Easier to remove the control arm bolts at the spring hat top (5/8; 16mm) and that should give you enough room to pull things out. Then you’re not dealing with the pinch bolt (which should come out easily) if you’ve done the control arms) Like wise you can take the pinch bolt out too.
I try to leave any kind of ball joint alone if I can.
You’ll need to detach the sway bar and I would also detach the headlight level sensor arm so that it doesn’t get broken.
The wheel bearing will be in there tight AF. but it’s bolt in. Also you’ll need a press to press the hub separate from the bearing and to press it back in.
LOL such a tough call. I don’t agree that things like this need to be done in pairs. Wheel bearings hardly go bad and when they do its hard to say what caused it. From my experience it can be from hitting a hard enough pot hole that just starts to do damage to the bearing support. Unless you hit with both front tires and that’s unlikely your usually good.
Still if you find the job isn’t that hard to do and its in the budjet not so sure it can hurt just changing out the bearing.
Michigan roads have been hell for the last few years (even by Michigan standards). I’m surprised my wheels haven’t fallen off. I’ve gotten 5 flat tires from pot holes the last 3 years.
I was picturing replacing the passenger side wheel bearing when its early February and about 8 degrees out. That helped me decide.
MICHIGAN ROADS = Change your wheel bearings every spring… Given the mi factor I’d say you can’t go wrong with that move.
In most cases you would say its rare to hit all 4 tires into pot holes at the same time… not in Mi its not. I bent two rims and took out 3 tires over the past seveal years. Now I just avoid certain roads even if it takes me an extra 15 - 20 min to get where I have to go.
