I get a lot of creaking from the front suspension over big bumps and I’m thinking it’s coming from the OEM upper front strut mount to spring contact. I had the wild idea to replace them with the 034 Motorsports density line front strut mounts which are stiffer than OEM and should hold up better long-term since I’m running a coil over kit with firmer springs.
https://store.034motorsport.com/stru...s5-rs5-q5.html
I’ve been reading through this excellent ECS guide on how to install coilovers on the B8.5 chassis which can be found here in PDF format;
http://bd8ba3c866c8cbc330ab-7b26c6f3…horizontal.pdf
Now with that said…I’m wondering if I can shortcut this. Why? I have to replace at least seven types of bolts and nuts as they’re all stretch. Here’s a list with the number needed of each;
(8)Upper carrier bracket to chassis bolts
(2)Upper control arm cross bolt (secures the upper control arms to the knuckle)
(2)Lower strut bracket pinch bolt (fork lower mount)
(2)Front strut fork to control arm bolts
(2)Inner control arm bolt
(2)Inner control arm nut
(2)Stabilizer link bolts
(2)Outer tie rod lock nut
I have yet to determine the actual part numbers for all of the above listed nuts and bolts but will update the post when I look them all up. I’m guessing it’ll add up to more than the cost of the strut mounts, LOL.
Anyway…because the Bilsteins have an adjustable lower perch, I’m thinking I can loosen spring tension enough and I won’t have to fully remove the entire shock/spring/upper mount assembly from the car and take everything apart to replace it. It does look like it’s difficult to get the strut mount off the bracket from what I’ve read. So not sure I’d have enough room to get in there and pry it out or enough leverage to get the new piece in.
So…if I do need to remove the entire assembly, is it really necessary to remove the inboard bolt and disconnect the lower control arm as well as separate the tie rod ball joint? Or could I compress the damper enough to slide the fork lower mount over the top of the lower control arm without removing said arm? Or does the tie rod just get in the way? If it is possible, I could then use a bracket spreader on the fork lower mount and slide it off. Might give me more room to maneuver everything out.
Possible or will I be relegated to doing it by the book?
I do plan on lubing everything necessary while I’m in there.