Help - Fault Codes

B6/7 S4/RS4
#21

I was wondering if you would consider this as an option. If you have proven, properly functioning actuators in your possession why not use them again? While I understand the b e n e f i t of refreshing items while the car is apart, if these work and haven’t shown any signs of failure, age, damage potential for failure - use them again. Wait for Justin to chime in on this since he has the experience and knowledge - maybe there is some inherent issue with these actuators once removed or at a certain mileage they start to fail. I don’t know because I don’t have the knowledge or experience with these parts on this engine.

Either way, nice to have you here and I think you now can confirm you’ve arrived at the proper forum for this type of tech discussion.

#22

NY07RS4 : I have to agree this is certainly the more technical Audi enthusiast site and Justin certainly seems to know these cars well.

I’m a little old school and while totally competent with the mechanics of engines, get a little lost when there’s so many electrical and ECU controlled components and reading and interpreting VAGCOM Logs leaves me lacking.

Totally agree with your suggestion which is something I’m still considering. I just don’t know if the actuator part of the unit are prone to wear or failure at a certain age/mileage. I know the only moving part is the piston in the centre of the unit which moves basically in two directions to allow or stop oil flow, so it’s a well lubricated part so would expect wear of the piston or the actuator cylinder to be minimal, but now sure how reliable the electronics of the actuator are.

I really don’t want to do this job again… EVER, hence my replacing every single component and the only way to change the actuator alone, is to remove the back of the engine which is a huge job even thought it can be done with the engine in situ, I wouldn’t want to do it again.

BUT… if it is a bad batch and the replacements have the same problem, then the old ones WILL be going back in.

#23

Jim,

The actuators you tested, do you have the full part number. Do you know if they are re-manufactured? JHM was starting to see issues with the timing kits and parts from Audi. JHM did a deep investigation and they built a rebuild kit for your actuator. Let me see if I can get more information to you.

#24

Jim,

Did you use new mechanical adjusters or did you get new ones? (sorry if I missed that answer in your thread).

If you are using your old ones, I would highly recommend going with our repair kit:http://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalog/jhm-mechanical-adjuster-repair-kit-pair-for-b6-b7-s4-c5-allroad-42l-p-2314.html

So you don’t have to do this job again in the future.

Regards,

Jake

#25

I wouldn’t mess with the new adjusters. See if you can return them. The solenoid valve is very simple. If you try to service your new adjusters you might find out why it’s binding up. But you won’t be able to return them and that’s an expensive part to have as a paperweight. I would service your old adjusters and inspect the solenoid just to make sure there is no abnormal ware.

#26

Hi Jake - I had new mechanical adjusters and new electronic cam control units… Every part is new Jake, I used exactly the parts as in your Full + OEM Kit.

#27

Thanks Justin & Jake

If I can get them exchanged under warranty (They’re obviously not working correctly) then I will give it a couple of days for Audi to get two new units to me. If they start arguing to toss (It’s hard to see how they can…), then I will put my old solenoids (Actuators) into the new control units… and just call it a day. I don’t want to put my Tech to any more hassle, he’s been great but this is now starting to impact on his work as he’s left other cars to work on mine and I need a break too as I should have been on vacation now… Can’t see Audi compensating that… LOL.

#28

FORGOT TO ANSWER ONE OF THE QUESTIONS - Yes, all of the parts are genuine Audi and brand new units, not rebuilt.

I’ll see if there’s a “Manufacturing Date” on the units and put the details up tomorrow, as I guess it’s possible there’s a dodgy batch.

#29

Part Numbers are 079109204L & 079109210L, I will see if they have a manufacturing date on them tomorrow.

The defective part is just the actuator/solenoid part of the unit.

#30

L in the part number is the modification code. Check to see if they ones off your car were y he same code.

#31

My old units have “No Letter” after the part numbers.

#32

This is one of my old units, can’t remember is this is the left hand side or right hand side, but as you can see it’s the same part number without the letter at the end.


http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b118/jimgreen72/d33eb36f-c3a1-477d-974f-1b5404b4d834_zpsb6c2aaba.jpg

Remember though, it’s not the whole unit that’s at fault, just the actuator/solenoid part (The bit that the cable comes out of).

#33

That is the original revision. There have been several since the original revision D then H then J and now L.

I see you didn’t remember what side the adjusters came off of. And it would make sense in my write up here you can tell your parts don’t follow the normal pattern

http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=2726.msg76722#msg76722

#34

Here’s all the markings off one of the new units, not sure if you can work out a batch number or manufacture date from any of these.

The actuator/solenoid part of the unit doesn’t appear to have any marking on it, so I’m guessing it’s considered all one part.


http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b118/jimgreen72/IMG_21251_zps38531f9a.jpg


http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b118/jimgreen72/IMG_21211_zpsc5bf33f9.jpg


http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b118/jimgreen72/IMG_21301_zps38177e8c.jpg

#35

From what I found its all considered one part. Let us know if the dealer returns that part for you or not.

#36

Dealer has supplied two new complete units.

We have removed and tested both of the actuators/solenoids and they are working correctly. We have oiled them up and are rebuilding at the moment.

Keeping my fingers crossed.

#37

When you tested your new units how did they compair to the old units. Did you notice less play did anything standout that would make you think the old units had considerible ware. Obviously it makes better sense to put in New units over old ones. Just wondering what kind of ware you saw that might standout to you.

Sheesh two bad brand new units. What are the odds.

#38

Hi Justin

Yes we did compare them.

Piston travel within the Solenoid is identical, didn’t measure what the travel was, but was the same.

New replacement units and old units both operated at the same speed, so I’m happy that they are good units… Happy enough to fit them instead of my old units which I think are still working ok. Once I’m up and running and done a few miles to ensure that there are no other issues and feel confident enough to take the old units apart then I’ll have a good luck at them.

I have all of the old components and will post them up and show where the majority of the wear occurs on them. It’s interesting… Obviously the famous guide that cracks is the main culprit, and it was the same on mine.

#39

What I think most don’t know is you can have a cracked guide and not be experiencing chain rattle.

#40

Yep, if the rest of the guides & tensioners are good, then that main one that always cracks isn’t noticed… Until is starts breaking up.

Then it’s too late and your into possible engine damage.