Help removing a vacuum line connector (for carbon clean)

B6/7 S4/RS4
#1

I posted this on another forum as well…looking for help so I can continue in pulling the intake manifold off.

Guys, stuck on trying to get that pesky sideways connector that sits under the carbon fiber cover near the front of the engine. The connector is near the radiator fan.

SiverRs4’s directions recommend using a flattened stiff wire, but to be honest, I am not sure still how to disengage the connector. Of course, there was a little tab on the top (facing me) the snapped off when I poked at it, but no big deal as it doesn’t appear to do anything. I have tried putting an offset (right angle) screwdriver in there plus a flattened coat hanger piece.

Is that side part what I should be going for? Do I push in (towards the engine)? Any tips here? Picture included. The picture appears flipped so it looking from on top of the engine towards the front of the car (eg, top of the picture is close to the radiator fan.

http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/9305/rs4connector.jpg

#2

so it looks like you need to push on the tab that is on the vertical facing side (the piece of plastic on the north side), while pushing the whole connector in towards whatever its attached to. Its a lever, pushing down on the tab will lift the lever and release the connector.

#3

Thanks – after playing with it and looking at a spare manifold I have (duh) i was able to figure out how to get that connector off.

So, now I have progressed but have hit another stumbling point. There is a bolt I need to remove but there isn’t enough clearance to get in there. I have tried a small ratcheting tool from Sears that others have recommended, but still not enough clearance. This is frustrating. Any ideas, particularly for those that have done this?

I have already remove a couple of bolts on the air intake tubes and one (I cant get to the other) on the cyclonic separator. Basically, the mounting surface of the separator is blocking my access…cant get even the small tool in there, let alone a more traditional socket.

http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/5994/boltt.jpg

#4

so the bolt is aligned east-west right? Any idea on the head of the bolt, hex/torx/allen? It looks like a job for an L-wrench, I have a set of allen and torx L-wrenches for stuff like that. If its a hex head go for the open end of a box wrench.

If the short leg of the l wrench is too long, cut it off (harbor freight ftw) and get a small open end wrench on it

#5

It is east-west and a T30.

The author of the instructions I am using recommended removing the bottom bolt on the cyclone separator…which will be a nightmare to get at but I guess I’ll try. I am also going to swing by the hardware store and see about these L wrenches. Still don’t think there will be enough clearance but will check it out.

#6

Okay, turns out I had to remove one air line to get myself enough space to remove another bolt that then allowed access to the bolt in question. It will all make sense when I get around to assembling a DIY. This is all assuming I ever get the car running again!

Now I am ready to start scrubbing. I am nervous about screwing up things on the reinstall, but at least i have taken a lot of pictures that I can refer to.

I did lose a T30 socket somewhere in my engine bay…even with the intake mani out I can’t find it. I guess I should look harder but that really annoys me.

http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/4648/readymw.jpg

http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/367/gaskets.jpg

http://img684.imageshack.us/img684/8864/carbons.jpg

#7

Good job man, making progress. I’ve found using magnetized tools helps in those hard to reach areas. In addition, I have all sorts of extension magnet tools in different sizes, mirrors that turn on every axis and a bore scope with an led lighted tip. All of these tools have saved me massive headaches when I’ve dropped a screw/nut/washer etc into the engine bay.

One of my tiny magnets is so strong that I often move it around blindly in the crevises and it “finds” the loose part and brings it back to me. Life saver.

#8

Progress indeed! Still a long ways to go but the cleaning itself has been nowhere near as bad for me as I was expecting. Fume free Easy Off, a brass brush, the wire tie tool, and a LOT of napkins and my handy hemostat. Oh, and a pick or two for the corners.

I am still going to take my time with this and finish over the next few days. Probably won’t reinstall the manifold until this weekend.

http://img851.imageshack.us/img851/1720/cleanx.jpg

#9

rare earth magnet? They’re insane.

#10

Wow you really got those clean. Make sure you turn the motor over to close the valves of the ones that are open before you start spraying stuff in there. Obvious probably

#11

he’s already done it looks like

#12

Yep, on the end of a thin but strong telescoping arm. Great life saving tool. I’ve dropped a ton of shit over the years. I’ve literally used the bore scope (flexible arm) to help me find lost parts then use the magnet to get them back. I also gave a flexible “claw” tool. I’d be done for without these tools.

#13

Yeah, I have finished 5 of the 8 ports. 3 have valves that are open to various degrees. I’ll tackle those in a day or two. Going to rock the car in 6th gear till they close up. I was going to remove the plugs in advance to reduce compression but forgot about them. Oh well.

#14

so which forum won the race from the op?

#15

Okay, so I am a bit helpless :stuck_out_tongue:

I have 3 ports left to clean, but the valves are not closed. So, I put the car into 6th gear and started rocking. Difficult and I couldn’t get the car to move a tremendous amount. And of course the valves didn’t move. So, I removed the plugs to reduce compression. Tried in reverse and was able to move the car a couple feet, but no valve movement. Maybe it didn’t engage? Put it back in 6th and started rocking again. Saw a little valve movement, but still a long ways to go until they close.

Gave up after 20 or 30 minutes and decided that I will try again tomorrow night after work. But, assuming I remain unsuccessful, I wanted to completely understand the whole “crank the ignition” technique. Fuel pump fuse is out, fuel lines are obviously disconnected, coil packs/plugs are disconnected. Do I just get in the car and crank? No need to worry about oil or coolant spewing from somewhere? Do I crank for a second or two, check the valve movement, and continue until they are in the right position?

Don’t know why rocking the car is such a PITA. When I’ve done valve adjustments on other cars (2500 - 2800 lb cars though), rocking them in 5th gear was pretty simple and made the valvetrain move pretty readily.

Also, for those that have done the “crank the ignition”, will I definitely get an error code that can be cleared with my ECUtool vag-com cable?

TIA for the help yet again! ;D

#16

can you turn the crank pulley?

I asked about this somewhere on this forum. It was answered, but I clean forget (pardon the pun)

here it is…

http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=172.0

#17

I don’t think it can be easily reached or turned with standard tools. But then again, I haven’t REALLY looked. Maybe tomorrow night.

#18

Audi or Schwaben or some other tool manufacturer has a tool (looks like a 2ft breaker bar with a funny looking stubby claw at the end) that you place in the center of the cp which makes it a lot easier to turn. There are a few different ones. Cranking the motor is your best bet if you don’t have this tool and the rocking in gear didn’t work.

#19

Okay, but still to confirm…I just hop in and crank the ignition? No other precautions necessary?

Again, fuel lines, fuel pump fuse, coolant return line, cyclone separator all disconnected. That means open lines that could spew the applicable fluids. Before doing it I want to make sure that I don’t create a potentially dangerous mess.

#20

You shouldn’t have any type of mess. The lines that are unplugged can be plugged or carefully crimped if you are worried. Cranking for 1 second at a time shouldn’t casue any issues.