Good idea. I just cleaned the flaps with WD40.
As far as condition here is a snap—the 2 on the left are in the worst condition, the silicone on the others are mostly intact.
Can I fill the gaps with epoxy or should I use something like permatex? Also, am I applying the epoxy directly to the silicone, or to the mounting brackets on the sides?
Houston, we have a problem…
I’m just lining things up and it looks like 2 flaps don’t have full coverage. Even so, for the other 8 flaps it doesn’t look like there is enough strength without the mount supports (don’t have them). Finally, there are the 3 holes for each mount that leak through.
Any suggestions?
I have a lot of these fiber reinforced silicone baking mats I can cut up. Thoughts on cutting these up to give the flaps extra coverage? Will it be enough?
Or plan B is to do something like this. But what material is best?
So this is happening. I decided to go with plan B, aluminum sheet. After testing a couple of thicknesses, i ended up with a 416x135mm sheet of 0.4mm thickness.
I’m epoxying the bottom in place first, then tomorrow I’ll glue the “tongues” to the backplate. I hope I don’t accidentally create a add a strange whistle to my IM…
It works! The car was put together with the modified IM and everything is great.
My mechanic marveled at how smoothly the car was idling, and we can only attribute that to the changes in the IM (the only other changes were new o-rings in a dozen places and a new radiator). I’m also relieved that my hack/mod with the sheet metal did not introduce any new whistling sounds.
I only had time for a short test-drive in highway traffic, but the car does seem to be more responsive off the line. Of course, that may be influenced by my relief to just get the car back after months of chasing oil-leaks.
Great idea on the sheet. If you don’t have all of the parts needed that would probably be the next best idea.
You will now see why we over and over and over. Tell people don’t remove the flaps all together. The idle will be better. Your MPG will be better the around town driving will be better. Now under about 4500 rpm your driving the car on the runners that the engineer team wanted them to be.
I have the flaps removed, and the idle is as good as it can get. Even passed the coin test.
Also, on low load it seems that the flaps is in the short position anyway(?).
It’s just a matter of taste. I get why you would prefer long position but I also understand why some, as myself, prefer the short position.
Driving around the city I just cruise, but when I need to have some fun I put the gear in S and rarely dip under 4200 rpm.
After all we have the Autobahn over here 
Kimovich you’re pretty much in the extreme minority. Almost nobody wants to be on the short runner it kills the low end absolutely won’t idle as good as a real intake that functions or an intake with just the long runner. . Your MPG is effected as well as drive ability. Having the flaps removed by far is absolutely least ideal. Your just willing to deal with it as you can still blast and drive above 4500rpm. The other 99% of us rarely drive above 4500 rpm for more than a few seconds.
You took this graph from the study guide. The intake will only shift to short runner when starting and some isolated conditions and those conditions are basically standing long term or mid term idle.
Either way you slice it. I think its impressive to be able to say. That your able to drive and rarely dip under 4200 rpm. I think your totally not aware of how rare that is over there lol… Given that your able to achieve that. I would totally understand your outlook and would probably do the same thing.
My plan is to join you on the autobahn later this fall. Maybe then, I’ll be ready to spring for a proper IM. Until then, I’m with Justincredible—the only time I get to the upper registers is right after the toll gate where I can floor it.
Btw, Kimovitzh, if the car holds together, we’re gonna do the JHM Ecu/tcu tune together.
Don’t agree, it does take some nm’s, surely, but that it would “totally kill it” isn’t the case. In my opinion based on that I have tried both on my car.
The idle is as good as any new car rock solid and at a stable rpm looking in VCDS.
Only rough idle is with that stupid SAI.
We’ve had this discussion a couple of times and you might have had a bad experience with the short intake at some point, I just don’t see that on my car.
I’ve read* that the US cars have a different stock map than the EUs maybe that could cause the difference in our experience?
*Regarding the software, JHM wrote to me:
“ European cars have different software than north american vehicles.” and “ there are alot of differences between north america and ROW. i am not certain the exact differences.”
Regarding the 4200rpm, that’s when I drive for fun. On the back roads on the country side, with new Bilstein coil overs, or at the Autobahn when we go for holiday in Switzerland or France.
Try to floor it going for the top speed, and see the rpm’s fly away, and where they stay.
And Justin, this is in no way me trying to say that the long version is stupid. In no way.
I’m just saying that some like vanilla ice and others like chocolate. 
Where are you located? 
@Kimovitzh My response to you in part was more joking and having fun. But internet makes that sometimes hard to tell.
I think if you put a functional intake on your car you would more notice the difference. If your intake was damaged for a while it’s always going to be less noticeable when you gut the intake as you already had issues. So that always plays.
Kills is probably an over statement but it really effects the car overall. The comments moxifa mentioned are standard when you have people that go from gutted to fully functional. and from seeing how a car drives with a gutted intake and a functional intake in the same hour as we had several cars in the same spot on the same day at the same time. It was noticeable enough everything from the idle to low and mid end driving. So that and the same responses everytime a gutted intake guy gets a functional intake it’s always something I try to pass on.
At the moment, Malaysia. But the car is getting on a boat soon and taking a cruise to the EU.
@justincredible No doubt about that, and I would love to get a new M labeled manifold.
But seeing that they also can fail after some time has put me a bit off. It’s a lot of money if it just breaks again.
And yeah, the joking flew right by me.
@mixofia Can I ask where your new location will be here in EU?
Hi there.
I’m new here, I couldn’t create a new topic, hope it’s OK, I write here?
I have recently bought an S6.
I have noticed a slight rattle between 1500-2000rpm from the IM.
I decided to take the IM of the car, and do a carbon clean, change all injectors seals, oil housing seals, PCV delete etc.
When I got it of the car, I noticed is was a M model form 10/2011 
Unfortunately a small piece of the rubber is missing on one of the flaps.
Is it something there can be fixed, or should I just leave it, lock them down og remove all the flaps?
Next question, im planning to do a PCV delete, what are the best way to do this?
Thanks
Regards
Torben, Denmark.
Still shaking out the new IM mod. Generally, the engine runs very smooth as I drive like a maniac. But twice now, I got a “random misfire cyl 1 or 2” fault.
The second time was after after a reset and about 40m of driving. While it was running rough, I restarted the engine (at a stop light) and it came back smooth as silk.
Apart from a new radiator and a bunch of o-rings, the only change was the IM hack. Are these possibly air leaks through the flashing, random bits of epoxy breaking off, or ecu adaptations?
Ideas?
@BANG that doesn’t look too bad. That is just the flaps getting dried out from heat cycles and then getting brittle. I don’t think you need to look out or replace anything. This is one of the reasons people suggest getting the JHM intake spacers. The spacers really help keep the heat down inside the intake. That helps stuff like you’re seeing.
As long as the other mounting points look good. I wouldn’t worry about it. check and clean your transition mounts.
While I can’t see the entire intake flaps and bits. From what I can see they all look good.
Also I DEFINITELY would NOT do a PCV delete. Its clear that from the look of your picture here it’s working as your flaps for the most part look fine and it isn’t showing signs of over oil or crud. Clean the PCV system and reinstall.
Small misfires here and there are possible at anytime. If you have a vag com. Post the code data that will give a better idea on why there are misfires.
Thank you for the reply
I have checked all the flaps, the rubber seems ok.
I have been considering buying JHM spacers, maybe I do that on a later point!
On the picture, the intake has got a mild clean, please check the new picture below.
This is right after disassembly.
About the PCV system, wouldnt it be better to mount an oil catch can?
Or is it best, just clean the system and reinstall it, as you write?
I will do a heater bypass on the IM adapter, or is it also best to leave stock?
I will upload another picture of the IM and carbon clean.
BTW: After carbon clean, do you put back the spacers?
Thanks.
I wouldn’t put the port spacers back in. They just end up getting majorly clogged with carbon and lead to bigger chances of carbon chunks braking off and falling into the cylinders.
The PCV system has an oil separator. catch cans tend to be largely ineffective especially when compared to a properly working oil separator and PCV system. When you look at all of the carbon build up that is a sign of years and years of non cleaning.
If you can swing it the JHM intake spacers really help with carbon… intake temps and retention of power.
throttle body bypass is also very helpful. .
