He’s asking about reliability. Would somebody please chime in on thoughts and/or opinions? Is the build going to be strong enough for future upgrades? If I’m not satisfied with the build, I’ll upgrade to GTs or Tials. So I want to make sure I’m not preventing myself from serious power later on. I don’t know what the delay has been since I dropped by car off on April 7th but it sounds like they’re about ready to dedicate some of their time to my car.
If you have a bad builder do the motor it will not be reliable, a good builder will have a decent one, although generally stock motors are the most reliable (just a hone with rods)
Thanks, Clint. I’m doing the rebuild because it’s not much more expensive if I’m already having rods done. Plus, it’ll be nice to have a “new” engine. I’ll do the transmission at a later date. Otherwise, if the stroke and bore can give me nearly 50 horsepower, reliably, than I’m all for it.
What are you concerns with reliability?
Oil consumption?
I’d get those pistons coated also. What cr are you planing?
You can throw quite a bit of power at these cars with just rods. I’ve heard the pistons should be replaced at 600+whp but I have yet to see a car close to that runing stock pistons, so i can’t say.
If you are looking for max power, headwork will be something to consider.
While you are at it why not get some arp main bolts as well… you need to replace them anyhow.
Also, I thought you already had tial 770’s. If not then what turbos are you putting on the car?
I’d avoid the ARP main studs if you don’t want to clearance your oil pan & oil pump (ask me how I know; if I could go back I’d just do stock main bolts over the ARP). And our 4-bolt mains are pretty freaking stout from the factory anywho (can’t say I’ve ever heard of a problem relating to the main bolts/hardware). Also, for the headbolts, buy them direct from Eurospec to save a couple of bucks.
Like I said in your AZ thread, more research, less new threads. Almost everything you ask has been covered in depth multiple times (especially the 3.0l stuff relatively recently).
really? This sucks (for me). Here i thought i was beng all gung ho macho with my studs.
How much were they off by, and did you have the short/long studs, or just the long studs?
I have the uneven main bolts, and I was explicitly told by Max at 034 that the uneven ones don’t require any clearancing, but that the even length set does. Obviously that was not at all true and it cost me like 10 additional hours of time wasted and a $130 oil pump. The ARP’s are cheap (compared to the raceware stuff) though, so if you don’t mind clearancing (and now you know about it beforehand), they can be a good alternative. I’d probably avoid 034 for that though, as the exact ARP bolts can be had for cheaper elsewhere (I’ve seen a link posted, but forgot where).
I’m taking the easy way out and rebuilding the 2.7 as it is with 034Motorsports parts. I’ll buy another block and go crazy with that one. I’ll have more information on the turbos soon. I’m not using the Tial 770Rs at this time. I’ll use them on the other block if I ever get around to it or feel the need for more power.
Might as well just ignore this as its not even remotly true. While the riods will go ebfore the pistons in most caese the pistons are not far behind. This has been shown to be true over and over with the several 2.7 guys that have tried this.
Glad to see you back Chris! What cars have needed pistons? Just curious and yes usually when you bore the engine is gets less reliable because human factors are involved
Which specific cars (other than Dshot’s AMD car that was supposedly pushing 40psi through 770’s) have you seen/heard of stock pistons ever failing in, due strictly to too much power (and not due to a lean or hot tune)?
I can’t see the link so I can’t really tell you if its worth getting or not. If I’ve gathered this correctly The “kit” isn’t coming with new pistons? If that’s the case then pass. While people can debate if the stock piston is good enough for X or Y hp. the fact that the piston wasn’t designed for the environment your putting it in.
The bigger part I would look to add to this conversation is. Are the parts I’m using (pistons/bolts/ETC.) Designed for this environment I’m going to be putting the components in. One example is the pistons. The conversation shouldn’t be if they can hold up to the power, it should be will they provide the support needed in the environment things such as oil pressure and relief.
Same goes for the ARP bolts. There isn’t a need to add more of something you don’t need.
I can’t speak for what cars chrisk is speaking of. I have seen this on more then one occasion. Still I do suggest that we look more to the fact that the stock pistons are not just not breaking but there not properly supporting the requirements of the piston functions at these increased hp levels
