Intermininet Engine & SPC Light

A6 All/ S6 All
#1

I’ve now had this happen twice and haven’t tried again today.
First day, just the engine light right after start. Later that day starting up no lights, then suddenly taking off from a stop light just the EPC comes on with a little bit of noticeable power loss. Runs great, sound good.

My scanner isn’t that great, but has helped in the past on other cars - no codes found. Sounds like I need to break down and buy from Ross Tech. Any other suggestions? Guessing accelerator module since the gas has always been really touchy and at times if not careful, really jerky … ? I just swapped my start button for a new style button since the plastic was broken: https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-C6_S6--V10_5.2L/ES394056/ - could this have somehow caused a voltage issue? I really don’t think so, but nothing would surprise me.

#2

The light was solid not blinking… The solid light can mean comunication issues or its a sign the car is in limp mode. But yes unless you have vag com your not going to be able to get large amounts of data. The good think about vag com is it will give you freeze frame data and tell you what RPM speed and load the faults came on at.

The button wont cause you to have any issues. If it was bad the car wouldnt have started. Did you take any pictures of what kind of job it is to put in that button. I have a local guy who wants to change his button as well but I dont know how big of a job it is.

Also on the throttle I drove a local S6 that has a throttle like you mentioned. It will kinda make the car buck and it almost seems like the throttle will take off more than your asking at times. Is this the same thing your getting.

#3

Similar symptoms happened to me a while back, except that in my case there was extreme power loss over 4k rpm. It ended up being an issue with the high-pressure fuel pumps. But if you’re not really experiencing power loss then that’s not likely the problem. So I’m not sure how much help that was lol

#4

Hey guys, thanks again for the thoughtful replies ( man, I need to get my post count up so I can edit my typos - “Intermittent” - !! )

It’s confirmed that it’s a constant engine light and then when you get on it, the EPC comes on solid with a decrease of power because of limp mode I’m guessing/hoping. When I bought the car there was a fuel rail leak which was repaired and included new pumps - all covered work. Scott - I did see your post about the pumps and also noticed your note about the new pumps replacing the old b/c of a possible defect; I’m not sure which part # I have, but what I did have after the work was a ton of white powder “leak detection” spray everywhere - I’m still cleaning this up. It was hard to see after dropping off a immaculate engine bay There was a bad smell of fuel then, but the symptoms are similar other than no smell.

I did get my manual, but really need a scanner. I was reading about testing the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor. I might check the voltage levels, but will probably drive it back to the dealer that did the work tomorrow/tuesday and use their scanner.

The new start button looks great; took about 10 minutes to install. Glad to post photos later!

#5

Get some photos of the new starter button install.

As for the car issues you can totally check those things with a vag com. If thats any motivation for you to get one. You can do a throttle body adaption test and several output tests. It also gives freeze frame data that can be very helpful

#6

I created a new thread (http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=4124.0) and saved the photos out three times now; current size is less than 18.8 KB and they’re very small. I can’t attached the photos however - not even one, says my folder is full - can you help?

#7

load them using this link. It links them directily to the site.

http://audirevolution.net/image_uploader.php

#8

Well, finally got codes today. Looked up the codes in the manual and the bullets below are what I found. Any thoughts?

P0087 Fuel Rail/System Pressure - Too Low

  • fuel injectors, checking
  • fuel pressure and residual pressure before high pressure pump, checking
  • fuel pressure sensor G247, checking
  • fuel pump, checking delivery quantity
  • low fuel pressure sensor G410

P2293 Fuel Pressure Regulator 2 Performance

  • check fuel pressure sensor G247 (remove manifold?)

I looked up the procedures and it looks like the manifold might have to be removed to test the fuel pressure sensor G247. Any idea if that is true? Looks like the low fuel sensor is easy to test.

– I tried the image uploader and can’t get past the add tags page - seriously spent time trying to upload trying various methods and no dice – and I’m suppose to be a tech guy… ???

#9

I’m an IT guy and I cant get it to work either… I host my images at imgur.com and call it a day, you don’t need to have them hosted here to post them here

#10

I use tapatalk on mobile and their image loader works great. Otherwise imgur.com is the way to go

#11

If you got to the tag part that means you loaded the pictures and you can see them now your just adding the tags. If any of your pictures didnt load once you get to the tag part you will see that. If a picture didnt load it probably needs to be resized smaller or there were to many ___—;, or whatever in the picture name. Once you load them and get to the tag part. Just make one name for all 3 options and cut and paste. If it say you need to space the words just reduce the name. I dont use more then 3 words to describe any pic and it works fine. Its a really neat feature and its helpful to me when I used it.

Back to you and your car.

Are these vag codes or are you still waiting for a vag com. With vag com you can log the low pressure sensor and rail pressure to help work out what is going on. Also vag com will give you freeze frame data that will let you know when the faults happen its very helpful for working out the issues.

If not we can still help. We will just have you go the long way about it

#12

Hey Justin -
Finally got the start button posted. Thx.

The story continues with these codes so help would be appreciated!

After a 40 min drive the engine light just went off. It now appears that the SPC light codes on at random and very infrequent times. Haven’t been able to pull codes again with the SPC light only, but have noticed that the car has always been a bit jumpy - esp in sport mode - very small foot pedal change and at times jerky and jarring - not seemingly normal and not present at all in manual mode.

I also did end up seeing a right rear brake light error just once in the past month - i didn’t replace the right rear housing like the left.

With that info… think it could be the accel pedal sensor? Cheers for your thoughts!

#13

Sounds like a fuel issue if the car is jerky. If the light went off that just means that the limit has been reset. See if it comes back on in a few days. If you have fuel codes in the past you really want to be careful . If the light comes back on and the car is still jerky you really need to scan the car. You can go to most auto parts stores and get a scan. or I would really suggest looking into a rosstech vag com cable. It gives you tons of data on faults that are going to help save you money over time when you are trying to track things down.