very normal in that heat
what location?
do a 3rd gear pull
run WOT to redline from 1500 RPM 100% throttle
log 003 and 020
use turbo mode
we can compare it to other cars
Adjusting the sensors to read 99.6% didn’t help the problem, but it was an interesting exploration :). There has to be a reason MRC tuning locks the flap shafts in place after removing the flaps.
Definitely a lot less timing pull than mine in similar ambient temps. I really need to get a CC done. Would be good to get a full 3k - 8k pull to check acceleration times.
Phone them and ask them.
Got an oil analysis done since its been about 25k since the first analysis on an unknown oil/interval when I got the car. This was a 4000 mile interval on the fancy Liqui Moly 5w30 TOP TEC 420000000000000. I have switched to mobil 1 0w40 because Mericuh.
http://i.imgur.com/X0uOlQI.png
Blackstone’s comments:
“Only minor changes to wear showed up in the second sample from this engine. It looks like this
oil was run a little longer than the first, going by the mild increases in wear. Or, if this and the last oil were
run about the same miles, maybe the increases in wear are from harder use. Either way, we’re pleased to
report that all metals are still within the average range. The engine still looks good. No fuel dilution or
anti-freeze was found. Low silicon shows excellent air filtration. We like the looks of this Audi at 84,550
total miles. It’s showing no signs of slowing down.”
Got the reflash done today, looks like that took care of the SAI readiness.
I have moved past thinking there is a vacuum leak causing the rough idle. All tests and work done have indicated there isn’t a vacuum leak. So in my opinion it has to be something with ignition or fueling causing the fluctuating idle.
I will be checking the following items in order:
Replace coilpacks - The original coilpacks are still on the car so I have 8x revised coilpacks arriving tomorrow.
Inspect spark plugs - These were changed pretty recently so they should be okay.
Check torque on valve covers - Shop replaced the gaskets recently so just checking their work.
Inspect cylinders
Have fuel injectors cleaned/rebuilt - Carbon could be fouling up the injectors so I’m going to take the injectors to a local specialty shop.
Here’s a shot of a nardo gray r8 v10 plus at the shop today:
http://i.imgur.com/9Thwkqc.jpg
Jesus fucking christ i want my car to be this color.
Nardo is quite awesome, but I have a better one for you:
Its a good idea to check the usual suspects and the list you put up can lead to having issues with idle and cold start issues.
Got the 3r clutch/flywheel and solid linkages + bushing installed last week. Wow the car shifts so quickly and smoothly now. I can’t wait until the break-in period is done so I can really try it out. I’ve noticed very slight chatter at takeoff but it’s not a big deal.
Usually that chatter is from the PP getting a slow clamp. Try pulling the clutch out quicker and see if its still there. Are you new to the LW flywheel as well…
Had the following DTCs pop up on my car friday night:
Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S1
P2196 - 002 - Signal too High (Rich) - MIL ON
Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B2 S1
P2197 - 001 - Signal too Low (Lean)
What does this usually mean? Could the shop that did the clutch work have reconnected them improperly?
The chatter I’m getting is in first gear after I’ve fully released the clutch pedal.
I’m also noticing chatter in neutral at idle while the clutch pedal is released and it seems to be getting worse. Is this normal?
Weird one. Is there a lean and rich code as well?
Your codes could indicate exhaust leak. When the shop pulled the dps off they may not have got them seated back in properly. I know they can be a pain and leak if not paid a attention to. Also if they didn’t follow the instructions for the clutch install and loctite the pp bolts they could be backing out. I’d be asking them exactly how they installed it.
I made sure to indicate that JHM’s instructions are very important and they acknowledged that before and after the install.
The leak generally produces the lean one bank and rich the other though Badtoyz doesn’t it? That’s why I asked if the op had those codes.
No just the codes i listed showed up.
Looks like the O2 codes are probably going to be from cross-connected front sensors.
JHM said the rattle/chatter @ idle is normal for some cars.
that’s the other one…connecting B1 into B2 slot etc.
make a video of this flywheel chatter. Then I will make one of my stock RS4 and we can compare. I bet it’s similar.
I’ve driven JHM stage 3/4/1R/3R/5R cars, and it wasn’t much (if at all) different to stock unless i was parked at a drive through and the brick wall was reflecting the sound at me. Even then, it’s nominal.
The rattle/chatter that you hear were there is a barrier for the sound to reflect off of is normal. Its the sound of the gears etc. inside of the transmission rattling around and since you have a solid flywheel it becomes audible.