area in the picture that was the culprit with p-shop or similar?

Here you go.

http://i46.tinypic.com/1pbe4i.png

Got the hose back on last night (ended up just cutting the damaged part off and using the stock line – wire tied it to the adjacent hose to keep things stable) but didn’t drive the car until earlier tonight. EPC/CEL is gone and car definitely has a much more pronounced kick up top. Feels good.

I plan on going to the dragstrip again in 2 to 3 weeks. The whole reason why I did the baseline runs previously was in anticipation of this change. I’ll go again later when I put in piggies (I already made them with an extra set of downpipes) and hopefully a tune. Just waiting on the vendor to make it available! 8)

In addition the CC and use of the P&P and deflapped intake manifold, I have added JHM intake spacers and the oil separator coolant bypass. I also did some regular maintenance, which included a new air filter, sparkplugs, fuel filter, and engine oil/filter change. I’ll work on a full CC DIY over the coming weeks.

And thanks Silver B6 S4 for putting that circle on. Before I saw your post I added one with paint but now won’t bother putting it up. That vacuum tee is located under the front small carbon fiber cover (just in front of the intake manifold). The vacuum line that got messed up is the only vacuum line you need to remove to remove the manifold as it is connected to the manifold flap actuators.

Here is a comparison of my stock intake manifold with the one I swapped on. One interesting thing is that my car had a manifold from 11/06 but the P&P one is from 8/08. The only visual difference with the newer manifold is the lack of the “Vijay port”.

http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/4928/ppdmanifold.jpg

And here are the spacers.

http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/9813/spacers.jpg

Thanks, looks like the “t” at the front of the motor.

Sorry for the necro bump… I just ran these tests and have a question:

Is the Intake Air Switch Over Valve test supposed to fully open and close the valve? The test opens mine and then it flips back and forth like its stuck in the open position.

edit: heres a video if what its doing https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I9KRieMPzD8

Sorry for the necro bump… I just ran these tests and have a question:

Is the Intake Air Switch Over Valve test supposed to fully open and close the valve? The test opens mine and then it flips back and forth like its stuck in the open position.

edit: heres a video if what its doing https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I9KRieMPzD8

I saw this the other day and couldnt find it for some reason. If your flap is moving through the full range on the test that’s supposed to happen. Is just pulsing the flap. If it’s not opening all the way then check to see what’s holding it up.

I saw this the other day and couldnt find it for some reason. If your flap is moving through the full range on the test that’s supposed to happen. Is just pulsing the flap. If it’s not opening all the way then check to see what’s holding it up.