FYI for folks who have the CPS from when it first came out...

B8 S4
#1

Don’t be like me and wait for a failure… APR is taking care of getting me the replacements for free but I had heard this part could fail and I should have been proactive… Shit happens… Get with APR and get the correct part before failure… Looks like I’m slumming and driving the RS for a few days ;D

Few questions for the group… Car still had half the reservoir filled and the reservoir for the cps was full… Only drove maybe 5 miles until I got home from the bus stop and I’m positive it happened on the way home because I didn’t see puddles at the bus stop or in my garage… Temp never went above normal and I never got into boost, I assume everything should be fine? Also, I’d like to fix myself but curious on how I go about bleeding the system? I remember someone mentioning a tool can anyone point me to what I need to buy?


http://i1012.photobucket.com/albums/af247/concordslim/imagejpg3_zps00df1429.jpg

#2

I think you’re fine as far as any potential damage. There are 3 ways to fill the coolant that I am aware of.

  1. The old fashioned way. Add coolant with bleed valves open. Once full and all the air appears to be out, close the bleed valves, get the car up to temp, and burp the remaining air out (remove overflow cap, add coolant as needed). You’ll likely have to do this a several times.

  2. Use a tool like what was mentioned. This pressurized the system, forces the air out, and seals it when you are adding coolant. This requires an air compressor.

Schwaben from ECS:
http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B8_S4-Quattro-3.0T/Engine/Cooling/Tools/ES2712734/

Airlift off Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/550500-AirLift-Economy-Cooling-Refiller/dp/B000IHK1VI/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1409182174&sr=1-2&keywords=airlift+coolant
or
http://www.amazon.com/UView-550000-Airlift-Cooling-Checker/dp/B0002SRH5G/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1409182150&sr=1-1&keywords=airlift+coolant

You’ll also need some G12++ or G13 coolant. Audi brand in one gallon. Should be plenty. NA uses 50/50 mix with distilled water or similar. Canada uses 60/40 mix (60% coolant):
ECS: http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B8_S4-Quattro-3.0T/Engine/Cooling/Coolant/ES2603000/
Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Audi-G013A8J1G-Radiator-Anti-Freeze/dp/B00BYV3TPC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409182081&sr=8-1&keywords=audi+g13

Obviously dealers use a system similar to #2 that fully removes and pressurizes the system, but much fancier and you’ll be paying for it…

#3

The leak that you have is on the engine side, that’s why that res is low and the cps one is fine. I would try and swap the cap over as quick as you can. If your res runs dry that is when you will get air in the system. You shouldn’t have to bleed anything.

#4

http://www.amazon.com/UView-550000-Airlift-Cooling-Checker/dp/B0002SRH5G

I’ve been using this one for over 10 years as a tech, works perfect and good quality.

It creates a vacuum in the entire system using shop air, so you around need at least a small household garage style compressor. Then you swap the end hose, keeping the vacuum as you do, simply insert the hose in the coolant bottle and open it up. It uses the vacuum to fill the entire system, air pocket free.

Its great to have at home and you can use it on any car.

Sorry to hear this happened Ron, I’m sure it’s a quick fix.

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#5

Sorry to hear Ron!

I saw the reports of this on the APR system and took measures regardless if AWE has a better part or not. Had my tech use a silicone cap I believe, don’t quote me.

#6

If you clamp the hose coming from the reservoir, you can remove and replace the cap with minimal coolant loss.

The cap that came with my AWE ColdFront showed surface cracks after a few months. No leaks, but AWE sent me a new cap with no questions. I swapped it for a silicone cap anyway.

#7

Thanks everyone… APR is going to send me everything overnight today so I’ll evaluate the new cap and if I think it is going to be an issue I’ll find something better… Just glad no damage other than a little mess to cleanup and cap to replace… Also, glad I was close to home otherwise it would suck to get stranded over this…

I am going to try and fill w/o bleeding the system as Kris made an excellent point that since the reservoir never went dry the system probably doesn’t have air in it… Thanks again bud!

Everyone knows I’m an APR fanboy but IMO since they know this is a issue waiting to happen they should query their sales database and find everyone who bought the system prior to their improvement and proactively send them a cap and tell them to replace… Not my call but that is what I would do if it was…

#8

I’ve had to replace that cap twice. The last time it almost drained the overflow reservoir completely. I topped it off when I got home, it didn’t drain much over night, and I quickly replaced it in the parking lot of a radiator shop with one I fished out of their box of used coolant line caps. I now keep two spares in the glove box and use a hose clamp so I can swap it with a screw driver in a pinch. Kris gave good advice. Be quick and you won’t even lose half a cup of fluid when swapping.

-Skid

#9

Mine failed last night. :frowning:

#10

Ryan, Just PMed you… I’ll be honest I am not happy how it all played out… APR did get me a new cap but I wasn’t too happy with it so I sourced my own… They also didn’t include a clamp nor coolant… Fortunately, my dealer was kind enough to hook me up with everything I needed… I gave more details in my PM…

#11

why not post what you used so other guys can pre-emptively strike and replace it?

#12

You can use a samco 16mm cap. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Samco-Silicone-Blanking-Cap-Maximum-Hose-Temperature-180-Degrees-C-356F-/141165316252?pt=UK_Car_Parts_Vehicles_Automobila_ET&var=&hash=item20de1bc89c

Based on what AMS has found regarding divorcing the coolant, it might be best to just revert back to stock and remove the reservoir.

#13

Saki, I went to the dealer and they hooked me up with a new cap, clamp and coolant… Not sure what brand it is… The walls were thicker and it was a little longer and the top/cap portion seemed thicker… I’ll be honest I didn’t get out calipers and measure… You could visually tell that it was a better cap…

Kris, Yeah I wanted to get it done otherwise I would have went that route and I kept the apr one in the trunk for future use if needed… FYI… pretty sure it was 13mm not 16mm… Again, appreciate all your help via email…

Edit: ID measurement by the way