I like the German warnings. You can adjust that in VAGCOM.
Yeah I set it like that to code out the door chime 
setting the dash to German removes the chime… I didnt know that.
The clutch is not too hard. It is a lot of work but its mostly direct bolts. working on your back is always a bit more work. Its very possible. The biggest issue I have is with trying to get the slave back in. Its probably the biggest pain of alot of jobs on the car. Still the entire job is very doable
So I’m having a rough idle now. I removed the IM again and inspected every line/component in that area that would cause a vac leak, everything looked good. Airbox flap is functioning perfectly so the vac line up front is good. Sprayed carb cleaner around the IM and throttle body, nothing stood out. I’m about to clean the MAF sensor in case that got dirty.
What else do I need to check?
Idle fluctuates from 700-900rpm constantly after the car warms up.
Unplugging the MAF makes the idle fluctuation worse.
The car doesn’t seem down on power at all.
A few suspects:
The driver side SAI pipe behind the motor - I pried back the top part of the pipe to get clearance on a bolt. It may have detached the bottom of the pipe where it connects to the port on the back of the motor.
Vacuum lines @ airbox flap solenoid - Just ruled this out by disconnecting it and plugging the main vac line in the front part of the motor.
IM not seated correctly? Doubtful - I was very careful when seating the IM and all bolts went in easily.
PCV components and breather hoses were inspected.
Couple notes:
-I thought you removed the SAI? What components are still remaining on the car?
-If the SAI, Airbox flap, & IM flaps are removed, you should only need vacuum for the rear exhaust flaps…if those are gone too, then you shouldn’t need that vac line at all.
Basically, it sounds like there’s a vac leak somewhere.
SAI system is gone except for the pipes on the back of the motor. Capped them off with plates.
I still have the airbox flap so the vac line across the front of the motor is connected to the airbox flap solenoid and check valve under the IM.
I guess I should go ahead and make sure the rubber caps on the exhaust flap lines didn’t come off. Where do those lines begin btw?
I’m taking it to a shop with a smoke machine Monday if I haven’t figured it out by then.
komesh you may have seen these before but i thought i would post them anyway.
http://i1367.photobucket.com/albums/r794/sarrs4/ar/RS4_vacuum_zpsmelourcj.jpg
http://i1367.photobucket.com/albums/r794/sarrs4/ar/rear%20vacuum_zpsema7xds0.png
the vacuum line that feeds the exhaust valves starts at the vacuum reservoir/solenoid valve that lives behind the inner rear quater panel trim in your boot/trunk.
http://i1367.photobucket.com/albums/r794/sarrs4/IMG_20140225_140328_zps605f38c6.jpg
Wow thanks a lot sar, this is just what I was looking for.
It looks like you got all the data you need. But if not what koolade said is true. You can cap off all the vac connectons on the front of the intake now as you dont use any of them.
is the check valve under the intake manifold what’s feeding the vacuum system?
edit: apparently not. what is it used for and which direction does it flow?
would be funny if the dipstick wasn’t in…
I wish it were that easy. I’m about to get a fog machine and redneck it up to the vacuum system.
has happened to a couple of people where they’ve had a funky idle (generally a high idle) and came on the forums for help only to find it was the dipstick being out.
happened to me once after I changed my oil and took the car out but when I saw the idle I knew what it was right away having read other folks posts about that.
Welp hooking up the fog machine to the IM via the brake booster line has revealed no vacuum leaks. ??? ??? ???
How much pressure do those professional smoke machines output?
gorilla tape ftw. Yes that is grape koolaid in my expansion tank.
http://i.imgur.com/Us9xNqQ.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/c7ZzG6n.jpg
And that full can or monster on the rain tray.
Not sure across the board what most shops use but I go to about 8 psi. Make sure you have to hook up after any check valves.
I just beat on the car for about 30 minutes and I think it has gotten better. It is barely noticeable at stop lights WITHOUT the A/C on. It is still pretty noticeable with the A/C running though. I’m going to leave this one up to the professionals, hopefully they can find it in a reasonable amount of time.
I broke the OTHER coolant elbow on the expansion tank vent hose. I guess I just feel like breaking shit. I paid a visit to the Harbor Freight Audi parts department to replace it with a better stronger version. A++ highly recommended mod, elbow is built like a tank now.
Vac leaks are tough to track down. One way to seek them out is with starting fluid. You can spray all around the motor and on all the vac lines and see if the RPMs jump when you spray in the area
As for the new lines. Those plastic ones break just looking at them. The new one you made looks great and it will last for ever. After all the work the car still runs and its still an RS4 so thats a big victory
Welp, just got back from the shop and they did not detect any vacuum leaks using a smoke machine.
Well, they detected one at the valve cover vent hose because it was not fully seated, but that did not fix the rough idle. I pushed both sides of that hose into place several times over the last week because it had a tiny visible gap. I’m going to try replacing the o-rings on each side just to see if it helps.
The shop tech stated that the idle fluctuation could be caused by the runner flap removal. No codes are being thrown and it only affects drivability at idle so it might just be something I have to live with.
This is most definitely a thing. In situations like that where you don’t have any actual crankcase pressure, the PCV check valve (under the IM bolted to the valley) may also be stuck, or not sealing. That excess air could also be entering the IM via the oil separator…either way you’ve got a steady stream of un-metered air. The PCV check valve attaches to the intake boot at the back of the motor. Disconnect it and give it a quick blow/suck to see if the check valve is doing what it’s supposed to. It’s all of 5 minutes work to check.
Ether is my favorite fluid right behind brake cleaner ;D
So the aforementioned vacuum diagram can be a bit deceiving. The main vac lines at the firewall are all about the brake booster. The vac lines at the front of the motor are fed via the line at the bottom of the IM (btw, did you put that check valve back in the proper direction?) and are also isolated by the vacuum reservoir & 3 solenoids, so there’s a chance the smoke machine may not have uncovered those.
There’s also a chance you’re chasing your tail, and the issue lies somewhere else, but at least you’re doing the due-diligence of proving out the vac system first. The work you’re doing certainly won’t hurt.