Irish 07 S6 maint/upgrade thread

A6 All/ S6 All
#1

Probably a good idea to keep all th updates and fixes in one thread for my car. SO i have the car since Nov 2015, picked it up from a work colleague with 61500 miles.

Since i have it has gotten the following:
Oil and filter changes
Passenger side front door lock
Thermostat housing seal replaced and coolant replaced
New K&N filters
Cleaned MAF’s.
full led rear lights
Rear window tints
Re-fitted milltek resonators

I had it on the local dyno for the fun of it and she made 352@flywheel. It was running on 95 ron, where these EU models should be on 98 ron, so it was obviously pulling power a bit. I have been using 100ml of NF Octane booster the last few months and it helps a lot

So whats next on the list of maintenance(currently at 67k~):
Carbon build up check/clean if needed(last checked at 48k, 2013)
Intake manifold spacers
New rears rotors and pads
Inspect front suspension bushings etc
Spark plug change?(last done 48k, 2013)
Wheel refurbish
New tires
Fuel filter change
Remove Milltek resonators

One small issue this car had with previous owner was intermittent o2 sensor fault, which i believe requires engine out to replace this sensor, so he had the post cat 02 system mapped out. Has anybody had similar done? Do some of the o2 sensors require engine out to change?

I think there is two of these cars on this small emerald isle so its hard to find any shops that have much experience working on the v10 which doesnt help matters. Audi dealers wanted 560 euro for an expert service alone! I did it myself since for about 1/5 of that price.

I also still have some noisey compressor/aircon sound still that appears to be very random.

Ill pull some updated vcds codes soon and see how its looking. Anything else i should be looking at on this kind of mileage?

#2

Nice lower mile example, seems to be in decent condition. These cars have soul, though they do require some maintenance, it’s worth it tho!!

#3

I would add to that, maybe replace the coil packs since they so frequently cause problems and aren’t too expensive, also the fuel filter, and at the very least take a look at the fuel injectors. Someone here mentioned before that you can send them (somewhere) to have them flow tested to see if any of them need replacing. Take a look at the intake manifold during the carbon clean to make sure it’s it good shape, that’s a frequent point of failure. I’ve also heard about an O2 sensor requiring an engine drop to reach it, but I don’t know for sure, that might only be true for the S8.

#4

Great idea to start a thread. Its a great place to keep track of your car and to really help others help you if you have a question

Maintanence can be expensive if you let the car go too long between checkups and its best to do little things along the way. It makes a big impact over time.

At that mileage check your

Acc belt.
Fuel filter is good
Coil packs like C.scott said
Run a good injector cleaner through the tank
Inspect the intake on removal
The plugs should be fine
Check the mounts for cracks
Check the valve covers for oil leaks
Check the PCV system. pull it off and clean it . A clogged PCV system can cause big headaches when it comes to leaking gaskets for the valve covers oil pan and even front crank seal.

As for the 02s they do requite some work. You have 8 total 02 sensors…only I believe 2 require you to pull the motor.
Getting the 02s coded out is a terrible terrible idea. I know you didnt get them coded out they were already that way but you might want to look at getting that undone.

You have each side of the motor that had 02 sensors that look at cylinders 123 and then 45 on each side and you have 1 ox sensor to read cylinders 123 and another ox sensor to read 45 on each side of the motor. If you turn off that sensor or chances are he just turned off the code and not actually the sensor you wont know how the car is running and it can and will over time hurt the motor. This isnt a IF thing this is a real thing. Your car runs off the 02 feedback thats how it adjusts the fuel so you dont do long term damage.

Now I used to run a dyno for years and I will tell you that no dyno is going to read the same but if your car made 350 to the FLYWHEEL thats very low. Your car should be making that much to the WHEELS. When you look at others dyno numbers they are all about the same. So thats something to think about and possibly a issue thats related to having a coded out 02. If the car thinks there is an issue with the 02 the car will go into limp mode. If your car has always been in limp mode since you owned it you would never know.

If you get a chance see what vag codes you have and feel free to post them here.

#5

Check the mounts for cracks - i presume you mean engine mounts?
Coilpacks - 5 were replaced at about 50k
Throttle body - RH throttle body was replaced due to worn contacts in the motor section

Check the PCV system - thats the small thigs beside the RH throttle body? That was replaced(079103464d) at arounf 60 miles

Im definitely not a fan have getting the 02 errors coded out, i have asked previous owner for ore info and also dropped a mail to the tuner that did this to see why it was done exactly, and can it be reverted to stock

So top of my list is probably investigate for carbon build up. Whats the easiest way to investigate this? Remove the chamber that both throttle bodies connect to and stick a scope down that way?

Also when intake manifold is removed, how do you inspect that for damage? Does it come apart easily? It looks like the kind of manifold thats not supposed to come apart and go back together easily!

I regards to the dyno run, i presumed that was down to using lower spec fuel and probably the engine being heat soaked. As we all know it suffers form this and you can really notice it in the performance when it happens.

so the mission is to get the car performing like it did when it was a new car, and overcome its few design flaws where applicable to help keep the power consistent

Short new clip of the milltek with resonators in, still sounds good, although somewhat muted now:

https://goo.gl/photos/6cpKmyVSzTbfSTXL9

#6

buddy boy yes both motor and transmission mounts

The PCV and oil seperator is the big line and the box looking thing on the back of the intake maniflold. The one line goes from the valve cover over to the other side.

Seriously good idea looking into tthe 02s. That is a terrible idea. On these cars the 02s are very important. You can get put back to stock that shouldnt be too hard.

To really look for carbon you need to remove the intake manifold. you wont be able to get a inspection camera around the runners into the cylinder heads

The manifold isnt really meant to come apart. but the only way you can really check the flap and all the components is to take off the top half of the intake. You can get an inspection camera in to the intake but I think you will not be able to see everything very well. you might be able to see several of the flaps but it might be hard to look at the linkage

On the dyno these cars do run hot and using low grade gas isnt going to help. But the cars make 435 at the flywheel. so to loose almost 100 crank hp. I dont think thats going to be from just bad gas and the car being hot. but I think if it is something else thats hurting the power your going to fix it with the maintenance

#7

PCV etc has been replaced recently so thats one less thing to worry about.

In regards to the 02s, the tuner got back to me saying:" All I did was change the cat check switch .If I remember correctly , left main cat is gone"

I will need to look into the manifold disassembly. I dont really see a good “how to” on that. I definitely think prior to pulling the manifold, i should order up the intake spacers and fresh gaskets at least, even if i dont have the balls/patience to do the carbon clean myself! I guess once you get the manifold off once it gets easier every time! I would hate to imagine the price of an intake manifold over here, probably 2.5k+

#8

Wait I’m confused, one of your cats is gone on the left side? How about the right?

#9

Yes thats my understanding, no mention of the right being problematic. Maybe the cat is not gone but was causing it to throw intermittent codes about the cat effieciency

#10

Buddyboy I dont want to sound too pushy but all of what your saying right now is not good. You really want to find out exactly whats going on. with the cat and 02. There could be some reall issues for you down the road or even cuurrently. Chances are it might be nothing but again turning off a CEL on a stock car is never a good thing.

I just down want you to get burned or be in a possible bad siuation. Again to me your dyno reading seems very low add that with the turned off CEL and possibly the car missing the cat on one side of the motor but not the other or even just turning off a bad 02. Its kinda a bad thing.

#11

Exactly!!

#12

ok so after doing a bit more research it seems like the problem was the cat on bank 3 after a chat with previous owner

the post cat O2 sensors are only used to test for cat efficiency, and throw a code when they are less than 94% efficient - iirc that cat was running around 92/3% when heat soaked in lots and lots of stop start driving

So the post cat 02 sensor cat check for bank 3 was disabled. From what i can find to replace the cat on bank 3 its an engine out job, which wold cost me probably half he price of the car to get done over here!

So i was in touch with the tuner and he said that he will need to do a flash update to undo the cat error switch, i just need to send him a picture of the two ecus so he can get the hardware numbers to prepare the flash.

i think with the carbon clean an IM spacers and other maintenance items the car wont heat soask as much so hopefully the original CEL no longer occurs? Let see how it goes

I got my IM spacers and gaskets today in the post from JHM, and have a new set of spark plugs.

My girlfriend will be away in mid-september for a month so ill have some quality time to spend with the car and get some maint crossed off the list

I just need to look into the coolant heater bypass mod as i got that too, and order u some valve cover gaskets and oil filter adapter seals

I also went back to non-resonated on the Milltek, sounds sooooo much better, ill be leaving it like this from now, so it can be properly heard!

I should be collecting my freshly refurbished wheels and tires tomorrow

#13

Ran a scan today as i knew i would have the TPMS faults since i had the wheels off for refurbishing. Only other error showing was below, anyone have any idea what that relates to?:

Address 07: Control Head Labels: 4F0-910-7xx-07-H.clb
Part No SW: 4F1 910 732 D HW: 4E0 035 729
Component: Interfacebox H43 5570
Revision: 00000000 Serial number: 350AN077753517
Coding: 0010002
Shop #: WSC 02335 785 00200
VCID: 254BF778EC241D6AF3-8070

Subsystem 1 - Part No: 4F0 910 609 E
Component: Bedienteil MMIC6H01 0060

Subsystem 2 - Serial number: 00000000648905

Subsystem 3 - Serial number: 0125.01.070000000100011056ÿ

Subsystem 4 - Serial number: 011056ÿ

1 Fault Found:
00003 - Control Module
005 - No or Incorrect Basic Setting / Adaptation
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100101
Fault Priority: 5
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 162
Mileage: 105537 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2016.04.06
Time: 21:58:46

#14

It looks like thats a re occuring code. But not too often. If you clear the code see how long before it comes back . Did you see what module section that came from. I think its from the MMI but Im not sure. dosent look like anything serious,

As for the 02 and cat issue on the car. It is best you just get the car flashed back to stock. This way you can get a real idea on whats going on with the car and not some story that just dosent make sense. There is a good chance that the last owner of the car didnt do any of the work himself and that there could actually be something much bigger going on

#15

Its module 07 according to the log

07-Control Head – Status: Malfunction 0010

I have cleared the codes so ill scan again in a week or so

i just need to locate the ecu’s and take a picture of the serial numbers to send to the tuner. I presume its ecu out job to re-flash them back to stock

Previous owner was pretty good with maintenance and DIY servicing and replacing things when needed. It seems to be a common thing this neck of the woods to do among the rs4 and rs6 boys. I’ll get it back to stock and go from there.

Has anyone on here replaced any of the stock cats?

#16

You shouldnt have to pull the ECUs out to flash back to stock. Also the picture of the ECUs wont tell you the exact box code flashed into the ECU almost every car has atleast one dealer update flash so the box code on the ECU wont nessessarly be the code in the ECU. You can pull up the ECU information in Vag com just like you can pull up codes the ECU box id is in the 01 module for motor.

If you can post your motor data from vag com just like you did the one for the head control I can tell you what box code you have

#17

Cool thanks for the info ill grab that info off my windows laptop when i get home and post it here

#18

this is the last scan i did: is this the correct info you mean?

[quote]Thursday,01,September,2016,18:32:48:50459
VCDS – Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator Running on Windows 10 x64
VCDS Version: 16.8.0.3 (x64)
Data version: 20160803 DS255
www.Ross-Tech.com

VIN: WAUZZZ4F87N116217 License Plate: 07G5032
Mileage: 110940km-68934mi Repair Order:

Chassis Type: 4F (4F0)
Scan: 01 02 03 05 07 08 09 0E 11 31 15 16 17 19 37 42 46 47 4F 52
53 55 56 61 62 65 72 77

VIN: WAUZZZ4F87N116217 Mileage: 110940km-68934miles

00-Steering Angle Sensor – Status: OK 0000
01-Engine – Status: OK 0000
02-Auto Trans – Status: OK 0000
03-ABS Brakes – Status: OK 0000
05-Acc/Start Auth. – Status: OK 0000
07-Control Head – Status: Malfunction 0010
08-Auto HVAC – Status: OK 0000
09-Cent. Elect. – Status: OK 0000
0E-Media Player 1 – Status: OK 0000
11-Engine II – Status: OK 0000
31-Engine other – Status: OK 0000
15-Airbags – Status: OK 0000
16-Steering wheel – Status: OK 0000
17-Instruments – Status: OK 0000
19-CAN Gateway – Status: OK 0000
25-Immobilizer – Status: OK 0000
37-Navigation – Status: OK 0000
42-Door Elect, Driver – Status: OK 0000
46-Central Conv. – Status: OK 0000
47-Sound System – Status: OK 0000
4F-Centr. Electr. II – Status: OK 0000
52-Door Elect, Pass. – Status: OK 0000
53-Parking Brake – Status: OK 0000
55-Headlight Range – Status: OK 0000
56-Radio – Status: OK 0000
61-Battery Regul. – Status: OK 0000
62-Door, Rear Left – Status: OK 0000
65-Tire Pressure – Status: Malfunction 0010
72-Door, Rear Right – Status: OK 0000
77-Telephone – Status: OK 0000

Address 01: Engine Labels: Redir Fail!
Part No SW: 4F1 910 552 C HW: 4F1 907 552
Component: 5.2L V10/4V FSI ª0060
Revision: 59H15— Serial number:
Coding: 01050003190F0160
Shop #: WSC 00999 444 64523
VCID: 244DEA7CE71EE462E4-8070

No fault code found.
Readiness: 0000 0000

[/quote]

#19

yes this is all the data anyone would need to know about your ecu

Address 01: Engine
Part No SW: 4F1 910 552 C HW: 4F1 907 552
Component: 5.2L V10/4V FSI 0060

#20

Ok cool i sent that info on to the tuner guy. While doing another scan i noticed a new fault code:

1 Fault Found:
00438 - Fuel Supply Sensor 2 (G169)

Another one to keep an eye on m and investigate :frowning: