Part Numbers are 079109204L & 079109210L, I will see if they have a manufacturing date on them tomorrow.
The defective part is just the actuator/solenoid part of the unit.
L in the part number is the modification code. Check to see if they ones off your car were y he same code.
My old units have “No Letter” after the part numbers.
This is one of my old units, can’t remember is this is the left hand side or right hand side, but as you can see it’s the same part number without the letter at the end.
Remember though, it’s not the whole unit that’s at fault, just the actuator/solenoid part (The bit that the cable comes out of).
That is the original revision. There have been several since the original revision D then H then J and now L.
I see you didn’t remember what side the adjusters came off of. And it would make sense in my write up here you can tell your parts don’t follow the normal pattern
http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=2726.msg76722#msg76722
Here’s all the markings off one of the new units, not sure if you can work out a batch number or manufacture date from any of these.
The actuator/solenoid part of the unit doesn’t appear to have any marking on it, so I’m guessing it’s considered all one part.
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b118/jimgreen72/IMG_21251_zps38531f9a.jpg
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b118/jimgreen72/IMG_21211_zpsc5bf33f9.jpg
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b118/jimgreen72/IMG_21301_zps38177e8c.jpg
From what I found its all considered one part. Let us know if the dealer returns that part for you or not.
Dealer has supplied two new complete units.
We have removed and tested both of the actuators/solenoids and they are working correctly. We have oiled them up and are rebuilding at the moment.
Keeping my fingers crossed.
When you tested your new units how did they compair to the old units. Did you notice less play did anything standout that would make you think the old units had considerible ware. Obviously it makes better sense to put in New units over old ones. Just wondering what kind of ware you saw that might standout to you.
Sheesh two bad brand new units. What are the odds.
Hi Justin
Yes we did compare them.
Piston travel within the Solenoid is identical, didn’t measure what the travel was, but was the same.
New replacement units and old units both operated at the same speed, so I’m happy that they are good units… Happy enough to fit them instead of my old units which I think are still working ok. Once I’m up and running and done a few miles to ensure that there are no other issues and feel confident enough to take the old units apart then I’ll have a good luck at them.
I have all of the old components and will post them up and show where the majority of the wear occurs on them. It’s interesting… Obviously the famous guide that cracks is the main culprit, and it was the same on mine.
What I think most don’t know is you can have a cracked guide and not be experiencing chain rattle.
Yep, if the rest of the guides & tensioners are good, then that main one that always cracks isn’t noticed… Until is starts breaking up.
Then it’s too late and your into possible engine damage.
;D ;D ;D Back on the road again… Isn’t there a song called that.
Well… we finished the job this morning just before mid day, cleared all the previous codes that had caused us to half remove the engine again, took if for a drive (About ten miles) ran perfectly, really strong on torque and power.
So, I took it home, gave it a really quick wash and then went for a long drive, steady for about the first ten miles and then gave it a little more and gradually started to increase the rpm further up the range.
Suddenly when accelerating hard in third gear I felt the engine flutter and hesitate, and a loss of power. So I slowed down a little and pulled into a service station, got out my little VAGSCANNER and checked if I had any fault codes… Sure Enough : 16405 bank 2 camshaft a (intake) p0021-002 retard setpoint not reached (over advanced) mil.
F-ck…Sh-t… and a lot worse… So I cleared the code and started on a very disappointing drive home, BUT suddenly after driving for about five minutes and deliberately driving on and off the throttle, full power returned and the responded perfectly to the throttle. So I decided not to go home but continued on my driver for another hour in all types of roads and traffic, clocking up over 50 miles… Without any further problems. Arrived home, checked everything physically, ran another scan, NO Fault codes at all. Went for another thirty minute drive, no problems at all.
Oh I’m hoping whatever it is has sorted it’s self out.
I did wonder if the pistons in the actuator/solenoid could be a little tight, being brand new and maybe now they’re bedding in.
I’m certainly hoping so.
Just going to let the car cool down so I can start it from cold and go for another run tonight.
So, for the last sixty miles she’s running perfect, after that one hiccup… Keeping my fingers crossed and it is so nice to have no timing chain rattle on cold or warm start up.
Here’s a few pics of today, back on the road at long last. Haven’t really given it a good clean yet, but what the hell.
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b118/jimgreen72/IMG_22291_zps26d5efce.jpg
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b118/jimgreen72/IMG_22301_zps4abbfb38.jpg
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b118/jimgreen72/IMG_22261_zps237552d1.jpg
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b118/jimgreen72/IMG_22341_zps845e57cc.jpg
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b118/jimgreen72/IMG_22301_zpsd8c6abe6.jpg
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b118/jimgreen72/IMG_22281_zps50a88eea.jpg
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b118/jimgreen72/IMG_22231_zps29b9027c.jpg
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b118/jimgreen72/IMG_22251_zps41b33617.jpg
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b118/jimgreen72/IMG_22221_zps4e22a8dc.jpg
I’ll keep you informed…
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D Anther Drive… Still running perfectly and no fault codes. ;D ;D ;D
Congrats it’s a great thing to go threw all that. Do you have a jhm tune…If you do it triggers a code sooner then stock would to keep you safe from chain disaster. Expect to see that maybe one more time. For whatever reason that L version of the adjusters are very tight.
The car is sooo good looking it makes it all worth it.
Thanks Justin
I believe that could well have been the issue (Piston in the solenoid/actuator) may be a little tight, now with almost a hundred miles of running the fault hasn’t come back again.
I will be emailing Jake at JHM on Monday to get the download.
Unfortunately I only have a Window’s 8 laptop, but Jake has told me that it has worked ok for others, and if I do have an issue, it will be downloading the file into my computer, not when I download it into the car.
I’m going for the 93, as I can always get high octane here in England.
Oh and many thanks for taking an interest in the job and giving advice, it’s nice to know that someone who know’s more than you is watching… LOL.
JHM Tune (93) is ordered… 
Still running fine… This part of the story is now complete.
Thread now moved on to here… http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=2745.0
It’s great to see a happy ending. Funny how AZ had nobody over there that was of any help. It’s nice to see more and more people are getting help here and helping others with issues find the help here.
Yep… I’ll be staying here and hoping to help/contribute
Many Thanks
Jim