Got a box of goodies in over the weekend.

B6/7 S4/RS4
#1

Big thanks for Detailer’s Domain for all this stuff. Unfortunately the weather didn’t allow me a chance to use everything. I ended up just doing a quick wash with the foamer and Iron Cut, and then cleaned up the interior with the Sonax products and new microfibers. I am very pleased with everything I have used so far.

http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z406/brealz86/_DSC2939.jpg

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The List:
Gilmour Foamaster II
Optimum Car Wash
Iron Cut
Uber Blue Clay Bar
Porter Cable 7424XP Orbital Polisher
Optimum Compound II
Optimum Final Polish
Adam’s Brilliant Glaze
Adam’s Machine Superwax
Sonax Dashboard Cleaner
Sonax Leather Foam
Uber Quick Detail Microfiber Towel (OMG these are soft!)
Uber Microfiber Towel
Uber Microfiber Applicator Pad

Now some picture whoring:

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Some pictures with my friends 1 series:

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Some HDR shots:

http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z406/brealz86/_DSC3285_x.jpg

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And I know I’ll probably get some shit for this. I get absolutely filthy at work sometimes and that eventually makes it’s way to my seat. I didn’t take any before pictures, but you can tell how dirty the seat was. I used some Dawn and a brush to loosen up the dirt. It worked so well that I even managed to strip some of the paint off the bolster. :-\

http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z406/brealz86/_DSC2979.jpg

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I am planning on doing a full detail this weekend as long as weather permits. More pictures to come then.

#2

man i was really trying to figure out what the fuck was going on with that ‘before’ seat pic. I thought…is that an entire alcantara grey Recaro seat?

Then I realised it was just manky!

#3

nice man…just FYI for people who are interested in detailing and want a foam gun. Home Depot sells an amazing Foamblaster for pressure washers http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202184733/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=foam+blaster&storeId=10051 it works very well for $20.

I also got the Meguiars DA polisher for christmas and love it!!

Excellent photos too man!!

#4

Very nice. Make sure you condition those seats after using Dawn on them. That dawn probably stripped every last bit of oil out of those seats so they’re going to dry and crack if you don’t slather them with conditioner soon. Use Leathermasters stuff. LeatherMasters Strong had no problem lifting some nasty dirt out of some A8 seats I did last year. Then follow up with Vital, or whatever they call their current conditioner. Also, properly conditioned seats won’t hold dirt as well, so they clean up much much easier. A weekly wipe with a wet MF is all you need.

Another thing - order about 9 more yellow pads. Cleaning that one lonely pad every half panel will get old very fast. I cleaned all 10 of my yellow pads probably 3 times each when I corrected my car. It takes 2-4 passes with M105 which is very aggressive to get full correction. I’d imagine more with the Adam’s stuff.

This goes for everyone…pick up one of these for drying your car: http://www.amazon.com/Weed-Eater-WEB160-Electric-Blower/dp/B000BOAY2Y/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1334632021&sr=1-5
I use mine every time I wash the car fir two reasons. The main reason is to minimize contact with the paint to reduce the chance for new swirls. The other is to get all of the water out of the cracks so the wind doesn’t FUBAR your fresh wash. Then I touchup with the Chemical Guy’s waffle MF, and then use regular MF’s to dry the jambs.

This seems like a good time to whore some fresh clean DG magic:

http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x59/joec1992/IMG_7091.jpg

#5

I definitely need to do that for next time. I didn’t do a whole lot of cutting this time. Just wanted to test out all the new stuff.

So it took me two weeks, but I was finally able to try out my new detailing products.

Last Weekend:

Foam wash with Megs Gold Class
Iron Cut wheels
Uber Clay bar
Wash with Optimum
Optimum Compound with PC
Optimum Polish with PC
Adam’s Machine Super Sealant
Uber Quick Detail towels used on exterior
Sonax Dashboard Cleaner
Sonax Leather Foam
Uber Microfibers used on interior

Like I said earlier, the foam gun is great and Iron Cut works well. The Uber clay bar did its job well removing contamination and some overspray from the paint and glass and left a very smooth finish. They give you a huge block of it too. I don’t see myself using all of this in the next 5 years. I was very happy with the Optimum soap as well. With only 1 oz of soap, an incredible amount of suds were made and the soap cleaned up well. It also smells like blueberries. I didn’t spend a whole lot of time on the Optimum compound and polish. They did clean up
some scratches and most swirl marks. However, the next time I do this I’ll probably start with the 3M heavy cut I have or order some M105. The last thing I did was put on a coat of Adam’s sealant. This sealant/wax is amazing. They say to let it sit for 12-24 hours before putting any(more) product on top of it. This is definitely recommended as I had to wipe down the car a couple of times due to some hazing. The finish is so smooth and leaves a near wax look/depth. After 5 days, 2 with heavy rain, and 300 miles, the finish was surprisingly still there. Water beading was great and with very little water spots. I probably could have just put another coat of this on and a coat of glaze and called it after that.

I was very pleased with the Sonax interior cleaners. Both of them cleaned well and left a smooth matte finish with a clean scent. The Uber quick detail microfiber towels are amazing and I will definitely be ordering more of them.

Unfortunately, no pictures for all of that.

This Weekend:

Iron Cut wheels
Optimum Wash
Adam’s Brilliant Glaze with PC
Chemical Brother’s 5050 by hand
DoDo Juice Tyromania

I woke up early this morning with nothing to do. Decided to jump right back into detailing the rest of my car. I started off with an iron cut and wash. First off the water beaded up so well from the sealant last weekend and made the wash go very quickly and painlessly. And again the soap smells so good haha. Drying off the car with an Absorber was noticeably easier. Adam’s glaze went on and came off super easy. It put a nice depth and gloss and makes the metallic pop. Just gotta make sure to keep shaking the bottle as the liquids separate easily. The last product I put on the paint was some Chemical Brother’s 5050 paste wax. I made sure to put it on super thin, but worked it in well. Removal was easy. Now this is the first time I’ve used both a glaze and a wax, but I really didn’t notice a big difference after putting the 5050 wax on. I’m not sure how noticeable it should be though, or if it’s mainly there to help preserve the glaze a bit longer. I’m thinking about picking up Adam’s Buttery and/or Americana wax for next time.

The last thing I did to the car today was dress the tires with Dodo Juice. I’ve always used some form of Megs gloss tire coating. I prefer to have some gloss/shine on the tires. The Tyromania is my roomates and I decided to try it out knowing that it will leave a matte finish. As I put it on the dressing left a nice clean solid matte black looking coat. But as it dried, the tires just ended up looking the same as before I put the product on. Also any time I touched a tire my fingers picked up some of the dressing. I’m not sure if I just put too much on or what. I’ll be looking for a new tire product for next time as well.

Some during/after pics…

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#6

Breal - curious what you do for glass care? I want to clay-bar and fully refinish my Nogaro to get some shine back this summer, but I seem to have issues getting and keeping the glass clean and streak free. I like to use Rain-X so I don’t have to use wipers as much, but that seems to just make the streaks and stuff worse.

Outstanding results, any recommendations for a good buffing tool? I used to use a low speed on a drill when I was in high school, but I’d be afraid of burning clearcoat on the S.

#7

daytona and dolphin look amazing after a detail

#8

I’ve never had problem streaking with my glass, I would suggest buying some glass purposed microfiber towels though, they are made to avoid streaking and work very well. I typically just wash with ONR and rarely go over it with anything else as it’s usually good after that. You can wax/seal your glass as well which really helps to avoid buildup and makes washing next time much easier.

A good cheap buffer is the griots garage 6" random orbital, it has a higher amp motor for better low-speed power than the PC, and the handle design is really nice, it’s about as cheap as you can get too.

Don’t worry about burning the clearcoat on the S4, very very tough to do with a random orbital buffer, and the clearcoat is very strong on the S4, you guys have it very easy with your metallic paints, but try polishing black where you can see every blemish with ease. It took me 20+ hours of m105 and menzerna 4000 to get mine where I wanted it half a year ago and I really had to work it hard.

#9

I used the clay bar on all the glass as well. That will get it nice and clean to begin with. Then if I need to I’ll use some detail/spray wax on them with a clean microfiber. I generally just make sure I wash the windows well and rinse and dry them first to avoid the water spots, etc. On the inside I generally use Stoners.

I’ll agree with nicotino about the Griot’s orbital. I remember seeing it on sale somewhere recently. I’ll also agree that our paint/clear is really hard. Just take your time and do multiple passes.

#10

Sweet, thanks for the tips. I guess proper wax > rainx any day. Didn’t realize you could clay glass!

I have a rock chip so I’ll get a new windshield thru insurance to use as a clean slate, but I’ve always used paper instead of microfibre on glass. Guess I should try switching it up.

Thanks again.

#11

I hate cleaning interior glass. Worst job ever.