Just wanted to comment on some very good lessons I learned throughout the last couple months trying to find the cause of the rough idle.
Don’t be a parts changer - This can be an effective method of fixing problems, but it can get expensive very quickly because you are essentially guessing. If I would have listened to someone who fixes cars professionally I would have bought a new intake manifold.
The pros can be wrong - The first time I took it into a very reputable shop they looked fuel trims and said it MUST be a vacuum leak. They looked for vacuum leaks with a smoke machine and found nothing. They still told me it MUST be a vacuum leak or that the car just wouldn’t idle properly without the manifold flaps. Most recently another tech at the same shop looked at my fuel trims and guessed that my intake manifold was bad… ???
Use data to make a diagnosis - I came to find out these techs were only looking at short term fuel trim. What they missed is that bank 1 was in a lean condition at load and calling for +6-8% fuel under load. This data eliminates the possibility of a vacuum leak if you pay attention to the LTFT @ idle, which was around -1%. A car with a vacuum leak is going to ADD fuel to compensate for the unmetered air entering the system at idle. My car was not adding fuel at idle.
So what components can we target with the data available? Since bank 1 is showing the lean condition, we look for only things that can cause a lean condition on that bank downstream of the throttle body:
high pressure fuel pump - we would get a code if pressure was low, but I still checked it and it was within a good range and matched bank 2.
oxygen sensors - I checked the voltage ranges on these and they seemed to be good
fuel injectors - This is the only component left in the chain that could cause a lean condition. Unfortunately it isn’t easy to test these while they are in the car.