So most of you all know about the manifold issues the S6/S8 V10 experience.
I was super fortunate to buy a car that had a failed manifold, the previous owner had the manny opened, and then lockedwired and tried to glue the flaps to stop them rattling for a few miles to sell it…
So the shop I took it to found this, opened it up and removed the mess - reinstall the manifold gutted but with the flapper motors still in place and working to keep the codes at bay.
How it drove gutted:
I had no miss fires or rough idles, It started normally and drove fairly stock. I did approach everyone and anyone I could about possible tunes to “get around” the flaps being removed. All responses including from this forum were very honest and stated “nope you wont get the performance back” but the car will self tune as good as it could.
From 1000-2000rpm it was sim to stock around town, from 2000-4500 there was a flat spot - this was very noticeable if you applied more than 50% throttle within this range, the car would labor or bog - imagine a civic with the airfilter housing removed and a massive pod filter glued to the end. If you smacked the throttle down within this range the car would cough and bog and not understand what was going one. The induction noise was great but torque was down for sure. From 4500-7000rpm was actually really strong, fun and made even better noise. It felt faster up there than before but as has been proven this is not the case. Power was just peakier. Economy was ok, not hugely different from before, 1 or 2 litres per 100kms ave worse maybe. At this point a new manifold in my home country was $10,000.00 or half what I paid for the car…So I made the D to live with it as it was…
I then had one of the flapper motors at the front of the inlet manny burn out, it was not driving anything within the manifold but it was keeping the ECUs happy. So when that went pop the car went into limp mode, the most aggressive I have ever found. It popped the Cam shaft timing adjuster fuse instantly (well hidden in the engine bay) and would keep doing that unless the cooked motor was unplugged (as it was earthing that system out) this limp mode would struggle to get the car to 60mph. It would drive ok cold but as soon as the car warmed up it was impossible to do anymore than limp back home. If you unplugged the motor the check eng light was on, it drove in a variant of limp mode - or maybe it the cam timing was simply pulling from the get go as the car would drive ok and accelerate ok - but nothing like it used to with a broken manifold. A new flapper motor was $1000.00 here, this was super crap as it was going to drive nothing but would get the car to be back at a reduced power and not have an eng light on… All of this was less than ideal on my car which I had owner for 2 months.
After the research on this forum and trawling the globe for the best deals on manifolds - the US of A was the cheapest. I tried everywhere, Singapore, Germany, wider UK, but JHM was the place to go. With the exchange rate the latest version manny with JHM inlet spacers gaskets etc and shipping came to around $3000.00 my money. Bargain.
post install review on next post