That is the only fully carbon fiber wheel option out there and they’re about $3,000/wheel which is better than the $4000 they quoted me when I considered buying them 4 years ago. They said they’d weigh 15lbs. I then bought a set of BC Forged 18x9s and they only weighed 17.6lbs. There was no way I was going to spend that much more to save another 2.5lbs per wheel.
$3K a wheel making me think i should hit the gym and lose the weight myself. ;D
LOL! That made my day. No kidding!
heh - still, putting LW rotors and any wheel under 20lbs is saving about 45lbs total per corner. It’d make the S6 feel more like an S4 really. shedding unspring weight it probably one of the biggest overall performance enhancers.
But yeah, I’ve got a search agent on copart looking for a wrecked Shelby gt350r hoping to snag these wheels lol. I’d never, ever pay that much per wheel. Unless I won the lottery. And then it’s really, really iffy.
CF wheels, I’ll probably never buy any of those unless I’m at 8 figures. The rotors, I can’t afford to run through those on track weekends as they would most likely be destroyed by the end of a weekend. Best bang for buck would be steel RS6 rotors, but I’ll probably never switch since the stock system does more than well enough. Main issue is brake fade after a few laps around VIR braking incorrectly (braking hard/short instead of med.hard/longer would prevent the heat buildup that leads to a soft pedal). Last time I was there, I went off at turn 1 once. That was a wake-up call. Need to get my technique much more solid. I’d also forgotten to turn off traction and stability control that session, so that could also be a part of what lead to that. I haven’t been to the track this year, so it’s not like I’m going as often, but I’m probably never going to get into drag racing that much (at least not with the current cars) so the extra rotor weight doesn’t bother me enough yet. I’ll probably stick to the current setup until I’m ballin’ enough to afford the RS6 ceramics.
Someday I hope to supercharge or perhaps if super well-off, get something UGR style done to set some street tire sedan half mile records. For now, I’m just content to have reliability lol.
The JHM LW rotors will really make the car feel light and ready to jump. All that rotational weight loss really shows itself. Being a track car you would want to swap out to a garbage rotor that you would abuse for the day and switch back to the LW rotors for DD use. I have them and I love em. You can really tell the difference.
What’s the typical lifespan on them? Normal intervals of changing brake pads/changing rotors or can it actually last 2 brake pad lifespans?
longer than 2 pads sets I’d think - the other benefit of the LW rotors is that you don’t re-buy the whole thing, only the friction ring which is comparable in cost to “regular” rotors.
Right now I run no mufflers and kept the resonators. I love the sound, had it like this for 8 months now. I like a good raspy engine note tho. I’ve contemplated taking the resonators off too and running cat back straight pipe.
Anybody got videos of anything like that? I’ve tried looking on YouTube but c6 s6 specifics are rare.
I’ve done the reverse in the past and it was more raspy. Full custom exhaust 2.75 inch wth x pipe and no resonators to stock mufflers. I enjoyed it and it was mostly raspy while it warmed up then it mellowed out, you might like it. If you want a nice sound overall plus power do JHM or the like though.
it will need some type of resonator or muffler. When I ran my 3" system with the mufflers removed (no resonators installed) it was markedly slower. Popped the mufflers back on (vband) and it picked right up.
It is also ridiculously loud with no resonators or mufflers at WOT. ridiculous.
Really? Slower? Huh. That just a back pressure thing? I figured that the 4 cats alone would still be plenty of back pressure.
well, i should clarify that I dont have 4 cats anymore 
maybe stock car with no mufflers will run better.
Haha, ok that would make a difference. Yeah I’m just looking to liven the stock system up a little bit while I pad the bank for a JHM setup. Maybe even full headers…maybe 
Thanks for the input.
Yeah that makes sense. duel 3" is huge your going to need back pressure to help the pulse control. You don’t need a lot of back pressure actually you want the very least amount but enough to keep the pulse control in check. If you have the stock mufflers they are a pressure muffler and adding pressure at the very end of the system going from 3" to 2.3" is going to cause quite a hold up. Getting a good chambered muffler would change everything for the better.
Man that’s tough. Too much back pressure with the mufflers on and not enough with them off when your catless and a big exhaust… Choices choices…
Do any of you happen to have a diagram or an actual picture from under the car of the STOCK Audi exhaust system? I do not have access to a hoist and It’s been so long I can’t quite picture the whole system in my head.
It would be appreciated greatly ;D
I think if you look there is a picture in this thread or one of the links. Also I think there might be a picture of what your looking for in A6V8s build thread.
Perfect. I looked around on these forums but didn’t find what I wanted. The one picture in A6V8s thread will work. Thanks Justin 8)
Awesome glad it helped. Any reason for the need for the picture.
I was just trying to get a visual of the resonators and the routing of the exhaust under the mid section of the car. All this talk now has me wondering instead of just riping the resonators out, maybe I should just have a 3" system fabed from the cats back. It’d be a decent amount of work just to gut those and replace with pipe. So If the price is right why not look into a whole system I suppose. It gives me a better idea of the work that would be involved for both without me having to get it on a hoist just to see.