Has anyone resprayed their bumper before? Question inside

Does it chip easily? I hear conflicting things. So instead, I’d like to hear from people who have done this.
I’m considering going with the RS4 front end and will make use of the extra front airflow to duct air into the front wheel wells (for brakes). However, the bumper is unpainted and I’m worried that it’ll chip to oblivion 'cause “nothing is as good as OEM paint”. Though of course, I know nothing about paint, so I do not know the validity of that statement.

http://www.bimmerboost.com/images/imported/2012/02/RS4Ab2-1.jpg
these things!

I had my front end replaced from a collision early on. I put an xpel on the front, so since, only the bra has gotten rock chips. I think any bumper will chip due to rocks, OEM or not.

The thing I would be concerned about is your car will look strange with the low hanging bumper and stock fenders. Then if you do fenders, your rockers will look weird…lol…

Also, the issue with respraying will be that the paint doesn’t match. I don’t know how hard it is to match your sepang blue, but a recent experience with our GTI leads me to believe it will be hard. Painting onto the plastic can be different than the other panels (people will claim bumpers always look off, even from the factory). So then, you’ll probably need some overspray onto the fenders/hood to make it blend properly. Which kind of sucks, because to do it properly, they need to sand off the OEM paint. And removing OEM paint is one of those things you don’t want to do unless really necessary.

Its going to come down to the quality of paint and how well the shop prepped the bumper and also the bumper material. If the bumper was say fiberglass, paint chips away at it like nothing.

I had my front bumper re-sprayed since the wife decided to scrape it along the house. I couldnt tell when they were done, have over 30k on the bumper now and looks like normal rock chipping, nothing that looks like it was pronounced cause of the respray.

This. Bumper material, prep, and paint quality will determine how it turns out. I wouldn’t do the bumper unless it was high quality Poly. Fiberglass sucks for chips and usually fitment. The bumper material will determine the type of prep work, how much flex agent is needed, etc. A good bumper painted by a shop that knows what they are doing should be OEM quality or better. As Drob pointed out, paint match may be your biggest issue. Metallic paints can be tough to match just because of the way the paint goes on.

it’s true that oem painting processes are lightyears better than what a body shop can do, but I think if you pay up you can get excellent work done. Otherwise, every car that was ever in a fender bender would be a disaster.

You sure you want to throw the front bumper of an RS4 on your S4?

Thanks for all the input guys, much appreciated!

FWIW the bumper is poly–not fiber glass. It’s these ones off ebay for 899:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/171920497416?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTIwMFgxMjAw/z/o5gAAOSwVL1WBYwb/$_57.JPG

It’s intended to work with stock fenders (read: it isn’t wide body). It’s just a replica of the RS4 bumper made to work on a narrow body. The other thing too is…i scuffed up my front bumper :frowning: :frowning: :frowning: I need to paint anyways. This was kinda the final nail in the coffin and I just figured I may as well do this too then!

Regarding chipping - maybe chipping is the wrong word. Flaking is perhaps what I’m interested about, but it doesn’t sound like anyone has had issues with that sort of thing. BTW Drob - how much was xpel for the bumper? Sanding off OE paint to blend doesnt sound like fun to me. Ideally I’d just paint the bumper…but if it wont really match then…sigh.

As for flaking, I’m referring to this:
http://onsiterecon.com/sites/default/files/styles/large/public/images/DSC_0006.JPG

Not really a concern if it’s done properly, right, right?

Trying to look through my old email, but I can’t find the quote. Just ping some local shops. I’m guessing something on the order of 300-500 for bumper only. The bumper is hard due to all the trim pieces/weird angles.

I’ve seen several cars with that bumper now. It seems to fit pretty good overall, and Poly is definitely the way to go. The only area to pay attention to is the bottom where it meets the belly pan. I’ve seen a few that looked like it didn’t fit completely right. I have a feeling the installer just didn’t spend the time to get it completely right. Just know that any aftermarket part like that is not going to fit 100% perfect. The better, and more experienced the shop is with aftermarket parts, the better the end results will be.

Flaking won’t be an issue if it’s painted correctly. There are two major causes. Improper prep that causes the primer not to fully adhere (the surface needs to be sanded down and completely clean) will cause the large flakes like what you show above. If they do a bad job on the paint and clear or don’t use enough flex agent, it can allow moisture under the paint when you get a chip, and the moisture will lead to peeling. All of the above will be avoided if you use a decent shop.

You also don’t want to put the protection film on right away. The paint needs to fully cure before you do so. Naturally, that can take something like 30-60 days. Longer in the winter in some cases… Some shops can accelerate that process by baking or curing the paint after they are done.

Really good info.
Appreciate it. Now knowing the amount of prep work involved, finding a really spot on body shop is key.
Going to do some research on that locally. Thanks for the help, guys!

The only scary thing about this replica bumper is what if any 1 of those grilles crack from a stone or something? Not sure that finding small part replacements are even possible. Being a track car where tailing is a normal thing…my car gets hit with a lot of rubber. Would be sad if those grilles broke. Decisions decisions.

Another choice would be the s-line competition bumper. Anyway! Thanks for all the tips guys :slight_smile:

just cause i have access to a carfax acct, the car above :slight_smile:

06/05/2008 Virginia
Damage Report Accident reported
Involving left front impact
with another motor vehicle
Airbags did not deploy
08/13/2008 Virginia
Motor Vehicle Dept.
Virginia Beach, VA Registration issued or renewed
Loan or lien reported
10/26/2010 Virginia
Motor Vehicle Dept.
Virginia Beach, VA Registration issued or renewed
06/29/2012 North Carolina
Damage Report Accident reported
Involving right front impact
It hit an animal
Minor right front damage reported

That would be cool. I’d like to see that. It’s kinda stupid they didn’t offer that on the S4. Probably a lot pricier on the front end, but you’d also probably save some on the easier install. And you could get replacement parts.

That’s pretty funny. Can you look it up by license plate?

I had my front end resprayed earlier this year. Couple things to consider.

  1. Everyone here hit the nail on the head with prep work. The shop i went to DID not do good prep work and i was getting small chips almost instantly. Luckily i had the car clear bra’d shortly after. But if they dont let the paint cure a certain way your car will look like shit with rock chips. Friend of mine went to the same place i did and he didnt get clear bra. Lets just say i wouldve been back in that body shop and giving them hell if my car looked like his.

  2. You will need to blend your front end with the bumper if you want it to look good. I had my bumper, hood and front panels blended and it all looks great. You cant even tell i had a respray. (again i wrapped my entire front end in xpel ultimate though).

Do you homework if your going to do this. I went to a shop that a buddy of mine works at (he works on the mechanical side not the body side) and i shouldve paid more and went to a better shop. Luckily i only drove about 50 miles on it before i had it clear bra’d but if i had driven alot that month, my front end wouldve looked like shit. Expect to pay a good amount for good work!

yea carfax changed how they run reports, its all done by plate now, not vin.