I found this diagram to say what everything is.
I would dernif I switched the wires for #2 and #5
Russ
I would suggest starting a new thread just for this issue if you can post the code that would help us see what your gettting; If you hooked up a wire wrong you would be getting a code for it.
Also if you can take a picture of the front wires. We will be able to look and see if they are wrong. You can load pictures directly to your account on the site. Just click the upper right hand part of the page that says upload.
Where’s the part two? \im wondering how to actual clean off all the carbon. Is the build up in the manifold section you remove or on the valves and ports on the engine block?
The carbon is on the valves in the cylinder heads. There should be more updates in the next few weeks.
Like justincredible said, the buildup is on the valves themselves.
From what little I understand about engineering, this issue is rampant in Audi FSI engines (as well as BMW/Merc, from what I’ve been told). Because FSI is an injection system that injects fuel directly into the cylinder itself, fuel never comes in contact with the “top” of the valve, which is apparently necessary to clean the valves. There are other cars with FSI that don’t suffer this issue, so I’m not actually sure why exactly this happens.
I’ve heard of carbon building up in as little as 5,000 miles that will actually impact performance. It seems the issue was resolved in the later models, and isn’t as bad in cars with forced induction, but definitely still happens. The RS4 guys have it the worst from what I can gather, and I’ve even read some stuff about a class action lawsuit as the buildup isn’t denoted in the scheduled maintenance published by Audi, but inarguably affects performance. Some dealers won’t even acknowledge the issue until your engine throws a code related to it, but there are hundreds of cases that I’ve personally seen people benefiting from doing the clean preemptively.
If you tackle this yourself, I’m far, far from an expert, but do NOT let any carbon fall into the cylinders.
As to how the carbon is actually removed, when I had Audi do mine, they used a solution of some kind to soak the valves and actually had to manually remove a lot of it as well. Might be worth a call/visit to see if they can sell you some or tell you what it is. I doubt it’s very specialized, tons of liquid compounds bond with carbon that shouldn’t present an issue.
Hopefully this helped. This is mostly info I’ve gathered from reading posts on this forum.
this is an issue across all the audi FSI… In the next few weeks. There should be some good carbon information and cleaning information posted. I know there is something in the works
Someone i know that also has an S6 recommended get a Terraclean done as that helps remove the deposits? Has anyone tried that on the Audi engines?
The FSI motor wont be able to use the cleaner for spraying onto the valves as the injector is post valves. The big help with the fuel system cleaner is to help clean the injectors.
This was very helpful for me but as I was doing it I noticed a few differences with the s8. I don’t know why they would have differences but they do…I still need to do the carbon clean but was going in after a oil leak at the oil filter housing.
I know some people were wondering how to get to the oil separator screws. I used a vice grip with the T30. It gave me more then enough room. Just make sure that your grip is super tight so you don’t lose your bit.
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q259/cstarky15/engine%2028_zpsgmojvcbk.png
The left hose in the red circle with the two hoses had coolant in it when I removed it for the manifold. Not sure if this is normal or not but just a heads up to the S8 guys.
Also I had to remove the ground wire that is in the green circle as the wire wasn’t long enough to get over the fuel pump.
There were also 3 colored electrical connectors under the manifold. One was Blue, one was White, and one was Orange. In most of the pictures I’m seeing there are only the Blue and White one.
Why do I have 3?
I bought both gaskets for the filter housing. It appears that only the one that sits inside the V was leaking but figured for an extra $3 why not do the other one too.
The filter housing is attached with 2 M10 triple square bolts and 2 T30 bolts. Once you remove the housing be ready for a bunch of oil to come out as the housing stores a good amount.
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q259/cstarky15/20151130_233939_zps0fzktfni.jpg
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http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q259/cstarky15/20151201_001630_zpsg7i5mgq9.jpg
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You could also loosen the oil filter, pull it up a little bit, wait a half hour or so for the oil to drain down, and then tighten the filter back down to avoid spilling oil all over the place. It would probably go faster if you open the oil filler cap too. Just saying.
The hoses with coolant you can just bypass those. If you got the JHM intake spacers and I would recomend that you do as they make a big difference in both performance and life health of the motor. The spacer kit comes with a bypass for the coolant lines.
The green wire can get tugged on if you dont loop the harnuss on the other side of it. Removing it is probably just easier
as for the 3 connectors. those are for your knock sensors. Again if you have the JHM intake spacers you can just remove the bracket those 3 connectors are on and zip tie the 3 knock sensors down to the fuel rail under the intake. It really makes for a eaiser job in the future if you have to get back in
Always good tips jimmy
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All great info. I will be going back in but it will be spring time before attempting to do that again.
A good time to put in spacers. just before the hot season. Did you inspect the intake at all when you had it off
I did, there was carbon build up for sure. But the limited time and cold weather made me want to just fix the leak and be done.
Do we have an update to this elsewhere with details about the carbon clean or is this still in progress? It would be helpful! Thx!
http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=3950.msg116391#msg116391
http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=4000.0
I might just take the content in both of those threads and make one new thread.
I’m having trouble finding torque specs for the 8 bolts that hold down the air distribution housing. Can’t find them in the Bentley, here or google. For now they are hand tight with a quarter turn. Anyone have any better suggestion?
Just bolt them hand tight carefully… They tend to break easily…
