FS 2007 Imola Yellow RS4 25.5K on Autotrader in MI

http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?zip=08057&endYear=2013&modelCode1=RS4&makeCode1=AUDI&startYear=1981&ownerId=67442239&listingType=all&sellerType=b&searchRadius=0&listingId=326435497

looks like a nice car in MI.

Wheels don’t work. Sell then and the Milltek exhaust. Wheels will fetch 1500 or so. Milltek around 700. Sell them and go back to stock

Offer him 25000 and you get an rs4 for 23,000.

Pretty cheap…but I would bet it has an engine problem. That’s likely why he wants rid of it.

i agree if i were to buy it…

i would no doubt sell the wheels and milltek.

for the price there might be something wrong. if it were me i would do a PPI on it for sure prior to buying.

i would not care about the clutch/suspension or brakes since all of those would be nice mods to add to the car anyway.

main concern would be serious engine/trans or awd type issues.

how much does it cost to rebuild an RS4 engine? i have no clue what the cost is.

there is no such rebuild service

You end up with needing a new engine for around twenty grand with labor…and you turn your old one into a coffee table.

P.S. I missed clutch suspension and brakes…what were they?

I am just saying with a clutch, suspension or brakes you can just replace those with better components at minimal cost compared to the engine…well 3-4K per item but relatively cheap compared with swapping out the short block on the motor.

The short block is about 7K and an entire remanu engine is 12.5K plus core from genuine audi parts

http://genuineaudiparts.com/parts/2008/AUDI/RS4/?siteid=214407&vehicleid=1441580&section=ENGINE&group=ENGINE

still would cost a decent amount if severe engine issues plus labor.

Not feeling the wheels either but he says the stockers go with the car. He wants $1500 extra for the exhaust so I’m guessing it’s downpipes and a catback.

IF the engine is healthy, that’s not a bad deal. Definitely one of the cheapest ways to get into an RS4.

Better double check that ngng didn’t scam his car off to some chap thinking it was a RS4, and now wants half his money back.

I bet it’s a milltek resonated, valved exhaust, and that’s what he wants $1500 for. They’re like $3000 new (yes, just a catback is $3000).

Ah, gotcha. Probably is. I assumed a Milltek RS4 catback was similarly priced to their S4 catback because you said they sold for about $700 above.

Yeah the basic one can sell for that low. The valves is more loot.

Looks like there’s a buyer for the Imola car…

Was it a full exhaust? Or just the catback swesna?

Posted by: swesna
that is the plan…just going to setup a PPI but based on pics I am buying it and talking with the
guy I am buying it. he really is a good guy and it is nice to see AlwaysAudi confirm this.

So are you going to ditch your daytona grey car for this one as a track day car, and then do something else? I thought you were thinking of ‘switching’ to an Ibis White or Sprint Blue or something a while back.

If you get an RS4 for around 23,000…I can’t see it going much lower than $15,000 ever, personally. The rareness helps as does the special nature of the car. Could be a good investment. I have seen people buy RS4s and sell a year or two later for 90-110% of what they paid lately. It’s kinda neat.

just going to keep both for now…and then if it is just stupid to keep both determine which one to sell.

but there is no doubt those 20s will be for sale. they are actually good wheels but i just dont need 20s on an RS4.

i have a friend going to meet up with the guy today to see it in person.

the only reason i am buying it is bc i dont see much of a downside in the car as far as resale even if i only keep it a year. well not the only…i like the bright or rare colors…yellow may not be an everyday color but it would be nice to pull out of the garage once in a while.

i need to put some real thought into which car is better for doing mods on…the lower or higher mileage car.

once/if i get it…i will not make any mods til early next year

i think it is catback…did not really ask too much about the exhaust. the exterior looks great…interior is good with some wear on front seats.

main concern is the state of the engine and trans…

dont care about brakes/suspension or even the clutch too much. he told me for sure it will need front rotors soon…but i got a set new in the basement already, all good there.

You need to get it logged and compression tested etc

what is strange is both dealers that i asked about the PPI said the compression test is not needed that it would be obvious if there were compression issues.

I think they mean that it would be obvious if you had 0 compression in cylinder 3 and had multiple misfires and a CEL…but that’s not what you’re checking with a compression test.

saki i decided to play it safe and have a compression test done as well. also, i am going to have new spark plugs installed while they do it since they need to take out the spark plugs to test the compression.

Swesna,

I wouldn’t DREAM of buying a car with this high of mileage without a compression test. My B7 S4 had 92,000 and ran like a bat out of hell but had low compression on the entire left side of the engine bank. NEVER listen to the stealershiup. You NEED a compression test before buying a high performance german car with that high of mileage.