You cant log both sides of the motor at the same time. Its a dual ECU system. So you can only comunicate with one ECU at a time
I could never get block 31 to work for my car. But I never put much effort into finding a workaround either. It works for the r8 though.
Controller 31 is logging single measuring blocks fine for me, but there was no label file for it so advanced measuring blocks was not available.
I contacted ross-tech support and they said there will be a label file for controller 31 in the next version of VCDS and advanced measuring block capabilities in a future version.
Just inspected the SAI pipe where it connects to the block, it looks fine. That connection is thick so I doubt I could have bent it.
Next steps: I’m going to watch fuel trim numbers while I spray carb cleaner around the manifold. I’m thinking the vacuum leak is very small, which is why the smoke test didn’t reveal it.
Question: are the JHM stainless steel IM bolts that come with the spacers reusable?
So my hood strut died from all the recent hood up time. I found one on amazon that’s $24.99 shipped with prime. It fits perfectly. It’s quite a bit stiffer than the OE strut, but I don’t mind that at all.
It’s stiffer than R-Kelly at a high school prom.
Hah. Same thing happened to me. One day it just collapsed while I went to go get some tools. Got lucky I wasn’t under it.
I think it’s the cheapest, easiest part I’ve replaced on this car.
Clutch/flywheel has been ordered!
In the mean time I think I’ve got a bad IM gasket that is causing the vac leak. I will find out this weekend.
Anyone know the outer diameter of the airbox inlet where the flap is?
Does anyone know if or how long the exhaust valve lines should hold vacuum after the car has been run? I just pulled the caps off the lines back there and no air came out.
The car threw codes for SAI insufficient flow last night. I’m not sure why since the JHM tune w/ SAI delete is supposed to account for these. Maybe the dealer didn’t select the option correctly when they flashed it.
001169 - Secondary Air Injection System: Bank 1
P0491 - 002 - Insufficient Flow - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100010
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 135808 km
Time Indication: 0
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 1057 /min
Load: 20.4 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 39.0°C
Temperature: 33.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 980.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.716 V
005137 - Secondary Air Injection System; Bank 2
P1411 - 002 - Insufficient Flow
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100010
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 135808 km
Time Indication: 0
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 2042 /min
Load: 21.2 %
Speed: 27.0 km/h
Temperature: 43.0°C
Temperature: 36.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 990.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.081 V
Ah well I’ve given up on the vacuum leak. R&R’d the intake manifold again and verified all connections/gaskets were good and tight. Verified the rear vacuum lines held vacuum and capped it off anyway.
I’m starting to believe the system is acting this way because the IM flaps are not in place to control the airflow at idle. Obviously there are other people who have removed the IM flaps without these symptoms. Could there be geographic variables that would affect this such as altitude and air density?
My flap rods are installed in the open position. Will the ECU perform certain actions based on the perceived position of the flaps?
My last guess at this point is that the PCV that was recently replaced is bad. I didn’t have the fluctuating idle symptoms prior to removing the IM flaps and SAI system though.
I’m going to do some high rpm logs tonight to see if any problems can be identified.
Why did you remove the flaps? I’ve heard only bad things I. E. Messed up/rough idle.
Pm NY07RS4
Nobody told me the rough idle would be an issue. JHM told me they have never had a customer with flaps removed have rough idle.
It’s possible the shop I had reflash my ECU did not select the flap delete option. Not sure if that would matter or not.

Nobody told me the rough idle would be an issue. JHM told me they have never had a customer with flaps removed have rough idle.
It’s possible the shop I had reflash my ECU did not select the flap delete option. Not sure if that would matter or not.
Maybe I am misremembering but I thought removing those flaps caused te car to run like shit at low rpms. Lumpy idle, stumbles . Lots of guys have removed them and then immediately put them back. IIRC.

Nobody told me the rough idle would be an issue. JHM told me they have never had a customer with flaps removed have rough idle.
It’s possible the shop I had reflash my ECU did not select the flap delete option. Not sure if that would matter or not.
My idle is pretty much rock-solid without flaps…
Just curious, but what’s the serial number of your throttle body? It should be an etched number on the very top. You just need to remove the carbon engine cover and you’ll be able to see it. I have a theory I’m exploring…
[quote=“komseh,post:64,topic:7650”]
You’re not stretching those bolts…definitely re-usable.

Anyone know the outer diameter of the airbox inlet where the flap is?
I used 3" dryer ducting, but had to stretch it a bit to fit around the airbox inlet. I’d go with 3" brake cooling duct if I did it again.

Does anyone know if or how long the exhaust valve lines should hold vacuum after the car has been run? I just pulled the caps off the lines back there and no air came out.
There’s a vacuum reservoir back there, so you should have vacuum… I would continue investigating this.
[quote=“komseh,post:69,topic:7650”]
What’s your header say in vagcom? Should say 4.4 yada yada yada with some stuff at the end…

Just curious, but what’s the serial number of your throttle body? It should be an etched number on the very top. You just need to remove the carbon engine cover and you’ll be able to see it. I have a theory I’m exploring…
TB SN: 03007F0682
I ended up plugging the vacuum line in the rear of the car just to be sure. It was holding vacuum when I unplugged it.
As far as the SAI codes, there was an issue in the tune specific to my coding. JHM has fixed it and I just need to get reflashed.
Did some logging while driving around so theres no full 3rd gear pulls, most are 2nd gear.
Edited version with just the WOT lines: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B77pSnYHr8EEZUNOUlZFMU5fZEU/view?usp=sharing
Full: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B77pSnYHr8EEYWN5VWpJZUg1Yll5ZE1rcUFmN1ZoZGc4X2JJ/view?usp=sharing
Looks like the most timing pulled was 6 degrees. How does this compare to other RS4s?

Did some logging while driving around so theres no full 3rd gear pulls, most are 2nd gear.
Edited version with just the WOT lines: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B77pSnYHr8EEZUNOUlZFMU5fZEU/view?usp=sharing
Full: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B77pSnYHr8EEYWN5VWpJZUg1Yll5ZE1rcUFmN1ZoZGc4X2JJ/view?usp=sharing
Looks like the most timing pulled was 6 degrees. How does this compare to other RS4s?
Pretty normal depending on temperature, mods, fuel, etc.
can you summarize? I know you have this…so I’m really just looking for fuel and temperature when you were logging. And location.
“I immediately purchased a JHM 93 tune and full catless/resonated JHM exhaust.”
Running 93 octane 0% ethanol fuel
Temp was around 90F, dash said 95F
Does perceived flap position as read by the potentiometers matter to the ECU?
I installed my flap shafts so they are flush with the runner walls and the ECU is showing actual position ~50% which would normally trigger a DTC for implausible signal. Closed position is 0% and open is 100%. Actual position and expected position for each bank can be read via blocks 142 and 144.
I’m going to see if I can turn them both to 100% and see if it helps.