Sorry, had to look back. I thought OP had used the JHM timing kit.
I was just pointing out that it says on the website that the kit contains an updated version of the guide that fails the most. But if OP didn’t use the JHM kit then just disregard.
Sorry, had to look back. I thought OP had used the JHM timing kit.
I was just pointing out that it says on the website that the kit contains an updated version of the guide that fails the most. But if OP didn’t use the JHM kit then just disregard.
I used all genuine Audi parts, but the same part in the JHM kit looks the same. I haven’t physically seen the JHM Part, but in their pictures it looks like the Audi item.
Sorry for delay in completing the Part by Part write up.
Now my car is up and running properly, I have the time to complete it and I will be adding the remaining parts very shortly.
A few people have asked me the correct procedure for testing those dodgy Electronic Camshaft Adjuster Solenoids/Actuators…
Here you go :
[i][b]1. Measure the internal resistance of the Camshaft Adjuster Solenoid N205. The resistance should be between 10 and 18 ohms.
A. Make sure the solenoid does not have an internal short to its body.
One of the wires on the connector (typically pin 1) has B+ with the engine running.
The other wire (typically pin 2) is an Engine Control Module (ECM) controlled ground. With a factory compatible scan tool, select Address Word 01-Engine. Select Function 03-Output Diagnostic Test Mode (DTM). This is an actuator test.
A. Verify the ECM can provide a ground path to the N205 solenoid.
B. If there is no ground path provided, check the wiring between the solenoid and ECM for open circuits and short circuits.
A. With no power applied to the N205 solenoid, observe the 4th display field (Active Camshaft Adjustment Angle). It should read between -3 and +6 degrees KW if the camshaft is in the normal un-advanced position.
B. Manually apply B+ and ground to the N205 solenoid. The 4th display field should read between +16 and +25 degrees KW. This indicates the camshaft has shifted to the full advance position. (Operate the solenoid long enough to get scan tool reading and hear a change in sound from the engine.)
C. Repeat step B a dozen times. Every time the solenoid is energized, it has to go to the same high value. Every time the solenoid is de-energized, it has to go to the same low value.
D. If the values are not as specified, this indicates either an issue with the Camshaft Adjuster or oil circuits.
A. Verify oil pressure with a fully warmed up engine. Typical specs are as follows:
At idle, oil pressure should be 1.2-1.6 bar (17-23 PSI). At 2000 RPM, oil pressure should be 2.5-4.5 bar (36-65 PSI).
Be sure to verify oil pressure specs for specific applications.
B. Remove the valve cover and inspect the pad that the timing chain rides on. Any damage to the pad is found, the camshaft adjuster will need to be replaced.
C. Verify the timing belt and timing chain timing. All marks must line up together. There has to be 16 rollers between the timing marks for the timing chain.
[/b][/i]
More great stuff. All very helpful information.