That looks great. Think about a DIY for the air box.Karma for you. Your really knocking out the good stuff man grreat work
Installed some studs and 10mm spacers today. I had problems with a set of spacers from ECS that I used on my A4 so I tried to find some of better quality. I found 42 draft designs that CNC machines all of their spacers out of aluminum and makes them hub/wheel centric. They also machine out some unnecessary material to reduce weight.
Shiny:
http://i.imgur.com/8oh1t0f.jpg
I also got a shipment from JHM…
Ohh ohh someone’s going to be a bit more tail happy!
what is it?
Rear LSD 
I think I’ll get it installed Sunday.
Awesome! I think you’re going to be surprised with how much this will improve your cars performance! You definitely won’t be disappointed!
Looking forward to reading your impressions about this!
Just a few notes on my first track day in this car…
Setup was:
stock suspension aside from rear hotchkis sway bar
carbotech xp10 pads on front, street pads on rear
michelin pss 255/30/19 w/ OE wheels
The tires handles the brakes surprisingly well, but they definitely overheated and gummed up the tread. I will not be using PSS at the track again. I’m going to go with bridgestone potenza re-11 on the new track wheels when I get them. Chance for rainy track days is highish in this area so those look like the best option. Any other recommendations on street tires for track days?
The near-stock suspension is pretty impressive for what it is. Bodyroll is endless fun. Can’t wait for coilovers.
The brake pad setup I used caused quite a bit of nose dive heavy hard braking zones. Caused the car to get slightly unsteady even while just going straight. Will be running XP10 up front w/ XP8 in rear next time.
People say JHM’s rotors tend to hot-spot on the track a lot. It’s funny, I’ve hot-spotted a set on the highway using Hawk HPS, but the carbotech XP10s didn’t.
yeah, don’t do it.
[quote=“komseh,post:147,topic:7650”]
Hankook RS-3, Achilles 123S, BFG Rivals, Mich pilot cup, Toyo R888… They’re all street-legal ;D
[quote=“komseh,post:147,topic:7650”]
Stiffer springs will get rid of the brake dive. Stick with the xp10s on stock calipers, anything gnarlier puts you at (even greater) risk of failure. Whenever I talk to people about brakes, just think of the times on track when you need them the most…that’s when they’re most likely to fail. If you’re going to keep pushing, start thinking about Alcons or Stop tech trophies.
Suspension would be a good fix. It will be interesting to hear your thoughts after a suspension upgrade
As for the rotors. The right pads for the right application give the right results. I have never had any issues but I used the right pads as well for the conditions.
Been having random clunking coming from the rear for the last few weeks. Blue apikol bushing turned to mush.
http://i.imgur.com/CdGuhaX.jpg
A bit more infuriating:
A few of the blue Apikol rear diff mounts have melted and fall apart.
I can’t tell from the picture but do you have the old cast housing or the newer billet housing? The problem was more with the older cast housing ones if I remember right.
EDIT: I personally don’t think that the blue Apikol rear diff bushings can take the heat over time from the dual exhaust of a V8 but I could be way out in left field too.
I’m not sure, this diff mount was already installed on the car when I bought it in 2013. The previous owner chose to do that and JHM 380mm front rotors as the only after-market mods.
I think its billet aluminum, but I’ll take a closer look to confirm once I pull it off to replace the bushing. Apikol sells replacement red bushings for $44 shipped.
You may very well be correct about the heat on the blue bushings. Mine failed after a single HPDE.
WOW do you know how old the mount was. That kinda sucks they would make you pay for a replacement considering not only did i t fail it is completly gone.
It’s at least 3 years old, not sure exactly but they only have a 1 year warranty. They don’t intend the blue mount to be used on the track which is exactly what I did and it killed it. I’m just glad they sell replacement bushings - I had been wanting to replace it with a stiffer bushing anyway.
Thread title is looking good lol
Hopefully the replacement is more up to the task.
Certainly the exhaust heat won’t help and neither will the constant friction heat produced from a track day.
So the track wheels are coming along nicely. I got a set of Volk TE37SL in 18x10 +30 offset. They are currently being redrilled so I will have pictures after I get tires mounted up and on the car.
Now I’m looking at getting another set of wheels for the street and selling the OE wheels. I’ve narrowed it down to two forgestar wheels. I think I like the second one more. What do you guys think?
nice
light
strong
solid looking
tough to beat
for the forgestars, the 2 most common things I’ve seen associated with them are
-
they weigh more than Forgestar says (one popular company was going to be a Forgestar dealer and recevied a set of wheels after being told they weigh xx.xx lbs in that particular size/offset. When they arrived they were weighed and they were about 15% heavier than advertised. the company sent them back and never became a dealer
-
they take 3 times the length to be delivered as they say. Ready in 6 weeks? Expect to wait 18. Ready in 10 weeks? expect to wait 30.
Otherwise, they tend to make pretty strong, good looking and fair priced wheels.
An update on my airbox mod:
Since I did the mod I was worried about water being sucked up into the airbox through the hose. I was also worried about the rubber cement not keeping a permanent bond.
We had some heavy rain the other day so I went out and did some WOT pulls. Opened the airbox and there was no dampness on the air filter. Both sides of the port looked good as far as bond/seal. I did notice a few extra specs of dirt in the bottom of the airbox though.
So I got this air intake duct which comes with a screen to help filter out debris: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TPJ7KC
I’ll update once I install it and test it out.
Nice update. the RS4 air box mod is a good mod and works well.