If being the fastest at either track (road or drag) is your sole objective you’ve picked the wrong platform all the way around-this whole bringing up mustangs and other “muscle car” options is kinda silly as there are always less expensive ways to go fast than the B8/8.5.
It’s 2009 technology so you have to compare it to cars from that year. The B8 S4 is a bargain basement R8. Below is a motor trend video of the R8 doing a 1:40.9 lap at Laguna with a pro driver. You can make your S4 do that for a lot less than the cost of a used R8. In other words, you can make a 7 second improvement in the car with the tuning material I covered on this board (and the other boards I was banned from).
Good to see westwest888 fills the thread with garbage again. Irrelevant comparisons, retarded performance metrics and acting like his horrible driving is a benchmark anyone gives and shit about.
It’s also good to see that the user rating buttons still work.
The APR dealer that I go to the track with made his own tune for the B8. He must not have gotten the memo about the consensus.
Can any of the keyboard racers find an Internet video of a GIAC or APR tuned S4 putting down a respectable Laguna lap of 1:43 or better? Again, it’s not like if I APR flash my car between sessions I’m going to get a better time. If you think so, prove that someone has done it.
I agree 100%. A boiling motor is going to have similar performance with any blue chip tune. A road course HPDE session is basically doing the 1/4 mile 70 times in 18 minutes.
Some participants on this board make a grave error in fixating on the maximum performance extracted from a cold motor, instead of the average performance of the motor after an endurance run. Until more people contribute that type of data, we won’t know what the “Best Tune” is. Until then, people like Saki will act as tools of the marketing department - contriving scenarios in which the B8 can briefly deviate from its normal operating performance.
This is the problem with the shit you say, it all made up in your head. I have never run down the dragstrip on a cold, or not warmed up engine. I, like many other of the top 1/4 et guys have found that hot lapping has produced better and better times with each run. So much for your ignorant comment.
Yep, I agree. A Giac or APR car would do better than a Revo car around a road course just like in a 1/4 mile. You buy a tune to get better acceleration period.
I would look into what 034 Motorsport is willing to offer. Didn’t they beat the fastest stage 1 time recently and they are working on a stage 2 tune?
I’ll watch out for those GIAC and APR cars. They haven’t been a problem yet. Maybe it’s a problem that doesn’t need to be solved because no one is in range of a magazine time.
Are the GIAC and APR cars running cup 2 tires? 10k brembo brakes? Bucket seats? Are the drives any good?
On one hand you say that an apr/giac car should be just as fast in your car and then you say revo is better because no other b8 is as fast as you. Makes no sense lol
It’s nothern california. People show up with all sorts of expensive crap. Beginners roll up with Trofeo R’s, which is a far stickier tire. They get a StopTech trophy kit for their first track day. It’s madness.
At every Audi track day there’s an APR dealer with customer cars, a REVO dealer with customer cars, and usually some GIAC cars from SoCal. Then there’s the local shops who are experimenting with their own beta maps, and some of those are actually dealers of the major tunes. There’s no consensus. People’s lap times are 20 seconds apart.
It’s a pretty binary outcome. Either your tune is having a problem that requires support, or it’s not. I tend to prefer something that manages heat (read: blows off some boost). That might not work for the 1/4 mile guys because they only get to drive for 12 seconds every 30 minutes and can’t blow it (literally). Again, I have 70+ opportunities to heat soak the blower with what I use the car for.
To solve this take the same car, same driver same track, each month use a different tune, try all three normal ones, d one custom one and then give feedback forget the rest of this BS
Imo a custom tune for your goals is probably the best assuming the tuner knows what they are doing and the car is relatively healthy powertrain wise…
To solve this take the same car, same driver same track, each month use a different tune, try all three normal ones, d one custom one and then give feedback forget the rest of this BS
Imo a custom tune for your goals is probably the best assuming the tuner knows what they are doing and the car is relatively healthy powertrain wise…
If you think software can overcome physics, then you’re more delusional than the great westwest. 20 minutes of road course is not a problem you can code your way out of. All the ECU is doing at that point is looking for thermal capacity to shove heat into, or metering you until a cold spot shows up.
Even if it was possible to port flash all of this stuff and verify the new tune loaded properly, someone would accuse me of not knowing how to drive the new tune. I’d also need the track rented just for me in the morning, because times fall off a little bit mid afternoon. So getting the results might cost $10,000. No one would change their tune if I presented the results. And the OP is going to decide based on what a B7 loudmouth from Toronto says.
Is there a general consensus on which is better iPhone or Android?